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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 03:23 PM
  #21  
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My mindset is that rotors are cheap, even the Z51 rotors. I will change the rotors any time I'm changing pads on any of my vehicles. It's piece of mind.
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 03:31 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Harvey White
Unless raced or abused, the rotors should be fine. As others have posted, check the thickness and for any scoring. If they are in good shape, pads alone should be fine. I Just did mine at 155K miles (Stingray) and the rotors are original.
I have not made it past 60k before I change pads. Probably because I can engine brake, drive in the city areas and have a lot of rapid deceleration. Price of fun, I suspect.

On my MBs, it's been pads, pads and rotors, pads, etc. This is all measured at several points on the rotor and must have half or more than half left.
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 04:30 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Macleod52
My mindset is that rotors are cheap, even the Z51 rotors. I will change the rotors any time I'm changing pads on any of my vehicles. It's piece of mind.
*peace

If spending money needlessly is your thing go for it.
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 05:22 PM
  #24  
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I have a 14 M7 Z51 Mag ride
At 88,000 I changed the brakes out since the front rotors were worn down past the half round vents. I changed all 4 rotors and pads with this Powerstop kit that I purchased from Summit Racing: Power Stop K6523 - Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Upgrade Kits
advantages:
1 Rotors are drilled through and have deep machined grooves, not going to wear down past the vents. I doubt that you can turn the OE Z-51 rotors
2 The brakes have a bit more bite and feel just fine.
3 The rotors are plated so they stay bright around the center.
4 No pad dust, I just returned from a 2000 mile trip with part of the drive on mountain roads and the wheels looked good.

disadvantage:
$660
I do my own work so It wasn't all that painful for all new brakes.
The car now has 97 k on it and I'm very pleased with this upgrade.

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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 07:26 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by aklim
Wow!. What do you do when you get rid of the vehicle? I ended up literally giving them away or throwing them out. Much like a lot of my old specialty one off tools.
I know when I'm getting rid of a vehicle months before I do. I rarely get rid of things. If I plan to get rid of it before I need to buy something I don't buy it. I have a very good handle on when I'll need parts based on how I drive, the typical wear, etc... For example if a car is not 2 years old, I don't buy anything, and by then I know I'm either getting rid of it in a year or keeping it for 5-7.

Also things like the oil are the same on all my cars. Brake parts are shared from my Bronco and my Ranger (same platform).

I work for an OEM, I don't shop around (all I buy, outside of my Corvette, are Fords; who I work for). I get everything new (I get a discount). I've in fact always gotten a discount (the advantage of living in Metro Detroit). I got a GM one from my Aunt when she was alive (both my Corvettes purchased with employee pricing). I don't "Deal Shop", I don't buy used (look at my history, the GTO was the only used car I consciously got). When I worked for suppliers I got the "supplier discount" so my Jeep was purchased with that. But generally if you or a family member works at an OEM, you spec out a car, order it from the factory, and pay what it costs. No haggling, no deal surfing, its like buying groceries, it costs what it costs, it arrives when it arrives.

My parents buy used. because they think even with my discount that new cars are too expensive. So they act differently, but my dad will still buy pads or oil 6 months before he's going to change it. The risk it gets in a major accident and is totaled is small.
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Old Nov 26, 2025 | 11:58 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 449er
Like the other have said, if the existing rotors are in good shape, you can re-use them, but new rotors aren't expensive & you get piece of mind
Good advice.
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Old Nov 27, 2025 | 12:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by LT1 Z51
I know when I'm getting rid of a vehicle months before I do. I rarely get rid of things. If I plan to get rid of it before I need to buy something I don't buy it. I have a very good handle on when I'll need parts based on how I drive, the typical wear, etc... For example if a car is not 2 years old, I don't buy anything, and by then I know I'm either getting rid of it in a year or keeping it for 5-7.

Also things like the oil are the same on all my cars. Brake parts are shared from my Bronco and my Ranger (same platform).

I work for an OEM, I don't shop around (all I buy, outside of my Corvette, are Fords; who I work for). I get everything new (I get a discount). I've in fact always gotten a discount (the advantage of living in Metro Detroit). I got a GM one from my Aunt when she was alive (both my Corvettes purchased with employee pricing). I don't "Deal Shop", I don't buy used (look at my history, the GTO was the only used car I consciously got). When I worked for suppliers I got the "supplier discount" so my Jeep was purchased with that. But generally if you or a family member works at an OEM, you spec out a car, order it from the factory, and pay what it costs. No haggling, no deal surfing, its like buying groceries, it costs what it costs, it arrives when it arrives.

My parents buy used. because they think even with my discount that new cars are too expensive. So they act differently, but my dad will still buy pads or oil 6 months before he's going to change it. The risk it gets in a major accident and is totaled is small.
OK. That is a way different scenario from me. I don't have those discounts so for me, I decided that my first new car was going to be the last unless I have to. I buy off lease. I let the first guy take the depreciation hit and go with that so I have to shop to get the features I want. For me, I am always looking to upgrade to something newer. If I was more confident of the C8 not being the last of the rear engine cars, I'd have bought one when the wife insisted we get rid of the rickety POS (her words). My C7 takes 5W-30 (unless the oil test comes back bad) and the truck does too. The wife's car takes 0W-30. The Trike also is different as are the powersports engines. I plan to use the car for a few years to get my money's worth and when an upgrade offer presents itself that is good, I'm there.

If you plan to drive the wheels off it, even without your discounts, it isn't bad considering you have a warranty. If you are like me and itching for a new iteration, maybe not.
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Old Nov 27, 2025 | 06:51 PM
  #28  
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Rotors are dirt cheap. Just an FYI.....😜🤪
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