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I have few of them, anyone interested PM me. Ant is using one of mine too. The boards are fully equipped and tested. I can supply also connectors.
npp control board , connectors, and fuse bypass
This kit works, I bought mine from this guy, board connectors and all.
I have few of them, anyone interested PM me. Ant is using one of mine too. The boards are fully equipped and tested. I can supply also connectors.
npp control board , connectors, and fuse bypass
Wow awesome. I didn't know you still had a few left!
I am currently working on a new controller which will require no installation of switched. It is controlled from an Android Phone (and maybe iPhone in the future) using bluetooth.
This is an early prototype simple to prove the system works. I have nearly everything I need to build a working prototype except for the 5 pin plugs.
Here is a video of my proof of concept and is where I am at so far. It is fully functional but not practical and far from pretty.
I am currently working on a new controller which will require no installation of switched. It is controlled from an Android Phone (and maybe iPhone in the future) using bluetooth.
This is an early prototype simple to proof the system works. I have nearly everything I need to build a working prototype except for the 5 pin plugs.
Here is a video of my proof of concept and is where I am at so far. It is fully functional but not practical and far from pretty. https://youtu.be/jodcE-Cxfoo
The biggest challenge with this is (I have a true retrofit so speaking from experience) is that in order to be able to start the car up with the valves closed you have to use either always hot power and remember to turn the valves on before start up (and off after you park the car) or you have to find an switches accessory power source and then you have to go through the whole process once the power is on.
I had mine on the first setup with always hot power and it was hard switched with a toggle switch by my right leg. If I forgot to turn it off, it would obviously kill the battery. Except for the high pitched sound you get from the valves having power running to them you would sometimes not even notice the were on (closed position). The same sound I hear in you clip when you activate them.
Where are you planning to tap in to power for this since there is no existing wiring for you to tap in to? Also I would recommend not tapping in to the 20A fuse for the 12V accessory plug as many are already tapping that for their methanol systems.
The biggest challenge with this is (I have a true retrofit so speaking from experience) is that in order to be able to start the car up with the valves closed you have to use either always hot power and remember to turn the valves on before start up (and off after you park the car) or you have to find an switches accessory power source and then you have to go through the whole process once the power is on.
Where are you planning to tap in to power for this since there is no existing wiring for you to tap in to? Also I would recommend not tapping in to the 20A fuse for the 12V accessory plug as many are already tapping that for their methanol systems.
I have done some testing on the valve and it appears to draw about 2-3 amps during the close operation but does not draw much power holding it closed. There are a number of options I can play with. One would be to tap directly off the battery and run a replay off the accessory to switch battery power on and off. The relay will draw very little power, less than 50mA from the accessory and the relay will supply battery power directly to the circuit.
For me, I will simple tap off the accessory power as I don't draw much current there. But if this causes a problem, the above method could be used. It's personal preference where people tap their power from and will be different for different vehicles. I plan to have the ability to set via Bluetooth to ability to power up using the previous valve state, or power up with the valve closed, or power up with the valve open (Saved in the Arduino EEPROM). All this is planned and not implemented yet. I have simply designed a basic circuit and Arduino code to control the valve to prove the it will work. Obviously this project is in its very early days, but I think the end result will work out great.
I am currently working on a new controller which will require no installation of switched. It is controlled from an Android Phone (and maybe iPhone in the future) using bluetooth.
This is an early prototype simple to proof the system works. I have nearly everything I need to build a working prototype except for the 5 pin plugs.
Here is a video of my proof of concept and is where I am at so far. It is fully functional but not practical and far from pretty. https://youtu.be/jodcE-Cxfoo
Wow awesome. I didn't know you still had a few left!
Got very excited when I saw post that there is still some left.
I tried to PM about it but it says Smola's PM storage is full. I can see why haha
Is it still possible to get my hands on one of these brilliant kits?
Got very excited when I saw post that there is still some left.
I tried to PM about it but it says Smola's PM storage is full. I can see why haha
Is it still possible to get my hands on one of these brilliant kits?
If you don’t get ahold of him within a week, PM me and let me know. I can ping him via email.
FYI for those interested in building a breadboard circuit. I think I discovered a discrepancy between the circuit schematic diagram and the breadboard layout. I built a breadboard according to the schematic and could not get it to work (measuring frequency with an oscilloscope), so I reviewed the first breadboard design and discovered that the duty cycle resistors connect to the +10 volt line rather than the 10k resistor as shown on the schematic. I made the change and it worked great. PM me if you'd like more details.
FYI for those interested in building a breadboard circuit. I think I discovered a discrepancy between the circuit schematic diagram and the breadboard layout. I built a breadboard according to the schematic and could not get it to work (measuring frequency with an oscilloscope), so I reviewed the first breadboard design and discovered that the duty cycle resistors connect to the +10 volt line rather than the 10k resistor as shown on the schematic. I made the change and it worked great. PM me if you'd like more details.
Are you able to build a couple for forum members by chance? I know several have mentioned they would like to buy a “plug and play” retrofit setup.
Are you able to build a couple for forum members by chance? I know several have mentioned they would like to buy a “plug and play” retrofit setup.
I may be one of those said members. Or if you did have a schematic and bill of material handy then I could wire it. I'm an Industrial Engineer who took Circuits and Physics. And yes Ant, I still have my Z06 mufflers that I have not mounted and I still want to
I can provide the schematic and BOM. All parts are available on Amazon except the valve connectors which are available at DigiKey or similar electronic parts suppliers. Access to an oscilloscope to test the performance is recommended. An inexpensive one that I use (Hantek HT6022BE20Mhz) is also available on Amazon. As soon as I complete, I'll post the parts list and schematic.
This is the breadboard layout provided by Theta that I used.
11-15-2017, 03:59 AM
Much appreciated 
