What front end alignment are C7's delivered with? Road?Track? C6's were set up with a track alignment (so I'm told) and a few club members went through tires quickly. Should a new C7 go through a re-alignment wheN delivered

 

The alignments are not perfect from the factory because the suspension has not entirely settled yet. That's why your warranty allows for a 12,000 mile adjustments period. I would recommend taking it to the dealer for a alignment after the first month or so..

Just my .02

Ant

 

Thank you. Waiting for the C7 to arrive. Didn't know about warranty "adjustments"

 

My factory alignment was -.5 degrees camber, front and rear. This would be a street only alignment from the factory. I now have a track alignment with more negative camber.

 

I am looking for suspension settings.

What are the standard settings from the factory and what do people use for everyday driving.

There are lots of notes about letting the suspension settle for several hundred miles before any adjustments should be mad.

I read the 2014 manual online because my LT1 with Z51 and Mag ride suspension has not come in yet. While I could not find the factory suspension settings in the manual there was a section on performance driving is states the following below.

If this is covered in another area on the forum please point me there.

Section 9-6 Operating an driving

If equipped with the Z51 package, the racing and competitive driving wheel alignment settings should be set as follows.

Caution - Using these wheel alignment settings may cause excessive tire wear. Only use these wheel alignment settings for racing or competitive driving. Excessive tire wear is not covered under the vehicle warranty.

Alignment should only be done by adjusting the lower control arm cam bolts and not by removing the washers upper control arms and frame.

Front (per corner)
Caster +7.0 degrees
Camber -2.0 degrees
Toe 0.05 degrees toe in

Rear (per corner)
Caster 0 degrees
Camber -1.7 degrees
Toe 0.05 degrees toe in

Thrust Angle 0 degrees


Later in the day I found this good thread
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-corvette.html

2014 FE1 / FE2 / FE3/FE4
front
caster 7.40* +/- 0.60*
camber -0.50* +/- 0.60*
total toe 0.10* +/- 0.20*

rear
camber -0.50* +/- 0.60*
total toe 0.00* +/- 0.20*

 

I always have the alignment checked on a new car.. When I got my 2004 Z06 it was set with too much negative camber for street driving and it wore the inside edge of the tires in 1000 miles..
Also, our Corvette club puts a lot of cars on the lift, and almost everyone of them show inside tire wear unless they have had them aligned to be less aggressive.

 

Wow! Really! There is something in the warranty that allows you to get an alignment in the first 12,000 miles! Gotta read that. It would be nice if the dealer told you that!

 

i autocross/track my car 20 times a year, i also drive it there up to 100 miles each way on a6 hoosiers and was wearing out the inside of tires long before the outside was shot, i want/need as much negative camber as i get to a point, -2.5 front, -1.5 rear. what i did ( and it worked) i went with ( zero tow) in front and just a little tow in at the rear ( ( the only reason for me not going with zero tow in back was as we all know alignment could move around a little and i made sure there was no chance of tow out in the rear. racing with tow out in the rear = oversteer. my tires now wear even and i have grip autocrossing. OK I MADE A LONG STORY OUT OF ITS NOT JUST THE NEGATIVE CAMBER, ITS NEGATIVE CAMBER WITH TOW IN OR TOW OUT. also with zero tow your car will be faster in a straight line, tow skuffs speed. some say the car will be unstable with zero tow, i dont feel that way.

 

I set mine up close to what you have. Not as much negative camber on the front as you have, but I think it needs a little more. Negative 1.5 degrees on the rear was the max I could get. I also did zero toe front, and .05 in on the rear.