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This is my first time changing the brakes on my vette, miles are around 76ish I believe, but I was wondering if I change the front and rear brake pads on my 16 Z51 A8, should I change the rotors or is it safe to just change the pads? I changed the pads on my wife's kia and then a few months later I had to buy new rotors cause of vibration and noise during braking, which is why now I'm wondering if I should take the safe route and buy the rotors also, thanks in advance for your input.
Rotors are normally marked with a minimum thickness, you don't want to just put in new pads if the rotors are too thin.
Also, think about how thin those rotors will be by the time you wear out the new pads. I want the rotors to have enough life to last through the new pads, not just stop me the day after the new pads are installed.
Rotors are normally marked with a minimum thickness, you don't want to just put in new pads if the rotors are too thin.
Also, think about how thin those rotors will be by the time you wear out the new pads. I want the rotors to have enough life to last through the new pads, not just stop me the day after the new pads are installed.
If they haven't been turned once there is no way they are under the minimum thickness, in normal usage.
Rotors are normally marked with a minimum thickness, you don't want to just put in new pads if the rotors are too thin.
Also, think about how thin those rotors will be by the time you wear out the new pads. I want the rotors to have enough life to last through the new pads, not just stop me the day after the new pads are installed.
I would find out the new spec, get a disc brake rotor micrometer and measure several points to see what it comes out with to make sure it is enough to last through the pads like you say.
Most orileys turn rotors,a lot cheaper then buying new ones
I have never turned rotors, I’ve gouged them severely because of sticking calipers etc I won’t bother on turning them. Check out rock auto.com for parts, if you don’t need it today they will save you money
I have never turned rotors, I’ve gouged them severely because of sticking calipers etc I won’t bother on turning them. Check out rock auto.com for parts, if you don’t need it today they will save you money
RA is cheap FOR A REASON. I buy pads at Advance, NAPA or Autozone, etc. and if I wear it out, I can buy a new set, install it and take the old set back and get my money that I paid for the 2nd set. With RA, you get to file an RMA, wait for it to be approved and they send you a new set. You can't buy one and damage swap it out. Vehicle down longer. You buy it and want it next day and you pay much more for shipping. Should FedEx fail, well, you are SOL. Ask me how I know. If I buy from them, I assume 0 warranty since it will be a PITA and "it comes when it comes". I often can't afford RA and the aggravation that comes with it. Summit or Jegs is a whole different animal.
RA is cheap FOR A REASON. I buy pads at Advance, NAPA or Autozone, etc. and if I wear it out, I can buy a new set, install it and take the old set back and get my money that I paid for the 2nd set. With RA, you get to file an RMA, wait for it to be approved and they send you a new set. You can't buy one and damage swap it out. Vehicle down longer. You buy it and want it next day and you pay much more for shipping. Should FedEx fail, well, you are SOL. Ask me how I know. If I buy from them, I assume 0 warranty since it will be a PITA and "it comes when it comes". I often can't afford RA and the aggravation that comes with it. Summit or Jegs is a whole different animal.
This is why you should buy maintenance parts early. I have pads sitting on the shelf for most of my cars. I just swapped the Corvette recently so I won't buy a set for a few years. But on average parts sit on the shelf at least a year before I need them. I always have a jug of oil on the shelf as well. You just need to be prepared. Yea, this takes up space, and I have it, so why not.
RA is cheap FOR A REASON. I buy pads at Advance, NAPA or Autozone, etc. and if I wear it out, I can buy a new set, install it and take the old set back and get my money that I paid for the 2nd set. With RA, you get to file an RMA, wait for it to be approved and they send you a new set. You can't buy one and damage swap it out. Vehicle down longer. You buy it and want it next day and you pay much more for shipping. Should FedEx fail, well, you are SOL. Ask me how I know. If I buy from them, I assume 0 warranty since it will be a PITA and "it comes when it comes". I often can't afford RA and the aggravation that comes with it. Summit or Jegs is a whole different animal.
I’ve had good luck with them but if you have bad parts or need returns there trash only reason I brought them up is because they beat auto zone etc on pricing.
This is why you should buy maintenance parts early. I have pads sitting on the shelf for most of my cars. I just swapped the Corvette recently so I won't buy a set for a few years. But on average parts sit on the shelf at least a year before I need them. I always have a jug of oil on the shelf as well. You just need to be prepared. Yea, this takes up space, and I have it, so why not.
Wow!. What do you do when you get rid of the vehicle? I ended up literally giving them away or throwing them out. Much like a lot of my old specialty one off tools.
Wow!. What do you do when you get rid of the vehicle? I ended up literally giving them away or throwing them out. Much like a lot of my old specialty one off tools.
You stated that you; "throw 90 day in the unopened containers away." Why even keep the car ??
Unless raced or abused, the rotors should be fine. As others have posted, check the thickness and for any scoring. If they are in good shape, pads alone should be fine. I Just did mine at 155K miles (Stingray) and the rotors are original.