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Hi, another question from a newcomer to the site. Car is on order, manual talks about a 2.5” diameter, circular foot for a floor jack. Haven’t found such an animal yet.
What have you home wrenches found to change the cars oil if you don’t have personal access to a garage lift? Thanks, Don
Hi, another question from a newcomer to the site. Car is on order, manual talks about a 2.5” diameter, circular foot for a floor jack. Haven’t found such an animal yet.
What have you home wrenches found to change the cars oil if you don’t have personal access to a garage lift? Thanks, Don
I see a number of forum comments saying you can build your own lifting pads with hockey pucks. That worked fine for older Vettes but they are 3 inches in diameter. The manual says 2 ½ inches max for the C7 because the plastic body parts are closer to the shipping slots were they fit! My aluminum lifting pads used on the C6 were larger in diameter than 2 ½ inches as are most. In fact even 2 ½ inches is very close to the plastic in some slots unless positioned carefully. Didn’t see these from Reverselogic shown in the above thread so built my own cut from a 2 inch nylon bar I had. Those in the above link from Reverselogic look like they will work fine and have some unique features. Frankly I'd have bought 4 since there is a reduced price for 4 and if you bring to a dealer for even routeen service they could have only a 4 post lift available and may not have/use them and crack your plastic! A number of old posts talk about that problem. The Reverselogic design allows you to put them in and temporarily leave them locked in when servicing. It would be difficult to to have a max 2 1/2 inch pad on a jack stay in position without pads being held in position by being inserted into the inserted in the shipping slot. The use of pads is what is shown in the ownwers manual.
Either buy the right size jack pads like those shown from Reverselogic or make your own with the proper diameter if you don't want cracked plastic.
Have a picture pdf of how I made mine that is available on my web site: http://netwelding.com/Reports_Vette_Info.htm
Why not simply use a hole saw and make them out of Oak, 2.5" in diameter cut from 2" thick oak?
I think Oak would work fine-unlike 3 inch diameter hockey pucks which are too large in diameter and may cause the plastic close to the shipping holes to crack (the C7 plastic is much closer to the holes than the C6, that is why the GM manual says 2 1/2 inches max!) From what I made from Nylon, think I would a use 2 1/4 inch hole saw. Take your time and use some kind of lubricant (water?) as oak or any hardwood is tough to use with a large whole saw. Could probably use thinner pieces and glue them together, even stronger and easier to drill!
Thanks. I also think oak will work fine. I have some really fine woodworking tools and can precisely cut anywhere from 2" to 2.5". After I posted I started thinking about the thickness and decided, like you, that 1" (0.75") stacked/glued & pegged would be the ideal solution. Fortunately, I work at Home Depot so I have the luxury of being able to walk the store "looking for solutions". A combination of precisely cut OAK discs and the modified eye-bolts will suffice. Gotta sell my C5 but have a C7 O/O and will let y'all know how the jack pucks work out.
Thanks. I also think oak will work fine. I have some really fine woodworking tools and can precisely cut anywhere from 2" to 2.5". After I posted I started thinking about the thickness and decided, like you, that 1" (0.75") stacked/glued & pegged would be the ideal solution. Fortunately, I work at Home Depot so I have the luxury of being able to walk the store "looking for solutions". A combination of precisely cut OAK discs and the modified eye-bolts will suffice. Gotta sell my C5 but have a C7 O/O and will let y'all know how the jack pucks work out.
Since I've now sold my C5 and am waiting on my C7 I've got nothing but time on my hands and decided to try out the about. In that I work at THE DEPOT I found some really good oak as shown below. This is one of the "cushions" they use to prevent banding from cutting into the stacked material. They're usually thrown away but I grabbed this one and it'll make a bunch of pucks if I need them.
I set my hole saw to 2.375" Dia and slowly drilled into the end to a depth of 1". I then cut around the beam with my circular saw and, waa-laa, a 2 1/8"Dia x 1" thick SOLID OAK DISK/PUCK. All I need to do from here is add the hardware and they're done. A little sanding, some ValSpar and I've got high quality pucks for my C7, whenever it gets here.
Since I've now sold my C5 and am waiting on my C7 I've got nothing but time on my hands and decided to try out the above. In that I work at THE DEPOT I found some really good oak as shown below. This is one of the "cushions" they use to prevent banding from cutting into the stacked material. They're usually thrown away but I grabbed this one and it'll make a bunch of pucks if I need them.
I set my hole saw to 2.375" Dia and slowly drilled into the end to a depth of 1". I then cut around the beam with my circular saw and, waa-laa, a 2 1/8"Dia x 1" thick SOLID OAK DISK/PUCK. All I need to do from here is add the hardware and they're done. A little sanding, some ValSpar and I've got high quality pucks for my C7, whenever it gets here.
First thing I did was pull my new C7 over to the lift. Read the manual and it sez jack up with the pucks (as usual). I usually pull car up to lift and run the front tires up on 2" thick ramp and then put jack under the center of rear cradle and give the rear a couple of strokes and then the front and the rear are high enough to swing arms with pucks to their spots. Well I got to looking at the rear cradle, it's aluminum like c6 but it's not a solid cast pc. it's like a higher tech thinner aluminum case that takes place of old design. So when I jack it up in center it looks like a weaker spot for that. I did it anyway for the first time and no problem but I think I'll find a better way for that next time.
First thing I did was pull my new C7 over to the lift. Read the manual and it sez jack up with the pucks (as usual). I usually pull car up to lift and run the front tires up on 2" thick ramp and then put jack under the center of rear cradle and give the rear a couple of strokes and then the front and the rear are high enough to swing arms with pucks to their spots. Well I got to looking at the rear cradle, it's aluminum like c6 but it's not a solid cast pc. it's like a higher tech thinner aluminum case that takes place of old design. So when I jack it up in center it looks like a weaker spot for that. I did it anyway for the first time and no problem but I think I'll find a better way for that next time.
Agree, lifting in the middle of the rear (or front cradle) could casue a failure. Cast aluminum may be strong but it is also brittle! Page 10-4 of the Owner’s Manual shows the two points on the sides in the rear that can be used. This is similar to the C6. Not having a lift, first I use the proper size lifting pads (GM says max 2 ½ inch OD not the 3 inch OD hockey pucks some have used; I made mine 2 inch OD) and lift both sides far enough to make room for my large jack to slip under the cradle. For the front and rear I made a 2 foot wide, 2 x 6 wood saddle that replaces the metal jack saddle. It has two raised wood pads at the ends to contact the proper places on the frame. The front and rear locations are different widths so I have made holes where bolts in the 1 inch wood pads can be inserted. Works well and also allows me to put jack stands on the jacking pads that I origianlly used with low profile jacks to rasie the car.
Agree, lifting in the middle of the rear (or front cradle) could casue a failure. Cast aluminum may be strong but it is also brittle! Page 10-4 of the Owner’s Manual shows the two points on the sides in the rear that can be used. This is similar to the C6. Not having a lift, first I use the proper size lifting pads (GM says max 2 ½ inch OD not the 3 inch OD hockey pucks some have used; I made mine 2 inch OD) and lift both sides far enough to make room for my large jack to slip under the cradle. For the front and rear I made a 2 foot wide, 2 x 6 wood saddle that replaces the metal jack saddle. It has two raised wood pads at the ends to contact the proper places on the frame. The front and rear locations are different widths so I have made holes where bolts in the 1 inch wood pads can be inserted. Works well and also allows me to put jack stands on the jacking pads that I origianlly used with low profile jacks to rasie the car.
Is there a diagram in the manual that shows the cradle lifting points on the frame?