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Possible engine failure.

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Old 03-28-2024, 06:16 AM
  #61  
mr1mike2001
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Finally got the motor out last week and that’s the impact of the dropped valve. New motor will be here today. Going through the parts list the only component I can’t find is the throwout bearing. Everything I search seems to comeback with slave cylinder? Putting the new (used) engine in I wanted to replace pilot, rear seal, clutch, and throwout. Anybody know what part number the throwout is or is it replace the entire slave cylinder. Clutch is being replaced with the McLeod.
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Old 03-28-2024, 06:25 AM
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Travlee
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https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-s...part-24264389/
Old 03-28-2024, 06:31 AM
  #63  
mr1mike2001
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The entire slave to release bearing is all I’ve found. I’m assuming you just can’t replace the release bearing on its own.
Old 03-28-2024, 06:47 AM
  #64  
westsdad
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Add a clutch bleeder extension, if you don't have one already.
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Old 03-28-2024, 08:40 AM
  #65  
bartsky
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What year is your car? I had a 14 break a valve spring I think it was and had to have a new motor installed. Thank god was still under warranty at the time.
Old 03-28-2024, 10:36 AM
  #66  
Flattman
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Wow, that is some serious carnage! Was just looking at your thread title, "Possible" Ending Failure - no doubt now
Old 03-28-2024, 11:10 AM
  #67  
96GS#007
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If you haven't already, I Strongly recommend you pull the oil lines and the dry sump tank. All will need to be flushed. Ditto if you have the oil cooler located by the filter (or anywhere else for that matter). Basically all oil lines need to be flushed or replaced.
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Old 03-28-2024, 11:17 AM
  #68  
96GS#007
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One other thing....if the clutch you plan to install is significantly lighter (ie 20lbs sort of thing) than stock, it'll affect the tune. Gen V is a torque based tune and the loss of rotating mass can give the tune fits. I have an aluminum flywheel and lightweight setup on mine (40+lbs lighter than OEM) and getting the last 0.1% of the tune dialed in has been a PIA.
Old 03-28-2024, 12:32 PM
  #69  
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holy ****......nice you can DIY though
Old 04-10-2024, 09:27 PM
  #70  
mr1mike2001
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Originally Posted by bartsky
What year is your car? I had a 14 break a valve spring I think it was and had to have a new motor installed. Thank god was still under warranty at the time.

same 2014 Z51 yellow topped springs.
Old 04-10-2024, 09:33 PM
  #71  
mr1mike2001
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New (used) engine in and it runs smooth. Only major issue now is the permanent DTCs that haven’t disappeared yet so still have the check engine light. Only driven about 130 miles so far. I’ll keep it going until it resolves. One thing picked up was the fuel rails between the 14 and 17 years. My original 14 used a 4 wire plug in when going to the fuel sensor. The 17 used a 3 wire. Initially after the engine install I had a huge stall in trying to start. After I switched out the sensor and wire bundle on the fuel rail it fired right up.
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Old 04-10-2024, 09:34 PM
  #72  
mr1mike2001
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
One other thing....if the clutch you plan to install is significantly lighter (ie 20lbs sort of thing) than stock, it'll affect the tune. Gen V is a torque based tune and the loss of rotating mass can give the tune fits. I have an aluminum flywheel and lightweight setup on mine (40+lbs lighter than OEM) and getting the last 0.1% of the tune dialed in has been a PIA.

Good to know. Which clutch setup did you end up running.
Old 04-10-2024, 09:41 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by mr1mike2001
Good to know. Which clutch setup did you end up running.
RPS Billet Carbon Street Twin clutch with an aluminum flywheel.

Old 04-11-2024, 05:51 PM
  #74  
JimInSoCal
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Mike, I admire you for a job well done, just know you will love this car more than ever, you opened up her heart, did the surgery and now you know your car better than 99% of Corvette owners. Enjoy the pride you now have.
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Old 04-12-2024, 07:16 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by mr1mike2001
I’m new to the post and a fairly new C7 owner. Tonight I was on the freeway cruising at 70 car lost all acceleration push on the gas and nothing happening. I was able to get over to the shoulder and stopped. All electrical worked but the car wouldn’t turn back over. Sputtered a few times before it went into a lock out like what not having a functioning starter would do. Apologies if issues like this have happened and I didn’t search well enough but I’m a bit on the screaming for some past experience help. Car has 70,000 miles. Oil was fine. I tried to get in to turn the crank manually but caught the steering rack in place. Any troubleshooting help y’all could provide. Hoping it’s not a new engine.
jeez
Old 04-21-2024, 02:05 PM
  #76  
MrGary2011
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Originally Posted by mr1mike2001
Apologies I did leave out one important key maybe someone in here has heard of. While driving I’ll lost the power to accelerate. Foot on pedal with any pressure and no feedback from the engine. Just had to coast over to the shoulder. No drop in oil pressure no metal clanking.
The acelerator pedal is electric so maks sense on loss of electrical power. BATTERY!



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