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Hello,
I have owned my 2014 C7 Z51 Stingray for less than 2 years. I purchased it in 2022 and it only had 2,500 miles on it. I keep it on a battery tender over the winter when it cannot be driven. In March I took it out of storage and took it to a local Corvette guy who is reputable and services only Corvettes. He changed my oil and got it ready to go for Spring driving. Within the past month I have noticed that if I don’t have it on the battery tender for a week, I can’t start the car. I now have approximately 6,000 total miles on the car. It will make click click click click sounds and some of the electronics will work but not all. I can’t roll the windows down, I can’t start the car. The power is drained and the lights will barely stay on and they flicker out when I try to start it. Last week I took it to a dealership and they claim to have tested the battery and said it was fine but I was not a witness for the test and I have no report. I have asked them to send it to me. Yesterday I tried to start it after one day of not driving it and I couldn’t start it at all. I put it on the battery tender. After a few hours I took it to fill it with gas and got stranded at the gas station. I was able to get it to start after a jump from my husband’s truck. Even though I was told by a dealership the battery is fine, I don’t think it is. I am new to corvettes but this doesn’t seem right at all. I have been researching batteries and battery tenders on this forum. It doesn’t seem normal to have to keep it on the tender constantly, after one day of not driving. I don’t know the age of the battery and no one can seem to tell me when I ask. Can someone please tell me if this has happened to you? Thank you!
From: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
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Have the battery checked by another shop. If the battery is in good condition, the car should certainly start after not being driven for a few days. If the battery is good, then you may have other issues that are draining the battery.
I’m far from being an electrical expert, but my guess is you need a new battery. Do you know if it’s ever been replaced? Since you bought the car with only 2500 miles on it, there’s a good chance it’s the original one and would be about 10 years old now. It’s obviously not holding a charge. I suspect the integrity of your electrical system is good since a few items are trying to work and the car can be jump started. Good luck with your fix and be sure to report back with what you find out.
Since your new at this game and it does not sound like you have the test equipment or ability to use it I would suggest that you take your C7 to an AutoZone and they will run some free tests on your battery and electrical system.
And if the car refuses to start when your there they will jump it for you too.
I also suspect that the battery is done. As you do not know how the battery was maintained in the eight years before you owned the car, it could have been completely drained a number of times (given the low mileage), which is hard on the battery. At this point, I would just replace the battery. At six years I replaced the battery in my C7 with an AC Delco AGM battery.
The battery date is on top of the battery. I also think you need a new battery and there is a good chance the dealer simply measured the battery voltage and declared it good.
Batteries only last about 6 years now adays, trickle charger or not. Fact of life for all cars.
If you live in a mild climate like I do, batteries can easily last beyond 6 years. I got 9 years out of a battery in my 2006 Civic and I'm currently on the original batteries in my 2016 Civic and my 2018 Corvette.
I got 8 years out of mine before proactively replacing it. I only ever put the maintainer on if I knew it would be at least a week before driving it again.
We have all heard of people getting a zillion years out of a battery. So what. Those stories do not help this lady w/ her problem. I suspect the battery also so I would have it checked again. I would take it back to your Corvette guy for the check because changing batteries in these cars is a bit unusual so I would not want an Autozone guy doing it. I got my Diehard battery at Advance but changed it myself because I was an auto tech for much of my life.
Firstly, I would like to thank every person who took the time to respond to my post. I appreciate it so very much!!!
Secondly, I did take it to my Corvette guy to evaluate. When he got that battery out (what a snug fit!!!), we discovered it was the original - 10 years old. Evidently they don’t even sell that kind anymore. After he replaced it, I drove it back home at about 20 minutes in, I was up to a little over 14v. After one day with the new battery, it sat for less than 24 hours not connected to the battery tender. It took 3 tries to fully start, which has me a bit concerned. I drove it for about an hour and it didn’t get beyond 13v, which is still ok, but I don’t understand why it didn’t rise higher. I connected it to the battery tender as soon as I got back home and it cycled through the various phases (as per usual) but stayed at the 3rd one for quite awhile. This doesn’t seem right to me, but that’s why I am here - to learn! I did also learn that the C7 has over 20 computers in it and everything from even simply opening the door is a draw on the battery. Connecting a DVM shows this and it’s incredible. I also learned from this site and talking to others at the shop that it isn’t a bad thing to always have it connected to the battery tender. It can’t hurt so why not? I am just concerned that it doesn’t seem to start as smoothly as it did the first year after I bought it in 2022 (with an 8 year old battery), now having a brand new battery doesn’t seem to make the start smooth again. We shall see…
Thank you again to everyone who provided insight!!
