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If all else fails, you can use the mini-cat sensor bungs. The quality ones ($50/ea) aren't snake oil and actually work very well - I use those on the MINIs.
I'm sure this new batch of cats will take care of it, but it's an idea just in case.
They installed the headers yesterday and gave me some feedback.
1. They said the gaskets sent with the kit shouldn't be used, they re-used the stock gaskets.
2. One of my O2 sensors wouldn't come out of the Catalyst and ended up stripping. They had to order a new, there was only one in the whole country....careful here.
3. My stock exhaust was leaking already where the mid pipe connects to the rear exhaust.
4. My exhaust is also being wrapped by the rear differential to keep temp's down.
If all else fails, you can use the mini-cat sensor bungs. The quality ones ($50/ea) aren't snake oil and actually work very well - I use those on the MINIs.
I'm sure this new batch of cats will take care of it, but it's an idea just in case.
The new cats from ARH are suppose to be improved. They also include "extensions" which screw into the pipe bungs. They space the rear O2 sensors out about an inch and apparently help eliminate the CEL problem. I was concerned about fitment since the O2 sensors stick out farther, but they fit between the bell housing and tunnel fine. Mine is an MN7 and my friend's is an A6 and the new cats both fit.
As I posted yesterday, we installed theses new cats and I only have about 20 miles on them. I will post the results after 100 miles.
2. One of my O2 sensors wouldn't come out of the Catalyst and ended up stripping. They had to order a new, there was only one in the whole country....careful here.
That's a nasty problem we've all been having with at least 1 of the sensors.
I hit them with PB (or similar) and a little heat before getting them out now. The front passenger sensor was cross-threaded in my GM, so I had to re-chase the thread (not fun, but works).
My friend had one O2 sensor with galled threads. Whoever installed them at the factory, over torqued it and galled the threads. We got it out, but the threads were destroyed on the O2 sensor. Heat with WD40 may prevent that. A shop owner said a regular propane torch won't get hot enough, so you may want to look for someone with a small acetylene torch. None of the parts shops we visited had the correct O2 sensor so he had to buy it the dealership. Not cheap either.
My friend had one O2 sensor with galled threads. Whoever installed them at the factory, over torqued it and galled the threads.
That's a better explanation - seems that somebody had the torque wrench set too tightly.
If anyone here does get unlucky like that, grab a diamond file set and chase the threads - not fun, but it's doable, and will save you a bit of money and time since these are hard to find (even when cross-referenced to the other number).
Interested in more feedback from those who have installed ARH long tubes (from the perspective of installation challenges and opinions of performance/sound )
Lots of people around here with ARH LTs (far more than mid-lengths), never heard a bad thing about them.
I, personally, have a set, and have tried both the 1-3/4" and 1-7/8" sets with both catted and non-catted X-pipes. Very pleased with everything, and Nick/Steve/Phil provide some of the best service in the industry.
Perhaps the sensors would have been easier to remove if the motor was warm as per the installation directions shown earlier in this thread. Would be even nicer if the factory would use anti-seize on the sensor threads before installation.