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Got under my 17 Stingray and did the Diff fluid change with 7500 miles on the clock. Not a Z51 equipped car, so access was actually simple to both plugs. Good news is that the fluid came out almost as new. Bad news was that the fill plug was finger tight and the drain plug not much better. In any case, refilled and tightened to correct spec. On the base cars, this is easier than an oil change ( just smellier). Well worth climbing under. to either get it done or verify that plugs are torqued down correctly. Good project.
I just ordered the gear oil to do mine. I'm at 48k miles on my Grand Sport, and was going to do the transmission fluid (manual) and figured while I was under there, I'd do the rear diff too.
Now that's done, get the Z51 rear sway-bar and install. Simple and easy to do, plus worthwhile... and, I never felt any need to install the front bar that came with my "kit."
I can confirm this fact, as I actually purchased and own the very last brand new OEM Z51 sway bar from the dealer national inventory in February!
Still laying around brand new uninstalled with bushings too, picked it up in case I want to soften the rear/reduce oversteer on my FE6 Grand Sport one day... but got extra excited when I found out it was the last one!!
Let the bids start much higher than you would ever expect to pay!! haa
If you are going to shop for sway bars, here are some more details for all of them out there to help you out as they will change the handling balance on your car (understeer/oversteer) and things can get confusing between the models and options.
For your Stingray rear bar I would go for the smaller standard Z51 non mag ride 26mm vs the mag ride 31mm, or you may get to much understeer for your liking. Your stock Stingray front is 26mm for reference.
As for the front you can go Z51 or the GS Z07 bar is the largest 31mm of all for the quickest turn in and most reduction in body roll. I am running the Z07 currently and it works great.
Got under my 17 Stingray and did the Diff fluid change with 7500 miles on the clock. Not a Z51 equipped car, so access was actually simple to both plugs. Good news is that the fluid came out almost as new. Bad news was that the fill plug was finger tight and the drain plug not much better. In any case, refilled and tightened to correct spec. On the base cars, this is easier than an oil change ( just smellier). Well worth climbing under. to either get it done or verify that plugs are torqued down correctly. Good project.
Some would say that the early fluid change for the diff is the most important one, and then after that you can go a long time. There can be a lot of wear metals floating around in the diff very early on, and after that it doesn't shed much. Not to mention the fact that many have found it to be underfilled from the factory.
Some would say that the early fluid change for the diff is the most important one, and then after that you can go a long time. There can be a lot of wear metals floating around in the diff very early on, and after that it doesn't shed much. Not to mention the fact that many have found it to be underfilled from the factory.
Exactly, I did mine at 1500 miles and it looked exactly like the photos of people who did it at 10k miles or more.
I changed the diff fluid on my '14 at 75k. From what I can tell, it had never been changed before (I think 90k is GM's recommendation) and what came out was liquid silver with lots and lots of slivers on the drain plugs. Fresh fluid, 6k miles later, and I need a new diff. $5500.
I changed the diff fluid on my '14 at 75k. From what I can tell, it had never been changed before (I think 90k is GM's recommendation) and what came out was liquid silver with lots and lots of slivers on the drain plugs. Fresh fluid, 6k miles later, and I need a new diff. $5500.
Why do you need a new Diff? Ouch!
Did you use Dexron 10-4034 75w-90 gear oil?
Rear Diff lube change
