pewter99

damn

lassie

My story is one day I drove to Walmart and after shopping my C7 did not start. Towed to the shop and they drained oil just to find a few gallon on fuel coming out with oil. Fuel injectors stuck open that lead to Hydro Lock. It took a year and half to rebuild the motor due to parts shortage by Pandemic

Another time, just when I pulled in my driveway and died. The shop found faulty fuse box. It passed huge amp straight to starter, pump and etc and fried them all. This time it took only a few weeks to repair

Catfish4818

That's some bad luck you had there! Hope those type of events are all behind you!

mr1mike2001

I’m waiting on the quote and a scheduled time to drop off from a local shop here. As they tear into it and reveal what went wrong I’ll post the follow up. Currently I’m hoping that the bottom is still in good shape.

lassie

Thank you Catfish. Yes it is all behind and I did modify and improve them all. Very entertaining C7 now

mr1mike2001

The story continues…. Found a shop that came and picked the car up. We put in on the trailer with no issues. They got back to the shop and let it sit on the trailer overnight. Shop crew out the next day to take it off the trailer and no accessory system would come on. I went by today. We tried to put it in service mode with no luck.

At the car with both key FOBs the door will not open from the drivers or passenger side. You have to pop the trunk and manually open from the release cable. Once inside the car all windows work and the seat still slides into one of the preprogrammed positions. The radio does not work and the dash does not light up. The chimes still happen after hitting the start button. Not sure what sort of an electric gremlin this could be. BCM?

westsdad

I've had the same thing happen as described at the shop. Had a new battery and didn't drive or trickle charge for a couple of weeks. Battery voltage dropped to a point that I thought that the car was possessed. Initially opened doors and screens displayed, but wouldn't start. Grabbed a battery charger and had to open trunk with key and door with cable. No screen display but chimes. Charged the battery and have kept on a trickle charger without a problem since.

Have a 2014 Charger that had low battery voltage (as I had changed fuse position to supply constant 12V to the lighter plug and had a radar detector left on overnight during a road trip) and wouldn't start, and the GPS was displaying and speaking auf Deutsche. Charged the battery, disconnected ground, and reconnected and everything was back to normal.

mdolandese

Keep us posted Good Luck I hope you figure it out

mr1mike2001

Re charge on the battery is the first thing the shop attempted. Car had 12V when I went by a little later. Unfortunately it still seems possessed.

mr1mike2001

It’s beginning to look a lot like a starter cable short. An electrical issue as what was mentioned earlier. Assumption is the short caused the 350 amp to blow. I replaced the fuse and tried to start and it popped the 350 again.

Maxpowers

Looks like some progress. Good luck.

Factoid

Mike, it sounds like you are on the path to a frustrating, but much simpler solution. Good luck!

Tinkertech

Sorry to say but it looks to me like your engine locked up and when you went to restart it the 350 amp fuse blew (common symptom ) because the starter pulled too much current because it could not turn the engine over. Same thing happened to the second fuse.
Just to be sure its time to get the DVM out and eliminate the possibility of a short on the 350 amp fuse cable to the starter, and then check the starter for proper operation.
Go from there.
Wish you the best of luck.

lassie

Bad fuse box there. I had bad one and did not start due to fried starter, fuel pump and etc. Got a new fuse box.

mr1mike2001

So I won’t go to much into the story but I will have an answer tomorrow. Fuse box on the way with delivery tomorrow evening. Long story short I did the one thing I thought I’d never do and went with a local mechanic. Unfortunately I had the car towed back to the house. I found the 350amp blown. Starter smelled smoked the solenoid was done. Pulled the multimeter out tested all connections, everything tests fine. Continuity is good. I’ll put the new fuse box in tomorrow and update to close this out.

i have seen some other posts describing the starter solenoid failing and the. Shorting the ignition system. Anybody run into this issue? Just trying to diagnose my initial car losing all power while driving and in hopes I don’t have something more serious.

Dcasole

Have you tried to turn engine over by hand to make sure it's not locked up ?? Before you fry anything else or buy anything , pop the plugs out of it and see if it rotates. Put a socket on the crank bolt with a breaker bar and see if you can make a two full rotations

You are talking to a guy who had a valve spring break loose , drop in engine ... and locked my engine up tighter than a drum . Popped the 350 amp fuse , dealer said I hooked up jumper cables wrong and thats what blew the fuse , which I never did but .... they did not believe me that car just shook and shut down , they replaced the 350 amp, then they smoked my starter and fuse box trying to start it again before they rotated the engine and found it locked up . $14,000 warranty claim for new engine , starter , fuse box .....
LT motors break valvesprings .... I hope I am wrong in your case but I would try and rotate the engine first

Dave

Vette Ski

Great advice there ^^^^^^^
Rich

Mecinoid

Yeah mine did that the other day. Did load test half of battery rating. Dropped in new battery bingo... good to go. Hope your issue is as easy.

mr1mike2001

Great advice! Pulled the borescope out tonight found some metal shavings. Removed the intake manifold and it looks like I have a piston sideways in the #7 cylinder. Rebuild or new engine coming. DOD AFM delete and headers up next. This has been my dream car, it will come back.

hawkandersonjr

Keep the Faith. Mine been in the shop for a month now. Transmission sensor they say. 2017 stingray