I asked for more details and below are the specifics for the torque values for both the front and rear caliper bolts. It also clarifies the question I had regarding the use of thread locker. The front caliper bolts are torqued to 162 lb.ft but the rears (smaller bolt) are 89 lb.ft. Thread locker is used on the fronts but not the rears which was what I saw when removing the calipers. I couldn't find any explanation for the reason for the change from the C5/6 torque settings.

"#1, Front bolts carry threadlocker 88861418 and are torqued to 162 ft lbs. The old thread locker must be completely cleaned off using denatured alcohol. This is both the holes AND the bolts. Now, after that time, the thread locker is applied to the threads and ALLOWED TO CURE FOR 10 MINS PRIOR to installing into holes and torqued to specification.

#2, REAR caliper bolts have no such requirements and are torqued to 89 ft lbs .

Both front and rear brake hose banjo bolts are torqued to 30 ft lbs using new sealing washers. No Loctite is used.

Calipers are installed DRY, THEN once torqued, pads are lubricated with 19303310 grease and installed with pins. There are no requirements to replace pad retainment pins or shims UNLESS there is corrosion or wear seen.

Bleeding of the braking system utilizes right rear, left rear, right front left front bleeding sequence and bleeder screws are torqued to 89 in lbs."

This information is from a "GM World Class Certified Service Technician" whose judgment and knowledge I trust.

It sure will be nice when the Service Manuals are available to owners.

Rich

 

The fronts can be done without taking the calipers off, I finally put the Carbotechs on tonight. If you simultaneously pry from the top and the bottom at the same time using 2 screwdrivers and a rag between them and the caliper, they will come out. Just grab the adhesive tape that is left behind with needle nose and you are good.

 

Were you able to get them out without scratching the caliper? I attempted this yesterday and gave up due to fear of damaging the caliper and insufficient knowledge of how everything is installed/no torque specs (no service manual). I may give it another shot if the pads can be somewhat easily changed without removing the caliper.

 

Blaine,

I just put a rag underneath the screwdrivers and I did not scratch the caliper at all, you do not have to pry hard. You just have to put even pressure on the top and bottom to get them out, as the pad has to come out evenly. If you have a heat gun/hair dryer you can use that to heat up the tape a little bit which might make it a little easier.

 

Are you sure of that 175 lb ft? I show for the C6 175 N-m or 125 lb ft.

That is one hell of a lot of torque for that bolt.

Elmer

 

For those changing brake pads the calipers DO NOT need to come off. In 2 minutes I had the front pads out.

 

Great information. Saved this for future reference.

 

Perfect. Pop the pins, take out the spring lock, pop the pads, insert new pads, relocate spring lock, tap pins back into place.

Dayem! That looks easy!

Elmer

 

Where are you finding the stock brembo pads for Z51?
every site i see says ACDelco and for all stingrays..
I track the car so want a good pads which the z51 seems to work fine.. and i dont want noise on the street..

 

I ran Carbotech 1521's in my last vette and put them in the C7 a couple weeks ago. MUCH less dust than the stock Z51 pads and what little dust there is is pale grey. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner to get as much of the old compound off the rotor surface. Drop the 1521's in and bed them well. They may sqeal a lilttle until you transfer some of the new compound to the rotor. Bedding takes care of that. For street use - even pretty highly spirited mountain road - I notice no downside to these pads. Sure is nice not having the wheels look like $hit 50 miles after you cleaned them.

 

rule of thumb is pads with less dust are less aggressive..
I need a pad to hold up to track duty though the stock z51 one has been doing pretty good though i have been being easy on it/..

 

Yes, 1521 is not a track pad but, we do make other compounds. As with any track pad you will have some noise and dust I know that's not what your looking for but if you change your mind I will be happy to help. All Carbotech compounds are compatiable with each other so you could swap pad for street and track with no issue.

 

Hi Adam,

I had installed the XP 10s and XP 8s on my Z last fall and while they are a little squealy they worked perfectly at the track and on the street. Any dust washed off easily with Maguiar's Chrome Wheel cleaner. Great pads for what I needed.

 

I was thinking xp8 front and back.
But have to see. Selling this car to get the Z06.

 

Talk to Adam at Carbotech. He's a local sponsor around Cleveland and gave me great info.

 

Greg, you can run the XP8 front and rear with no issue maybe some noise at cold moments.

 

Rich.... curious how those pretty painted rotors hold up after a track day? All the paints I used, and I did not use that many before I gave up...........cooked off. If yours holds up what paint it that?

 

Greg,

I haven't run the C7 on the track but did run our C6 Z06 with rotors painted the same way and the paint held up well on those. I used high-temp paint which has a 900 degree rating. I think the keys are getting everything prepared well, completely clean, using the right paint and applying multiple light coats. Dupli-Color, Rust-Oleum and VHT are the paint brands to check out to get the right color match. I can only speak from our experience but no doubt how hard you run and how hard you brake will determine how well it holds up.

I do have some pictures and information of how we went about it and can send those if you send me an e-mail at: richsclassiccorvettes@***.net We'll be in Carlisle this week but can send them when we get back.

Hope that's of help.

Rich

 

Rich
I really like the rotor paint job. I will definitely do that to mine this wint...er, I mean, this modification season. I wonder if regular enamel would hold up on a non-track car?

Do have any photos of them with the wheel mounted. Are your wheels bright or black? I would like to see them.

Thank you, Mariano (Alfie)

 

We're away at the moment but will post a picture when we return.

Our wheels are chrome.

I doubt regular enamel would hold up but I haven't tried it.

Rich