PLD
Firstly, I would like to thank every person who took the time to respond to my post. I appreciate it so very much!!!
Secondly, I did take it to my Corvette guy to evaluate. When he got that battery out (what a snug fit!!!), we discovered it was the original - 10 years old. Evidently they don’t even sell that kind anymore. After he replaced it, I drove it back home at about 20 minutes in, I was up to a little over 14v. After one day with the new battery, it sat for less than 24 hours not connected to the battery tender. It took 3 tries to fully start, which has me a bit concerned. I drove it for about an hour and it didn’t get beyond 13v, which is still ok, but I don’t understand why it didn’t rise higher. I connected it to the battery tender as soon as I got back home and it cycled through the various phases (as per usual) but stayed at the 3rd one for quite awhile. This doesn’t seem right to me, but that’s why I am here - to learn! I did also learn that the C7 has over 20 computers in it and everything from even simply opening the door is a draw on the battery. Connecting a DVM shows this and it’s incredible. I also learned from this site and talking to others at the shop that it isn’t a bad thing to always have it connected to the battery tender. It can’t hurt so why not? I am just concerned that it doesn’t seem to start as smoothly as it did the first year after I bought it in 2022 (with an 8 year old battery), now having a brand new battery doesn’t seem to make the start smooth again. We shall see…
Thank you again to everyone who provided insight! PLD
I wouldn’t be too concerned just yet. Explain 3 tries to start? By that do you mean 3 individual attempts with the start button, or if it took about 3 seconds to fire up? Mine often has to turnover for a second or two before coming to life. And yes, I do keep mine on a maintainer full time when in my garage.
I wouldn’t be too concerned just yet. Explain 3 tries to start? By that do you mean 3 individual attempts with the start button, or if it took about 3 seconds to fire up? Mine often has to turnover for a second or two before coming to life. And yes, I do keep mine on a maintainer full time when in my garage.
I mean 3 individual attempts with the start button, and then ALSO a turnover for a second or two as you described happens to you.
The first couple of attempts pushing the start button either nothing happens or it really wants to start and everything electronic works but the engine doesn’t actually start. The alternator belt looks good and nothing else appears to be going bad - that we could see - but it may take some more thorough digging….
I mean 3 individual attempts with the start button, and then ALSO a turnover for a second or two as you described happens to you.
The first couple of attempts pushing the start button either nothing happens or it really wants to start and everything electronic works but the engine doesn’t actually start. The alternator belt looks good and nothing else appears to be going bad - that we could see - but it may take some more thorough digging….
Hmm? That’s interesting. Wish I could be of more help. You say nothing happens the first couple of times you push the start button. I assume you’ve applied pressure to the brake pedal? Don’t think the starter will engage until you do that. Also, is the car an automatic? If so, it must be in park. (Or maybe neutral) Grasping at straws here, but perhaps one of the interconnect switches associated with that are intermittent or not functioning properly.
………I assume you’ve applied pressure to the brake pedal? Don’t think the starter will engage until you do that. Also, is the car an automatic? If so, it must be in park. (Or maybe neutral) Grasping at straws here, but perhaps one of the interconnect switches associated with that are intermittent or not functioning properly.
I have found that with a stiff brake pedal, you have to press harder than normal for the brake position switch to signal the ECM to enable the Start circuit. Stiffer brake pedal due to the car being parked for several days with brake booster vacuum having bled off??
When you push the button, it should only take one time. The variable in starting is length of time it takes to start. Temperature and battery strength will govern that situation.
The car has a problem. Take it to a repair shop (dealer) and get it fixed.
I have found that with a stiff brake pedal, you have to press harder than normal for the brake position switch to signal the ECM to enable the Start circuit. Stiffer brake pedal due to the car being parked for several days with brake booster vacuum having bled off??
it is a very stiff break pedal! You might be on to something here…..I really appreciate this so much! I will try pressing harder and see how that works. Thank you!!!!