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Braking failure at track today

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Old May 22, 2014 | 01:59 PM
  #141  
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It also looks like the RB hat design blocks a lot of the venting the rotor needs vs. Stoptech, Brembo or AP.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #142  
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Wow, didn't know this thread was going to take off. I have my car back, tech said their may have been air in the lines or an air bubble in the caliper. I had the system flushed and new fluid put in. They did not find any codes, or evidence of brake fluid boiling.

My thinking is this, I bought a brand new 2001 Z51 corvette, and drove the snot out of it at willow springs for years, on a stock set up, never once had any braking issues. This was the first time taking my 2014 Z51 Corvette to Willow, and I expected it to stand up to a day of tracking on street tires in stock form. Hopefully this is just an isolated incident.

I plan on replacing this car in a few years for a Z06. To be honest I will be much more restrained next time I am on a race track.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #143  
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Default i'm shocked

the amg c63 had issues at 2500 miles?
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Old May 22, 2014 | 03:50 PM
  #144  
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Yes, went into limp mode for over heating in two sessions. Seems its an issue with the transmission. Again, this was one of the coolest days I have ever been at willows 68 degrees.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 05:36 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Croc999
can you direct me to this blame?
i know quite a few people who use RB+Carbotech with no special issues.....
so i would like to see what is this about...
This.. I just took this of RB website.

Since the rotor is 3mm thicker than stock, it will not work with any pads that are made thicker than OE pads (Known such as Carbotech).


This two-piece rotor utilizes the Acura NSX rotor disc, and is 3mm thicker than S2000 OE disc. However is will still fit under OE caliper for a direct bolt-on installation w/o any modifications. Since the rotor is 3mm thicker than stock, it will not work with any pads that are made thicker than OE pads (Known such as Carbotech). Each pad must be 15.50mm or thinner in order for this rotor to fit, therefore it's your responsibility to check from your brake pad suppliers about the pad thickness before buying these rotors. Rotors are not returnable due to the fitment issue on thicker pads.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by VRMMMM
Yes, went into limp mode for over heating in two sessions. Seems its an issue with the transmission. Again, this was one of the coolest days I have ever been at willows 68 degrees.
what year was the C63? the older ones have torque converters still....sort of like the C7 A6....guess what, they overheat immediately, too. Guess what will still have a torque converter.....the A8!!! Hope they figured it out, otherwise, you better get a stick for the track.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 08:46 PM
  #147  
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Upgrade your whole brake system and be done with it. You got lucky this time, next time could be different.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 09:44 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by Croc999
can you direct me to this blame?
i know quite a few people who use RB+Carbotech with no special issues.....
so i would like to see what is this about...
See this page on their website... http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pa...g.asp?full=yes

I confirmed this with them too... something about the material in RB rotors gets very hot (apparently it is very hard steel) and this causes some pads to leave deposits. What is interesting is that AP Racing actually seem to promote Carbotech pads (or at least they referenced their use) and we all know AP Racing make top notch brake products. It was too bad really because I had planned to buy the RB rotors but already had my full Carbotech pad set up and am VERY happy with it. I'll wait and put AP Racing rotors on the car when they are available.

Last edited by gthal; May 22, 2014 at 09:51 PM.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
what year was the C63? the older ones have torque converters still....sort of like the C7 A6....guess what, they overheat immediately, too. Guess what will still have a torque converter.....the A8!!! Hope they figured it out, otherwise, you better get a stick for the track.
My 2012 C63 overheated as well... it had the new MCT transmission with the wet startup clutch. Most true autos (which the MCT still is as it is not a true DCT) have heat issues at the track. A DCT or MT is the best option for track use, no doubt.
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Old May 22, 2014 | 10:01 PM
  #150  
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I have 3 sets of the front rotors in stock and rears on the way!
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Old May 22, 2014 | 10:16 PM
  #151  
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Originally Posted by VRMMMM
Wow, didn't know this thread was going to take off. I have my car back, tech said their may have been air in the lines or an air bubble in the caliper. I had the system flushed and new fluid put in. They did not find any codes, or evidence of brake fluid boiling.

My thinking is this, I bought a brand new 2001 Z51 corvette, and drove the snot out of it at willow springs for years, on a stock set up, never once had any braking issues. This was the first time taking my 2014 Z51 Corvette to Willow, and I expected it to stand up to a day of tracking on street tires in stock form. Hopefully this is just an isolated incident.

I plan on replacing this car in a few years for a Z06. To be honest I will be much more restrained next time I am on a race track.
Until the issue repeats itself, I say your boy who was driving f*cked up and tried to play like the brakes disappeared to cover his error. Brakes just dont disappear with no pedal, no feedback, no nothing, then reappear with no sign of a problem. I call bs.

Does he left foot brake his amg?? If he does, I guarantee he clutched it...
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Old May 23, 2014 | 02:13 AM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by Adam@Amp'dAutosport.com
This.. I just took this of RB website.

Since the rotor is 3mm thicker than stock, it will not work with any pads that are made thicker than OE pads (Known such as Carbotech).


