Explain this please.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 616
From: Blacksburg Va
I don't understand. If you torque stock parts to say 80# (pulling a # out of the air for discussion) and then if you install ARP bolts and torque them to 80# how would that affect 'clamping force'?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 116
Likes: 14
From: PSL FL.
Hey Bud
Something like that but i believe the tourqe value is higher than the factory torque to yield the stretch is different. But just look into threads about using arp fasteners vs factory then you will see. You know theres a guy on here who knows his stuff and put out alot of DIY videos i know he plastic gauged his stuff and i believe he was makinh over 800hp to the wheel but after so many runs he spun his mains and if he see's this post please tell me if you think it had anything to do with not line honing your mains that may of cost you that build. I never heard what caused it. But that may be an example of what this arp bolt clamping force causing cap distortion . But yea thats what i am hearing if you use arp bolts in your rods or mains they need to be reground to stay round to the ground lol. Hope that helped ya bud but that guy i dont want to put his name out there he is good and you probably seen some of his work on here its right on.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 1,202
Likes: 569
From: MSP
however, in my experiences with ARP fasteners for engine internals, the OEM torque values are not used. I don't know about the LT1/LT4-specific ARP stuff, but a lot of the hardware being discussed here is usually torque to yield, which is torque to 80# + 90 degrees. ARP fasteners are seldom torque to yield, instead just being 95#. Roughly the same clamping force is achieved, but with the benefit of a bolt that isn't stretchy.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 116
Likes: 14
From: PSL FL.
Hello
I felt the same way until i read thr stories online here and other articals just googled on the subject. I have a new set of arp studs fothe lt1/lt4. They only cost me 225.ish but after reading that the arp have a higher claming torue value as well as stretch that the right way to run rod cap bolts or mains is to have the mains line honed and the large end of the rod sized and honed with the arp fasteners installed. Or you chance an out of round condition which will cause a bearing failure. I would love to install my main studs but not at a cost of a spun bearing. Because i dont want to have to remove the crank to have the block line honed. I did not know any of this until i read the stories . At first i ordered weisco drop in pistons but after reading on it i was going to add arp rod bolts but you cant have the factory rod resized so i canceald my order of 1300. And went with 1800. Pistons with h beam rods fitted with L19 arp bolts designed to mate to a factory size crank journal. Upon finding that out i read the same on the mains caps so i dont want to line hone the block so i will leave it alone.
