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...the circled fitting?
The car in question is a 2015 Z51. Post #'s 12 and 13 in this thread https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-stingray.html have the same question, and an answer, but I'm not seeing the plastic clips referenced in the answer. What am I missing? I've no doubt I can pull hard enough on it to get it out, but that will probably be at the expense of breaking something. Not in favor of that!
You use a heat gun to warm the plastic tubing once you remove the barb from the valve cover. That's how I did it when using the stock fittings to install a catch can.
Thanks again, but I'm still missing something.
To remove the barb from the valve cover it has to be rotated, but it can't be rotated with the tube attached.
Post #4 says remove the tube AFTER the barb is out of the cover.
But the tube has to come off BEFORE the barb can be rotated...??
Guys, I really appreciate the suggestions, and I'm not trying to be dense (comes naturally), but I'm still not seeing a solution. Here's a larger pic of what I'm looking at, along with descriptions of what I can and what I can't do...
It looks to me like the tube assembly on which I overlaid a blue line is all one piece that runs from the dry sump tank to the valve cover, and to the fitting at the front of the head, with a 'Y' connection about one-quarter of the way along the run length.
I can make the disconnects at points A and B, and I can remove the mounting bands at points C and D which frees up that tube unit from the motor except at point E.
The tubing is firm, hard plastic; I see no flexibility. Even though the tube unit is -almost- totally free from the motor, it's length and configuration prevents me from being able to swing it in an arc that lets me rotate fitting E to free it from the valve cover.
If using a heat gun is the way to remove the tubing from the connections, I'll give it a shot, but it seems to me like that's a method that could cause a new problem while solving another, and I was hoping there was a less potentially damaging way of removing fitting E.
Really, thanks again for your ideas; I do appreciate them.
Just let the engine get up to operating temp then pull it out with some force. No rotating needed. Took it on and off like 3 times last week during header install.
Just let the engine get up to operating temp then pull it out with some force. No rotating needed. Took it on and off like 3 times last week during header install.
To remove "E" you simply pull straight up. There is no special twisting or spinning or anything of the sort. It simply has two prongs on the inside that snap in place. The down side to this piece is sometimes just pulling up can snap one of the clips. I have found the safest way to remove is to firmly grab the hose and fitting and pull straight up in a firm but not jerky motion. If you jerk it out you risk snapping one of the clips.
To remove "E" you simply pull straight up. There is no special twisting or spinning or anything of the sort. It simply has two prongs on the inside that snap in place. The down side to this piece is sometimes just pulling up can snap one of the clips. I have found the safest way to remove is to firmly grab the hose and fitting and pull straight up in a firm but not jerky motion. If you jerk it out you risk snapping one of the clips.
Just let the engine get up to operating temp then pull it out with some force. No rotating needed. Took it on and off like 3 times last week during header install.
Yep; that did it! Engine warm, pull straight out. Couldn't have been easier (once I knew it would work).
Too many times I've used too much force/effort on something that I end up breaking it. Wanted to proceed cautiously with this one. Thx for the info.
How do I remove...
