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If I use ramps do I need to use a jack to raise the rear end and level it to maximize extraction?
I store on 10” race ramps wheel cribs. So it makes for a simple slide under the car. However, yes, the general rule of thumb is the more level, the better. You could also just use a jack to undo the plugs, then lower it to drain.
we can split hairs forever, but the bottom line is, it’s an oil change, not brain surgery. All my other cars get “hot” oil changes. My stored cars get cold ones. Take off the plugs and let it drip a few hours until nothing comes out anymore. Refill with 0/40 esp (in my case), 5/30 in most other cases. No matter what your preferred method, doing it yourself sure beats the hell out of having the “oil change tech”
whatever the f… that means, do it. Not sure what degree qualifies you as an “oil change tech”,
but the dealerships love those important sounding designations.
Depends. Sometimes it isn't worth it to do it yourself. I had a drain valve in my diesel so it makes draining easier and they don't over torque the nut. Generally I watch them and avoid the ghetto area shops.
You are not a tech and are not paid as one. That's the qualification.
People love it. Remember, a lot of phrases are designed for the listener. Instead of saying you are handicapped, we call it "challenged". Instead of illegal alien we call it "undocumented immigrant". We use words to make things sound better not for the person who says it but for the idiots who listen to it.
I checked this and found with Race Ramps the difference is just a few ounces. Level is technically best, but the difference is small.
Try raising the rear after the oil stops draining and see what you find.
i always change oil when it is HOT. Been doing that for 40+ years and see no reason to switch up my habits now.
I use Race Ramps and my driveway has a very slight incline. That means my C7 is level when the oil drains. Oddly, the Stingray's plug is on the left side of the oil pan. My other cars have the drain plug facing towards the rear........meaning a fast & complete evacuation of all the oil in the pan.
P.S. My Stingray is NOT equipped with the dry sump oil system.
Maybe hot oil changes are the only practical way to do it at a dealership or at home. I mean, if you have park on a lift tonight and DIY in the am, sure you can do cold or you jack it up in the garage, loosen the bolt and lower it and drain it. If you drive it up the ramp, it gets warm. Oil change place? See above. We just did a 0W40 drain today without warming it up and it didn't flow that badly. So maybe if you are a 15W oil, it might make a difference in the winter and be easier hot but a 0W or 5W doesn't seem that bad cold.
Since we’re talking about jacking up the rear, figured I’d post this to help. Forum member Jerry (I believe he’s still here, but moved on to a c8) posted the safe jacking locations for the C7 several years back (thank you Jerry). Also, here’s a 10” piece of 2x4 I sandwiched between 2 thick pieces of rubber about 6 years ago and been using it on all my cars since then. You can spend about $200 to get a crossmember jack adapter, or save $195 of that and make yourself one of these to lift the rear end via the crossmember.
I no longer change my own oil so by the time I get to the place I use it's at operating temps. When I did it myself I did it both ways and didn't really see any difference except how quickly it drained.
I would let the oil warm up before draining. The fluid has molecules and chemicals that are suspended and it's supposed to be a much better direction to go instead of just draining it cold.
One thing to consider. When you warm the engine, there is still oil up inside the engine. If it sits for a while until it cools, more oil has drained into the pan.
Some posters here talked about how quickly the oil warms up, but on our 2017 Z51 it takes at least 5 miles of driving before my oil temp is up to 175 (recommended temp for checking).
I really do understand the method of heating the oil before an oil change, I do this when I change oil. I am trying to understand where the oil will be trapped if it is allowed to cool in a standard oil pan.
EDIT:
And how much oil is really left behind.
I would let the oil warm up before draining. The fluid has molecules and chemicals that are suspended and it's supposed to be a much better direction to go instead of just draining it cold.
I move my other car out of the garage so I have a lot of space for the jacks or whatever. By the time I back the car out of the garage and move it to the center of the garage, I think it has stirred up whatever might have settled on the bottom of the pan if it hasn't already been trapped by the filter. I'm driving it every day I can so it doesn't sit for a couple of weeks. I doubt it has that much stuff that is settled at the bottom of the pan.
One thing to consider. When you warm the engine, there is still oil up inside the engine. If it sits for a while until it cools, more oil has drained into the pan.
How much more? I doubt it is significantly more. Is that going to be a problem? I don't think so. It's not like you have to get every drop of oil out or the engine will break down faster. Only way to do that is to strip the engine down completely and drain any lifters.
Some posters here talked about how quickly the oil warms up, but on our 2017 Z51 it takes at least 5 miles of driving before my oil temp is up to 175 (recommended temp for checking).
Checking, yes. I don't recall a recommended draining temp. If this is 15W50, I'd probably say it doesn't hurt and it speeds it up but 0 or 5 weight probably won't make the difference.
