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Heare is a picture of my 2018 grand sport LT1. NOW ONLY REASON I AM POSTING THIS IS BECAUSE I READ SO MANY HORROR STORIES ABOUT IF YOU DONT LINE HONE YOUR MAINS OR HAVE YOUR LARGE END OF THE RODS HONED AND TRY TO PUT ARP BOLTS YOU WILL END UP WITH UNEVEN WARE. WELL GUYS THIS IS Gm's work 11000 miles i see uneven ware at the two load sides 12 and 6 oclock roughly robert can you explain thus for us. I pulled this engine over the pasenger fender because the boom could not reach from the front. I am 62. Been wrenching since 11 years old with my father. I dont pay for labor that i feel i can do. But this is factory clamping torque. And it loojs like i put arp bolts in there. Remind u 11000 miles all stock.
your opinion most wanted. Thank you. Shiney wear at 6:00 and12:00 is this ok from gm will arp make it worse?
My opinion is that you should learn how to focus your camera, take new pictures, and repost.
I see your carpet or towel there is very dirty. The threads on the top of the first picture look neat too, I guess. The bearing surface? Blurry as ****.
My opinion is that you should learn how to focus your camera, take new pictures, and repost.
I see your carpet or towel there is very dirty. The threads on the top of the first picture look neat too, I guess. The bearing surface? Blurry as ****.
Usually people put a dollar sign ($) in front of numbers when expressing a price. It's pretty understandable to read the title of your other post as "a 78,000 mile lt2"
I wouldn’t be concerned with what you’re seeing if you’re replacing that stuff. I found a stock rod bearing with a scar on it that was probably there since the first day it was fired up. Was running fine at 35,000 miles. Since it sounds like you know what you’re doing it should be better than new when you’re finished.
Good choice on the cam change for the DoD delete. That stuff is junk. And a Range won’t fix it.
The reason i brought up the issue was because i seen a lot of people say dont do arp bolts it will throw your bearing clearences out of round which i can agree with. But my point was the factory stuff is not perfect. Maybe thats normal there is a heavy load in them 2 areas but how much worse can it get by changing to arp u cant resize the factory rod. Thats why i went with pistons and rods instead og pistons and factory rods with arp bolts. I have arp mains but i am not even going to put them in now i dont trust shops around me to line hone my block for bolts. I will run factory i will no disturb the crank. Period
It looks like it was a tested and failed thats how banged up some places are. But it dont effect function or fit i just expected better for a fairly new engine. The post started out about the rod bearings theres been alot said on here about installing arp rod bolt in the factory rod that it would throw the tollerance out of round so i showed my factory rod bearing and its got more ware at 12 0'clock and like 4:00-6:00 0'clock which point being even the factory dont ware perfect can an arp make it worse maybe. But thats the way it goes no biggie. Enough has been said on this post i should of ignored most of them. Lesson learned.
I've built engines we've run at Bonneville for 3-decades, setting records, etc. We used ARP bolts with Carrillo rods without any issues... ever. Granted we never used GM OEM parts. All the best on your rebuild.
Well thank you for that info first of all. Your reply was the first one that stayed on subject. I am only using the stock crank. I am using the JE piston with TSP H Beam rods fit for the factory journals there suppose to be drop in's i will check the weights to the factory set up. I was going to install arp main studs but with all the stories of the clamping force distorting the main caps i will probably leave the crank as is. There only 11 000 miles on the car and i am not sure of any shops in my area or if its worth it at this point. I dont track or drag the car it's strictly a daily driver with some power if needed or wanted. It's super charged and fun but i just want to remove the weak links from the engine. Thanks !
I am more concerned about the mains. Not sure i want to pull the caps at this point. I can use a bore gauge or mic and snap gauges but if the arp does make it tight its possible to go .001 underside if it dont get to lose in other areas. Then i will be looking for a machine shop. So if the crank is good as is and can handle 800hp i think i will leave it be.
OP, I really don't see the problem with the bearing. Granted, the camera focus point is not on the bearing surface as you point out, but even out of focus the bearing surface looks normal. I don't see huge gouges or metal particles in the babbitt of the bearing, and you did not show a photo of the crankshaft journal mating surface which, perhaps could be damaged from particle wear.
I also do not understand you comments about the ARP bolts/studs vs OEM Torque to Yield fasteners, or your other comment about "factory clamping torque". Torque is Torque. It's about applying the proper fastening technique with proper fastening torque for the fastening system used.
You post says, "I see uneven ware at the two load sides 12 and 6 oclock". These dynamic load changes are part of the piston engine cycle. Anyway, you pulled the engine apart for reasons other than an engine failure or perceived failure. You pulled it apart for your own personal modifications. From what I see, that bearing could have easily made it to 100,000 miles or more.
Go to your display panel and look at your Lifetime REVs on the engine. All it takes is a little simple math to realize the large number of engine revolutions these engines endure to get us around town. On my 2014 Stingray for example, the Engine Hours are 762.6, the Lifetime REVs are 6914/10,000, and the mileage is 29,859. Simple math says that the engine (AVERAGE), revolutions for Lifetime is approximately 1,511 RPM over 762.6 hours.
Consider the above example from the perspective of the rod bearing. In my 2014 Stingray, each rod bearing has taken a pounding of dynamic load change From TDC to BDC over 138 million times. And I'm sure each of my bearings would appear no better or worse than those of your photos. Many guys on this C7 forum have gone over 100K miles without engine problems.
All is see from this post is that you have a complaint with GM. And you certainly are entitled to your opinion. But I do not find that you have made a convincing argument about the internal rotating system.
Please post better photos of the failures.
Congratulations for your desire to (still) turn wrenches on the Corvette. I’m 72, I do the same..
No i didnt mean that the bearing was bad it looks pretty good actually. My point was i read in several places that guys wanted to do drop in pistons then add arp rod bolts nut the topic came up that the clamping force is greater than the factory so your taking a chance of a bearing failure because the arp bolt can distort the big end of the rod. So i when and bought a set of drop in piston with rods thT have been sized to fit the factory crank. My point was even the factory bolts and rods show some uneven ware and it started a s##t storm so i bought main studs that i probably wont use if its going to cause me to spin a bearing by getting distorted i will leave the crank alone because i dont want to search out a place to line hone the mains just to add the studs. I also mentioned that the burring process was crap and that didnt go over to well either. So i am just going to do it my way and not post about it.
Explain this please.