This two-piece rotor utilizes the Acura NSX rotor disc, and is 3mm thicker than S2000 OE disc. However is will still fit under OE caliper for a direct bolt-on installation w/o any modifications. Since the rotor is 3mm thicker than stock, it will not work with any pads that are made thicker than OE pads (Known such as Carbotech). Each pad must be 15.50mm or thinner in order for this rotor to fit, therefore it's your responsibility to check from your brake pad suppliers about the pad thickness before buying these rotors. Rotors are not returnable due to the fitment issue on thicker pads.
this is not about pads compound not compatible with the RB rotor - this is about thicker REAR rotor using stock caliper.
obviously you need a thinner pad for this.
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Old May 23, 2014 | 02:15 AM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by gthal
See this page on their website... http://www.racingbrake.com/v/main/pa...g.asp?full=yes

I confirmed this with them too... something about the material in RB rotors gets very hot (apparently it is very hard steel) and this causes some pads to leave deposits. What is interesting is that AP Racing actually seem to promote Carbotech pads (or at least they referenced their use) and we all know AP Racing make top notch brake products. It was too bad really because I had planned to buy the RB rotors but already had my full Carbotech pad set up and am VERY happy with it. I'll wait and put AP Racing rotors on the car when they are available.
Thanks
Somehow i've missed it.
As RB rotors+Carbotech pads user i will investigate this further
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Old May 23, 2014 | 11:19 PM
  #154  
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I'll try this again.
The driver said the following:
The brakes didn't go down.
Brakes didn't move 1/2".
Brakes were like pushing on cement.
Like the pedal hit a brick wall.

These statements all say the same thing and none is a sign of a brake fluid issue.
Classic case of overheated pads or pads that are outgassing.
And yes they can come back to working properly in a few minutes.
I have seen it personally many times. It is exactly like he described.
There might have been an abs/computer issue but I doubt it.

Driver then talks about the brake pedal while offroad. I wouldn't put any faith in what anyone says while on bumpy terrain. You just don't have a feel for the brakes at that point.

I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

Last edited by corvette dave; May 24, 2014 at 11:26 PM.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 09:40 AM
  #155  
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i indeed had this situation few times - hitting brakes on a bump - the pedal is hard and no significant slowing down. a second pedal push after a moment - everything is fine.
since it's never happened after brakes heavy abuse - i always assumed that its because ABS got confused at the bump.
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Old May 24, 2014 | 03:46 PM
  #156  
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I started reading this and couldn't stop and now I have to make a couple of observations.

Turn 8 is not preceded by a hard braking zone and 95 miles an hour in a C7 is WELL below the speed at which the car can be driven through that turn. The unresponsive brake pedal is between the driver and the Corvette gods but even with the computers off the car should not have had problem driving through the turn.

I'm not sure we'll ever know what really happened but something doesn't make sense.

On the subject of AMG track failures, we had a new E63 at Big Willow a couple of years ago. Three sessions and the front rotors were hammered although the trans was fine. It always helps to learn how to turn off the computers before you track some cars since they can contribute to failure.

But, really, 95 in Turn 8 driving a C7? I'll have trouble with that for a while.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 01:10 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by LA STIG
I started reading this and couldn't stop and now I have to make a couple of observations.

Turn 8 is not preceded by a hard braking zone and 95 miles an hour in a C7 is WELL below the speed at which the car can be driven through that turn. The unresponsive brake pedal is between the driver and the Corvette gods but even with the computers off the car should not have had problem driving through the turn.

I'm not sure we'll ever know what really happened but something doesn't make sense.

On the subject of AMG track failures, we had a new E63 at Big Willow a couple of years ago. Three sessions and the front rotors were hammered although the trans was fine. It always helps to learn how to turn off the computers before you track some cars since they can contribute to failure.

But, really, 95 in Turn 8 driving a C7? I'll have trouble with that for a while.
It sounds like he was a far cry from coming into the corner hot. Given that, what the driver stated and the OP's confidence in him, my guess was driving off was failsafe. To avoid risk of anyone in front spinning, sliding, etc he took a route that didn't require brakes and buy some time to slow down. He recovered from a brake failure perfectly. But I don't mean anything other than that. Face value. Knowing he was on stock brakes, he could have driven in limited gears (slower) to take it easy, go out there and have some fun.
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Old May 30, 2014 | 03:25 PM
  #158  
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maybe the check valve for the booster somehow got stuck shut temporarily for couple brake applications.
but that sounds near impossible since i've easily blown air through them with my mouth so unless there is some mold defect for it to get stuck shut once somehow, lol.

maybe the seal in the pedal/brake booster somehow got stuck open, negating the vacuum assist to cause hard pedal.
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Old Feb 2, 2023 | 02:33 PM
  #159  
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If you race and are not a race mechanic then, maybe have one set up the car for track way more than stock with just the stuff you think it needs. I M H O
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Old Feb 3, 2023 | 09:43 AM
  #160  
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Your friend just got out of his automatic 7spd tranny car. I would venture to guess that he might left foot brake and subsequently confused your clutch for the brake pedal in the vette. Quite frankly, I have done that when learning left foot braking years ago. It happens.
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