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I got a 2014 A6 and i wanted to now whats better and whats the difference of the Off Road x-pipe vs the catted X-pipe and does some one have a video of catted headers and with out
The difference is the catted x pipe has catalytic converters. If you are only doing bolt ons get catted. If you are going nitrous or high horsepower FI (750rwhp+), get off road.
The difference is the catted x pipe has catalytic converters. If you are only doing bolt ons get catted. If you are going nitrous or high horsepower FI (750rwhp+), get off road.
Give us a call and we can go over all the options and the benefits. Give us a good idea of where you are going with your build and we can get you fixed up
I did a fair mount of research before going with TSP. In fact, I just picked up my TSP LT headers with off road x-pipe from UPS today. It all came in one box and the quality and craftsmanship looks to be a really good bang for the buck. I'll be posting back after the install and performance gains are documented.
In my research with all the major brands, I found that cat vs off road x-pipe will not gain you much. All reported about +3 hp with the off road x-pipe. If your state inspects, you're better off going with the catted versions. You also need to think about resale value. If you sell out of state, some may be turned off with no cats. Another big difference is sound. No cat will be much louder and more raspy(crisp). I have NPP (dual tone) exhaust and that helps driving in and out of the neighborhood. I also figure, if I don't like it, I can add cats later but if you get the catted versions to start, I doubt you ever remove them. I almost went with Stainlessworks (SW) because it appears their cats are constructed such that a straight pipe or cat can swap in or out. Hope something here helped.
Here is what they sound like at cold start without cats. I love the sound on mine. Things to think about though is the tunnel cover no longer fits. They say that can use spacers to make it fit but mine doesn't even look close. It doesn't bother me as i don't road course my car. The headers make huge tq number which is a plus, I made 650whp 657wtq with ecs blower, ts headers, meth. This is more tq than almost every other car i have seen with the same set up and that's on a lower reading dyno. I think i got my monies worth out of them.
Originally Posted by BoneStock";1588889800]Here is what they sound like at cold start without cats. I love the sound on mine. Things to think about though is the tunnel cover no longer fits. They say that can use spacers to make it fit but mine doesn't even look close. It doesn't bother me as i don't road course my car. The headers make huge tq number which is a plus, I made 650whp 657wtq with ecs blower, ts headers, meth. This is more tq than almost every other car i have seen with the same set up and that's on a lower reading dyno. I think i got my monies worth out of them.
[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_g5qu5BYLA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_g5qu5BYLA[/url]
I was able to bend the front of my tunnel cover to make it fit. Originally tried bending and using washers as spacing, but found that bending was enough. Took a couple trial fits to get it right.
Seems like the tunnel cover helps with chassis rigidity, so I made the effort to keep it.
I was able to bend the front of my tunnel cover to make it fit. Originally tried bending and using washers as spacing, but found that bending was enough. Took a couple trial fits to get it right.
Seems like the tunnel cover helps with chassis rigidity, so I made the effort to keep it.
Please share what you learned and how you bent the cover. A picture is worth a 1000 words here.
Please share what you learned and how you bent the cover. A picture is worth a 1000 words here.
Please and thank you!
Sorry, didn't think to take pictures at the time.
Trial fit quickly showed where the interference was, and what needed to be done to make the cover fit. Wasn't that difficult; just trial and error till it fit the way I wanted.
Next time I have the car on a lift, I'll take some pictures.
You get what you pay for, clearly no quality inspection after welding, cost me $100 to get that weld ground down in the middle of install, luckily the headers were fine tho
You get what you pay for, clearly no quality inspection after welding, cost me $100 to get that weld ground down in the middle of install, luckily the headers were fine tho
I had the same issue on a couple of the sensor threads.
Sorry guys for the issue. $100 to grind a weld is pretty rough. I haven't heard from anyone having that issue, but I'll surely check into it first thing in the morning.
You know staring you get what you paid for is a little rough. What you paid is just a extremely fair price for the a very well designed header system that I would put up against any system on the market. At any price!!
Not only that you get the support of the largest Ls/lt shop in the country. All you have to do is give us a call and we would have helped asap! we sell all brands of headers and believe me nobody is perfect. I've seen plenty of crazy high $ headers with issues. What separates the companies is how they help to solve those problems. A quick phone call and we would gladly jump to action to help in any way we can!
Nobody should have charged you $100 to use a grinder for a few seconds, was that just a joke???calling the headers out on you get what you pay for isn't real fair if someone charged $100 to use a air grinder for a few seconds. If headers went off that math the headers would cost a million dollars!
Originally Posted by crazybiker51
You get what you pay for, clearly no quality inspection after welding, cost me $100 to get that weld ground down in the middle of install, luckily the headers were fine tho
Last edited by Jason 98 TA; May 3, 2015 at 11:44 PM.