2014 Z51 HP/performance increase?
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
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2014 Z51 HP/performance increase?
Anyone,
For a 2014 Z51, what are the tuning options to increase HP and torque? Is adding another 100 HP thru "chipping" it an option at a speed shop? And, should I expect problems with such a boost to (1) factory warranty, or (2) other software applications in this hyper-electrically wired car?
For a 2014 Z51, what are the tuning options to increase HP and torque? Is adding another 100 HP thru "chipping" it an option at a speed shop? And, should I expect problems with such a boost to (1) factory warranty, or (2) other software applications in this hyper-electrically wired car?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Though this has been discussed to death, I will answer this politely. 
There is no such thing as chipping on modern ECMs. You will need a dyno tune using HPTuners, or a handheld device like the Diablo inTune. DO NOT get this car tuned by inexperienced tuners - it can cause catastrophic damage since the LT1/E92 is above and beyond anything most of us have ever tuned.
You will not see 100hp or 100tq through tuning, alone. Expect that the warranty, especially with the CVN checking, will be voided on the powertrain. Otherwise, no adverse effects should be noticed. It will just drive better and be a whole lot more fun!
But do seriously consider the warranty issue - you can see I blew mine to hell at 200 miles, so I'm not concerned. I was one of the people championing the inTune for being stealth, but after seeing what the MDI can pull now, you can't bet on it passing the secondary checks.
So, hopefully that answers your question!
There is no such thing as chipping on modern ECMs. You will need a dyno tune using HPTuners, or a handheld device like the Diablo inTune. DO NOT get this car tuned by inexperienced tuners - it can cause catastrophic damage since the LT1/E92 is above and beyond anything most of us have ever tuned.
You will not see 100hp or 100tq through tuning, alone. Expect that the warranty, especially with the CVN checking, will be voided on the powertrain. Otherwise, no adverse effects should be noticed. It will just drive better and be a whole lot more fun!
But do seriously consider the warranty issue - you can see I blew mine to hell at 200 miles, so I'm not concerned. I was one of the people championing the inTune for being stealth, but after seeing what the MDI can pull now, you can't bet on it passing the secondary checks.
So, hopefully that answers your question!
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Pretty much spot-on:
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 63
From: Staten Island/NJ NY/NJ
Pretty much spot-on:
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
u can do a 4 hr pro-charger install tho
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
It's incredibly difficult - that's why mine is heading down to VR for them to do it - no way I could handle something that difficult. Nothing remotely as simple as the LS1-LS3 days.
I believe PC is the fastest DIY install according to most accounts.
I believe PC is the fastest DIY install according to most accounts.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Pretty much spot-on:
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
Blower + tune = +150whp (min) = $5000-$6000 installed,
or
Cam (with aggressive lobes, non-DoD) + headers + tune = +100whp (or more) = $6000-$7000 installed.
Decide based on curves at your desired RPM.
Best bang for the buck on the C7 is a blower. If you'd prefer a simple all-in-one (no-dyno) solution to install yourself, Procharger sells a kit that has the inTune with it.
If you have one professionally installed, you will get more performance out of a dyno tune.
The reason the cam option is so expensive is due to the price of the installation along with all of the needed items (it's an extensive list) - $4000 easily right there, then add headers and installation, and you're around the $6500 area.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Hard to say at the moment, but one can assume that the lesser-powered option (in this case, N/A) would be 'safer' long-term. It's all a matter of pushing something past the limits of the OEM design.
The headers and tune will simply bump up the curve starting from 0rpm all the way to redline. The cam will start making more power at (depending on the cam) 4000 and keep going strong to redline. In this case, I'm talking about a DoD-delete cam setup as most (if not all) shown here have been.
Blower + tune gives you the low-end boost from the tune, and a massive torque increase starting surprisingly early (really starting to come on around 2500 - by 3000 you're well above stock and climbing). You are limited once you hit the top-end, though, due to the factory cam.
The headers and tune will simply bump up the curve starting from 0rpm all the way to redline. The cam will start making more power at (depending on the cam) 4000 and keep going strong to redline. In this case, I'm talking about a DoD-delete cam setup as most (if not all) shown here have been.
Blower + tune gives you the low-end boost from the tune, and a massive torque increase starting surprisingly early (really starting to come on around 2500 - by 3000 you're well above stock and climbing). You are limited once you hit the top-end, though, due to the factory cam.
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Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
Not a bad idea, at all. I went blower/headers/tune, then went to meth/cam afterwards.
If you can stomach the cost of the cam work up-front, your way probably makes more sense for upgrading later on.
Also, to confuse you a little more, there is a debate (that I am partially responsible for) about the usefulness of ported heads on a blown application. However, I'm fairly certain that on a N/A setup, they're quite worthwhile.
You would also want an intake on a N/A setup until the eventuality of the blower (or no blower).
If you can stomach the cost of the cam work up-front, your way probably makes more sense for upgrading later on.
