About ready to push ahead with installation and have following questions:
1). installation instructions?
2). Where do you suggest I specifically mount control unit?
3). I must run a front license plate and thus mount to right side of plate with the head back a few inches and cut into the lower grill. My question is what is the side angle pick up of the sensor so I can mount it far enough away from the plate to avoid interference?
4). What specific mount do you recommend? And finally,
5). How do you suggest snaking buzzer lead into the right hand side passenger seat area from the engine compartment?



Any help would be appreciated.

 

I can help you with a number of items. I started on this today but ran into an electrical issue.

First off I had my Curb alert from my C6 GS with a lower front end. I'm fairy certain on the C7 I would not have bought one. But I got it and figured install it. I back in a lot of spaces and avoid curbs and the like. The curb alert can be a nuisance, sounds as you hit dips and the like but I thought I'd give it another shot in the 7.

I'm in Ohio and don't run a front plate although you are required. This enforcement varies by state. With that being said I mounted the sensor close to the center. I'm thinking with the front plate.... you may be able to get under the licencse frame. The front of the C7 does not have a lot of places to mount the sensor where it won't be seen. Once you find a place you are happy with there is a square hole bottom right behind the grill, look at it from the engine compartment and it's obvious. Fed the wire from the sensor thru there. I ran that wire under the fender, loosened two fender screws, pushed the wire in there and snugged them back down.

My idea was to tie the sensor and the control unit into the engine fuse box. I ran the buzzer wire there too. It's easy to run wires from the engine bay into the footwell, just thread them under the rubber and moldings. Going into the footwell I removed the plastic kickplate, it snaps out with a gental screwdriver.

I need to find another source of electric so not done yet..... got to do some research.

Worse case is go to the back fuse panel but don't want to do that yet.

Its not hard at all just take your time.

 

I'm in the middle of installing my wideband at the moment, and I'm running the power tap over to the lighter power wire. You may want to look into doing the same if you're having an issue finding a proper power source without having to resort to using the front or rear fuseboxes.

 

Yes that is a possibility. Frankly I started to pull out the counsol this afternoon. Got the rear two bolts off. Tried to nudge it up but got some resistance on the right side. Did not see another bolt and did not have time to mess with it. Once I learn how to pull out the counsol I probably will tap the lighter wire put in an inline fuse and be done. EDIT: Thanks Forum..... No need to pull the bolts out......easier then the C6 and 5s

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c7-g...-outlet-2.html

I just saw there are micro fuse kits online. Need to relook at the fuses and see if they are the type on the kits. Found out we have 3 point regular size fuses too. Never saw that before. Looks like there are 2 circuits for each fuse.

 

Look at my sticky at the top of this forum, entitled "How-To: Install Short Shifter / Replace Stock Shifter".

There is a step-by-step walkthrough on how to remove the center trim area.

Got it before the edit, see below.

..

 

That works, too!

 

Can I get Poer fro the front fuse box by either using a spare fuse slot or add a fuse to the aux outlet fuse. Then I thought I would mount the speaker and the range control box, the box with the red button somewhere behind the passenger footwell kick plate. How can I lift up the sill molding that runs up the door? I would then run the wires from the speaker and calibration box to the front fuse box.

 

Yes, but you'll need to be careful with mounting due to the limited space in the box. You will find some ATM fuses that you can use an add-a-fuse to piggyback off of. The majority are ATR, however, which will take some custom work.

Could you be more specific about the trim you're trying to remove? I can probably help you with a service diagram.

 

Ok I need to remove the trim piece thar runs beside the sill plate up inside the door. I need to get the wires from underneath the passenger foot well ti under the hood. Can I piggyback a add a fuse to the aux outlet fuse I the engine fuse box?

 

If you're talking about the cig. lighter/accessory power, that's in the trunk panel (rear #37 fuse).

Here's what you're looking for:

Front:





Rear:

 

That's it, so which fuse in the front fuse box can i add a fuse to? Refer owners manual.

 

That depends on what you feel is easiest for you to get to and tap. You aren't going to find many people doing this because the front box is extremely hard to get everything wired into without modification. I'm running multiple wires in, but it requires modifying the lid, etc.

If you want to run to the trunk box, everyone is using #37 with a piggyback fuse. If you already have the side trim off (which is the harder part than getting under the carpet), it's a very simple process to get to the rear box.

 

For what it’s worth, no need to take off the bottom side trim. That trim can be pulled up slightly at the bottom and wire tucked under. Took only a minute. The toughest part is lifting the carpet to access the rear fuse panel. I ran my radar detector power on the passenger side and the under the edge of the carpet. It lifts easily on the side and the wire can be tucked under. You'll use a low amp fuse connecting to fuse #37 with an Add-a-Circuit so the wire is protected from a short. Do pop the bottom of the wheel well off to gain access to the carpet edge. If you use the passenger car side, you’ll first uncover the battery. Good idea so you're ready when you do need access! Fuse #37 is at the rear of the fuse panel (see owner's manual) so no need to expose all of it. Not sure on the best way get the wire from the passenger to driver side, but perhaps by lifting the edge of the carpet in the front of the cargo area. Getting past the left hand rear storage compartment doesn’t look to be as easy. Perhaps snaking the wire under the carpet can work.
Just some thoughts.

 

You know, you can do this very easily by tapping power in the engine bay. The Curb alert turns on automatically when there is a charge (car start) detected so any hot lead will do. Mount everything in the engine compartment except the speaker like Glen E did and avoid all the fuse tapping and panel pulling.
His info is here: http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/...ystem-diy.html

This makes the install VERY simple..

 

Agreed. I followed Glen E's approach & it worked out nicely.

The positive power post is located under a cover attached to the back of the fuse box.


Flip up the cover


Attach the red lead from the curb alert control box (don't try to unscrew the existing nut; just use a new one on top


Replace the cover, & you're good to go

 

I'll be doing mine this way in the next few days..

 

Nicely done, and very simple approach!

No need to be using add-a-fuses when a simple AGC inline will work just as well.

If, however, you are trying to sandwich something in that box, it gets a lot worse.

 

Theta, Where did you gat these diagrams? Is this from a shop manual? Where can I get one? Any of this available on line?
Thanks

 

These are from the GM Si system. It's available to the public @ $1200/year. They also have a monthly option @ $150/month.

 

Any schematic drawings of removing the upper front interior door molding?