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DIY: Adding Z51 Sways to a base C7....>

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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 10:30 AM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by MikeyTX
LIONEL21, I added the Z51 non mag ride sway kit from Cultrag and it made a world of difference in handling. No more body roll when running the twisty's. As the front sway bar on the mag ride equipped Z51 cars is slightly thicker, make sure when you order the kit that inform Gene or Patrick your car has magnetic ride.
The front Z51 bar is the same regardless, it's the rear that's thicker with MRC.
Originally Posted by Kracka
stock C7
Front (base model) - 26.2mm (hollow, 7.85 lbs)
Front (all Z51) - 28mm (hollow, 7.95 lbs)
Rear (base model) - N/A
Rear (base Z51) - 26.5mm (hollow, 6.9 lbs)
Rear (Z51 w/MRC) - 31mm (hollow, ? lbs)
Rubber bushings (base model)
Polyurethane bushings (all Z51)

Last edited by Kracka; Jan 5, 2016 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 12:34 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by Kracka
The front Z51 bar is the same regardless, it's the rear that's thicker with MRC.
T y. I stand corrected. Glad you caught that.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:36 PM
  #163  
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Question about installation. Is it easier to do this with the car on jack stands (or two point lift), so the suspension is fully extended, or with the car on ramps (or a four point lift) so the weight of the car is resting on the tires? Or does it make no difference?
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #164  
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Mine was in the air on a 4 point lift.
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Old Jan 5, 2016 | 07:41 PM
  #165  
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I much prefer doing the swaybar exchanges with the car raised and the tires removed. Much easier to access the links from the sides.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #166  
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Looking for some feedback. I completed this mod today. Everything is clamped and torqued to specs. I noticed my rear bar has quite a bit of play within the clamps and insulators. I was expecting them to be tight. Is it normal for the bar to move within the insulators?
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 03:34 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by TNSQUIRE
Looking for some feedback. I completed this mod today. Everything is clamped and torqued to specs. I noticed my rear bar has quite a bit of play within the clamps and insulators. I was expecting them to be tight. Is it normal for the bar to move within the insulators?
Not normal. I'm thinking you got the non-mag bar with mag bushing unfortunately.
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 03:50 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Kracka
Not normal. I'm thinking you got the non-mag bar with mag bushing unfortunately.
I think you are correct. The bushing part number I received is 22950837. I think it should have been 22950835. I sent an email to Trunk Monkey (Suburban Chevrolet).
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 06:19 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by TNSQUIRE
I think you are correct. The bushing part number I received is 22950837. I think it should have been 22950835. I sent an email to Trunk Monkey (Suburban Chevrolet).
Keep the bushings and request the mag (31mm) rear bar. Much better than the non-mag bar.
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Old Feb 17, 2016 | 08:52 PM
  #170  
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The Z51 sway bar kits are available to us again after a long time on backorder. Feel free to order from our site at the link below!
http://www.cultragfactoryparts.com/c...s/?parent=1001
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Old Jun 4, 2017 | 09:19 AM
  #171  
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I installed the sway bars this weekend. It took me about 5 hours with my car up on ramps. When it comes to fishing out/in the front sway bar I had to jack up the car on the passenger side and remove the ramp. There was no way I could fish the sway bar out without doing so.
When it came to torquing the front clamp bolts, I was very nervous about snapping the bolts. I used a smaller torque wrench that was calibrated in inch-pounds. I tightened the front clamps with socket wrench first and then attempted to torque to 450 inch pounds (37.5 ft-lbs). Only one bolt caused the torque wrench to click. The other three would not click the torque wrench. I stopped short of clicking the torque on 3 out of 4 bolts out of fear of snapping the bolts or stripping the cross member they are threaded into. Hopefully this will not be a problem down the road.

Last edited by op z; Jun 4, 2017 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Jun 5, 2017 | 04:32 PM
  #172  
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Default torque to yield bolts - one time usage

[QUOTE=op z;1594874871]I installed the sway bars this weekend. It took me about 5 hours with my car up on ramps. When it comes to fishing out/in the front sway bar I had to jack up the car on the passenger side and remove the ramp. There was no way I could fish the sway bar out without doing so.
When it came to torquing the front clamp bolts, I was very nervous about snapping the bolts. I used a smaller torque wrench that was calibrated in inch-pounds. I tightened the front clamps with socket wrench first and then attempted to torque to 450 inch pounds (37.5 ft-lbs). Only one bolt caused the torque wrench to click. The other three would not click the torque wrench. I stopped short of clicking the torque on 3 out of 4 bolts out of fear of snapping the bolts or stripping the cross member they are threaded into. Hopefully this will not be a problem down the road.[/QUOT

If I remember correctly, they are "torque to yield" bolts and are only to be used once. You do run the risk of snapping the bolts even at the advised torque settings. I would purchase new bolts and replace the ones that didn't meet the torque setting.
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Old Jun 5, 2017 | 05:16 PM
  #173  
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I did the same project right after taking delivery in 2015. You are a better man than I. For $100 my mechanic let me use his lift. Took me less than 90 mins.
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 01:00 PM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by Kracka
The front Z51 bar is the same regardless, it's the rear that's thicker with MRC.
So... If I have a base stingray with mag ride and non z51, are the sway bars on my car smaller than z51 on front AND rear ?
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Old Dec 25, 2017 | 01:13 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by 2016stingray
So... If I have a base stingray with mag ride and non z51, are the sway bars on my car smaller than z51 on front AND rear ?
I have a base stingray. I bought the Z51 sway bar kit. It included both sway bars. I changed out the front bar and added the rear bar. The Z51 front bar is thicker than the base bar.
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 06:11 PM
  #176  
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Default Sway bar end links HD vs factory end links??

I just Purchased the pfadt sway bar kit that comes with everything to install on a base C7. But I noticed one thing, I know the end links are adjustable and HD, but it got me to thinking, I’m installing larger bars front and rear, which will increase weight. But I also saw the factory aluminum end links for the C7 weigh like 4.8 oz. The HD links calculated From what I could find are about 4lbs total for all 4.

anyone think upgrading to the HD adjustable links are worth it? I don’t have rear sway bar so I would still have to buy factory links and additional hardware. I do have the 2019 C7 lowered on factory bolts so adjusting out preload would be good.

i know this message is old, thank the “search option”

matt
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Old Feb 1, 2022 | 07:27 PM
  #177  
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I think the OEM end links are very nice. They have seals to keep out the gunk. They are not too expensive. And as you pointed out, they are light weight. You don't need adjustable end links unless the sway bar is bent or not made properly. Corner balancing / pre-load should be adjusted via the spring loading bolts.
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