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Milwaukee (don't ask. I don't remember) just installed a couple of stations. Plug in and test and drive off. So here's the deal. You CANNOT register your car until you pass it. It is hooked up to DOT. At the end of your year, you get a renewal notice. Try to renew and it won't work and tells you to go test. Right after you pull out of the station, you can hit the "submit" button and it will know you have passed, assuming you passed.
Where the shops get you is that most people wait till the last minute or last days. This is where you are more likely to sign up with them to fix your car since they are in front if you. Here is your joke for the day. The shop has to spare someone, do the paperwork to get the equipment and pass the class and get to deal with the customer who is pissed that his car didn't pass. $3. That is what they get. Understand that in winter, when they roll up the door to let you in plus use the tech's time, I'm not even sure that the $3 pays for the heat loss.
My registration comes up in February. I wait for a few days of nice weather in either Jan or Feb, run some few errands with stopping/restarting, etc. for a couple of days and get it inspected. It's worked for 3 years straight.
I will report on next inspection, which isn't until Oct 2025 on the OBD Link AFM Disabler. In the meantime, I guess I can remove it, then scan it to see if any codes are present.
Assuming you don't have more than a minor issue, I would say it is appropriate. I do the same. That gives me a little bit of buffer should there be a problem that needs to be resolved. Some like to wait till the last minute then when there is an issue, they have 2 days to get it fixed and drive it for a while to get emissions done. Shop is 2 weeks out and you effectively have to drive it a week so you are now SCREWED and driving around on expired plates. Can't say I feel sorry for them since you are given 2 months notice.
I will report on next inspection, which isn't until Oct 2025 on the OBD Link AFM Disabler. In the meantime, I guess I can remove it, then scan it to see if any codes are present.
I would say that if you had a scanner, remove it and check if it is emissions ready. If it works similar to the Range unit which fools the ECM into thinking it isn't ready so the AFM won't engage, you would not be in readiness state.