Also, to confuse you a little more, there is a debate (that I am partially responsible for) about the usefulness of ported heads on a blown application. However, I'm fairly certain that on a N/A setup, they're quite worthwhile.
You would also want an intake on a N/A setup until the eventuality of the blower (or no blower).
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Agree with everything you said, including the heads. The intake I have already. Just got the car two weeks ago, maybe three now so just accumulating all the parts for all the mods I want to perform now so I can just do it all at once. Both cosmetic and performance. That way it is in the shop one time and is complete when I pick it up. I have no patience and hate going back and forth to add more mods, not to mention when you don't plan it all out 9 out of 10 times you end up spending more money because you buy parts that are not going to work with your final setup, if anything is actually final.......... Anyone who mods knows there is no such thing, at least I haven't found that "final" phase yet.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
So true!! Now I'm already looking into pistons and rods... it's a disease...
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 960
Likes: 40
The fuel injectors and air intake probably already support more power than the C7 makes. So the obvious mods would be higher lift camshaft and headers with low restriction exhaust system.
But I doubt that the correct tune for the cam and headers would be found. Well, look for a shop that does cam, headers, and tune as a stage mod. Also, an increase in valve size is a top-end engine rebuild while higher compression pistons are a bottom-end engine rebuild. And note that forged pistons require different clearances and a careful warm-up. Cast pistons are less trouble but should go into freshly honed cylinders.
If the C7 is a track car and doesn't need to plug in to emissions testing then here are some engine swaps:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...03674/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...71011/10002/-1
These engines have their own engine controllers and thus all the OEM electronic gadgets of the C7 would be disabled. For instance, race cars often don't use ABS but have a master cylinder with a bias bar adjustment
.
But I doubt that the correct tune for the cam and headers would be found. Well, look for a shop that does cam, headers, and tune as a stage mod. Also, an increase in valve size is a top-end engine rebuild while higher compression pistons are a bottom-end engine rebuild. And note that forged pistons require different clearances and a careful warm-up. Cast pistons are less trouble but should go into freshly honed cylinders.
If the C7 is a track car and doesn't need to plug in to emissions testing then here are some engine swaps:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...03674/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...71011/10002/-1
These engines have their own engine controllers and thus all the OEM electronic gadgets of the C7 would be disabled. For instance, race cars often don't use ABS but have a master cylinder with a bias bar adjustment
.
Last edited by B Stead; Jun 11, 2014 at 04:06 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 556
Likes: 1
From: Hollywood , Atlanta Fl
Blower is the ticket. I'm on the Hot Rod power tour. I have already smoked a Viper Venom 650, and a 72 Chevrolet Diesel and the truck smoked a 14 Viper. Just drove 400 miles to Crownpoint IN and drove right up on there Dyno with no cool down and it's hot and muggy here. She put down 552 WRHP.
Next stop Wanna Go Fast.
Next stop Wanna Go Fast.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
More of a curiosity, as I'm sure more people will be doing this once the pistons are more generally available.
If the ported heads don't make financial / cost:benefit sense (to me, anyway) at the moment, perhaps having those forged internals backing me up will be worth the extra money.
Once you're in there for a cam, you're pretty much all the way down to the shortblock, so again, labor becomes far cheaper due to less time involved.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Miami Florida
Blower is the ticket. I'm on the Hot Rod power tour. I have already smoked a Viper Venom 650, and a 72 Chevrolet Diesel and the truck smoked a 14 Viper. Just drove 400 miles to Crownpoint IN and drove right up on there Dyno with no cool down and it's hot and muggy here. She put down 552 WRHP.
Next stop Wanna Go Fast.
Next stop Wanna Go Fast.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 28
From: Aledo, TX
Not sure - talking to VR about it right now, in fact.
More of a curiosity, as I'm sure more people will be doing this once the pistons are more generally available.
If the ported heads don't make financial / cost:benefit sense (to me, anyway) at the moment, perhaps having those forged internals backing me up will be worth the extra money.
Once you're in there for a cam, you're pretty much all the way down to the shortblock, so again, labor becomes far cheaper due to less time involved.
More of a curiosity, as I'm sure more people will be doing this once the pistons are more generally available.
If the ported heads don't make financial / cost:benefit sense (to me, anyway) at the moment, perhaps having those forged internals backing me up will be worth the extra money.
Once you're in there for a cam, you're pretty much all the way down to the shortblock, so again, labor becomes far cheaper due to less time involved.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,761
Likes: 240
From: Saint Louis MO
St. Jude Donor '14-'15
I think the OP will find a good route with those choices, though, even if it does become an addiction.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 10,961
Likes: 2,642
From: Texas Hill Country
The problem with that is, we would do the same thing with the Z06....that's exactly what I am wrestling with now......Do I build my C7 or do I get a Z06 in Jan/Feb/whatever??? The logic only works if you leave the Z06 stock or with minor bolt ons like headers or pulley....yeah right!!!