Just some quick observations on my ECS blower install. I started Saturday and got it running tonight, all told about 12 hours of work however this included about 2 hours of fussing around with the fender trying to get at the ECU which I gave up on (it sucks!) and putting on some new TSW Panorama Bronze wheels. I still have some finishing up to do which will take a couple of hours.

I used Race Ramps for the first time and these were very helpful, highly recommended.

The instructions are decent but need some work. Like someone else posted, it says to remove the sway bar and rack and pinion from the vehicle but you don't need to you can just move them forward to get access to the balancer bolt. I found it helpful to undo two ground strap wires above the ABS lines when bending them and needed to bend the two larger lines on the side up considerably. I saw a few drops of brake fluid come out of the fittings where I loosened them a little so hopefully no air got in. Make sure you put the belt on before you put the head unit on. It may be possible to change the belt with the head unit on but I don't think that is too practical.

While I don't have it tuned yet I was able to start it (keeping the revs under 2500 so I don't build too much boost) and it sounds great. A little louder gear noise than I expected but not too bad.

All in all I am satisfied so far and think it is a high quality kit. Can't wait to get it tuned and dynoed. Requested ECS to send a base tune file by email today will see if I actually get it. I have a HP Tuner on the way.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=82wu...ature=youtu.be

 

Awesome. Is that with just the stock NPP, or do you also have headers?

 

Looks awesome! Love the red powder coating, looks very cool with it on the lower pipes as well.

Completely agree with the Race Ramp recommendation. I use those with a set of the wheel cribs, works great when the tires are on. Otherwise ramps + 2 stands.

That will save you time not having to move the bar and rack out, glad you guys were able to figure that out. Those ground wires above (at least one of them) have to get unbolted to do the job. The side lines are kind of odd - you can do more of the bending toward the cabin and then do less near the master cylinder. Have not seen them bent like that :yikes:, but with the gauge of that tubing, they won't kink. I'd like to know how you did that, because that's tough to bend with tools!

If you just saw a tiny amount when twisting the four individual fittings, don't worry. After half a revolution, you get some seep (was told this by a tech that inspected my brakes). Anything more than a drop per fitting can be an issue, but if you were like me installing it, you immediately turned back when you saw the seep to stop it.

Impressed / jealous / happy that you got it done so quickly and easily. Didn't mean to discourage you on the ECU, but now you see what I mean.

Wheels look great - been looking at a set of Nurburgrings, myself. Just really like the stock black wheels, but the rubber in the stock size...

 

Just watched the video - it's so damned hard to get good audio on these with phones just based on the wildly different frequencies (loud at both low-end and high-end).

Sounds familiar, though...

 

I was track tuning yesterday so if you sent a file I'll take a look at it shortly. Congrats on the install and thanks for your business!

 

That is stock NPP, no headers. I will post a better video with a real camera this weekend.

 

Thanks for all your help Theta, via your thread and otherwise. The red is just rattle can Rustoleum. They have three shades at Walmart and I ended up with two of them lol. I think the lightest matches the car the best. Yes I am very pleased with the wheels. 1/2" wider than stock. The rubber is Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position All Season. 295 width in back. Got the set for ~$928 shipped on sale at Tirerack.

 

Thanks Doug. I will have HP tuners tomorrow and send you my file. ANother thing you may want to add to the instructions is about gapping the spark plugs. I emailed with Chris about this and he said the stock plugs will work at 7-8 psi boost if gapped down a "bit". I asked him for a target gap but haven't heard back yet.

 

I think you'd want to be down around .030 on the stockers. Personally, I think it's worth the money to go with the cooler NGK plugs.

 

What part number are you using Sean?

 

For a supercharged LT1, do you guys recommend the TR6's, or the Iridium version? The issue with the Iridium is that the plug tips are so soft, that they can easily break when gapping them. Denso is also another really good brand.

 

stock number 6510 for NGK's. There are few others being used also, but the std TR6 does not work in the LT1 engine.

 

I'm using the NGK (6510) LTR7IX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug - $10 a pop at Amazon.

 

Damn, Doug beat me to it!

 

You were too busy calling me while I was speaking to another customer and typing.

 

How many heat ranges colder from stock?

 

I'm just keeping you on your toes!

 

Theta-

What plug wires did you use along with the NGK's?

Thanks.

 

I settled on the Taylor 409 Pro Race 10.4mm wires:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c7-t...nd-w-pics.html

 

Thanks Theta.

Sorry OP. Didn't mean to take a left turn on your thread.