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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 02:28 PM
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Default So how much is too much?

It's been less than 2 weeks and I can already tell I'd like a bit more power.

The bad thing is its not expensive to do it so that makes me want to do it more.

But how much is too much from a drivability standpoint? One of my employee's really wanted to drive my car and I told him it would have to be before I put the SC on it because I was really expecting to be more like skating on ice under 40-50 mph.

I'd put anyone in the driver seat and let them drive it now. The car is so controllable and traction is great. Even in the corners you can lay into it pretty hard and it holds the road pretty well.

In Track mode PTM 2 I can go through 1st and 2nd with no wheel spin if the weather is over 70 degree's which makes the car very enjoyable to drive since you do not need to pedal it.

I swear it has more traction now than before. I'm sure I'm spinning the tires a bit but it doesn't feel like it.

Now with wanting more power how much is going to be too much where the car's power overwhelms its traction?

I had settled on getting R888's before but its perfectly fine with the ZP's and I'd take it cross country. If I add another 60-70 ft lbs of torque is it going to be like that?

If its not how far can you go? I can do headers and meth, or just headers.

I am planning for a wide body this winter, how much will those 12" wide wheels help?
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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You can do 11.5" wheel and 325-30-19s on the rear without doing a wide body kit. CCW has a package with Toyo R888s. Another forum member has already done the package on a Z51 and is happy with it. No brake duct mods were required.

Are you thinking of headers, cam, and meth for 700? Just curious as I am planning what to do with the wife's Z51 next time she travels out of the country, lol. When she returns, she'll be asking what the whooshing sound is.
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Old Jul 18, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by uxojerry
You can do 11.5" wheel and 325-30-19s on the rear without doing a wide body kit. CCW has a package with Toyo R888s. Another forum member has already done the package on a Z51 and is happy with it. No brake duct mods were required.

Are you thinking of headers, cam, and meth for 700? Just curious as I am planning what to do with the wife's Z51 next time she travels out of the country, lol. When she returns, she'll be asking what the whooshing sound is.
I'm not sure. First step is I'm going to take it to the track and see what it runs MPH wise.

I'd like to hit 130-133 in the 1/4. Looking at the Fast List it seems I need headers. Slowest car was 129 with just a kit/headers, and the fastest without getting too crazy was 134 with headers and meth, both ECS kits.

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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by uxojerry
You can do 11.5" wheel and 325-30-19s on the rear without doing a wide body kit. CCW has a package with Toyo R888s. Another forum member has already done the package on a Z51 and is happy with it. No brake duct mods were required.

Are you thinking of headers, cam, and meth for 700? Just curious as I am planning what to do with the wife's Z51 next time she travels out of the country, lol. When she returns, she'll be asking what the whooshing sound is.
Jerry is that because the R888 run small? Can you for a 19 inch pilot super sport in 325 with an 11.5 inch rear rims? If I can't fit a 325 it looks like they make a 315. I'd like to go wider than a 295 in the rear.

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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 11:17 AM
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My last car was 654 whp on pump gas and 771 whp on 110 octane. Looking back that was too much, even the pump gas tune. I had Nitto INVO's and they had zero chance of hooking, if you put a novice in that car they would wreck it for sure. Even on Mickey Thompson ET Streets 305/35-18 it wouldn't hook very well below 30 mph.

Among other obvious things I like about the C7 one of them is no doubt the traction and holding the road, I plan to do headers and an intake but as far as street driving I don't think I want to go much more. That's another reason I'm such a fan of nitrous; I can put the bottle in and go to the track and have fun, make another 150-200 hp, and when I leave I can take the bottle out and keep all the driveability, cooling, gas mileage, and reliability of a stock-ish car while I drive on the street.

I guess that post really doesn't answer your question other than this, once you go too far you will look back and wish you stopped.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 10mm_
My last car was 654 whp on pump gas and 771 whp on 110 octane. Looking back that was too much, even the pump gas tune. I had Nitto INVO's and they had zero chance of hooking, if you put a novice in that car they would wreck it for sure. Even on Mickey Thompson ET Streets 305/35-18 it wouldn't hook very well below 30 mph.

Among other obvious things I like about the C7 one of them is no doubt the traction and holding the road, I plan to do headers and an intake but as far as street driving I don't think I want to go much more. That's another reason I'm such a fan of nitrous; I can put the bottle in and go to the track and have fun, make another 150-200 hp, and when I leave I can take the bottle out and keep all the driveability, cooling, gas mileage, and reliability of a stock-ish car while I drive on the street.

I guess that post really doesn't answer your question other than this, once you go too far you will look back and wish you stopped.
My question is in regards to a C7, not another car.

My old car at 620rwhp won't hold with drag radials but the C7 does.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
My question is in regards to a C7, not another car.

My old car at 620rwhp won't hold with drag radials but the C7 does.
My car with 675rwhp s/c + meth (no headers) gets traction in 2nd gear on most roads if its over 75* with stock tires (or spins a little but very controllable not going sideways...). I wouldn't have any concerns taking it cross country if taking it easy so I don't get caught out of meth. MPG, low rpm driveability, etc. is all about the same as when it was stock.

All that being said I wouldn't let someone not used to a high hp car drive it, any car that can spin 1st and/or 2nd hard is asking for a novice to wreck it.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 04:24 PM
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The new ECMs are great, you can detune them very easily, limit the throttle opening below an RPM, etc. You can make it 2000 HP over 3500 RPMs and 200 HP under. Don't limit yourself on the airflow and fuel part of it. Use the technology!
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
The new ECMs are great, you can detune them very easily, limit the throttle opening below an RPM, etc. You can make it 2000 HP over 3500 RPMs and 200 HP under. Don't limit yourself on the airflow and fuel part of it. Use the technology!
So true - you can even do luls/dips at 'tweener' RPMs if you were so inclined.

The higher the HP level seems to cause people to assume less drivability, when in reality, the E92 can be made to simulate a completely stock car until boost/meth comes on at 3500 or wherever you'd like to set it.

Very cool platform, even with a big block and tons of off-idle torque. Mike has fine-tuned the first few gears for throttle response/ramp-up so that you don't just sit and spin... Wait, that's sounds wrong.

Same with the top gears - 5th through 7th are just highway gears for me, and I can make 24-25mpg without breaking a sweat (obviously without AFM or DoD, and a 416 with all the goodies as you all know). I average 10-12mpg playing in 1-4, though.

.

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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
So true - you can even do luls/dips at 'tweener' RPMs if you were so inclined.

The higher the HP level seems to cause people to assume less drivability, when in reality, the E92 can be made to simulate a completely stock car until boost/meth comes on at 3500 or wherever you'd like to set it.

Very cool platform, even with a big block and tons of off-idle torque. Mike has fine-tuned the first few gears for throttle response/ramp-up so that you don't just sit and spin... Wait, that's sounds wrong.

Same with the top gears - 5th through 7th are just highway gears for me, and I can make 24-25mpg without breaking a sweat (obviously without AFM or DoD, and a 416 with all the goodies as you all know). I average 10-12mpg playing in 1-4, though.

.

That is not what I wanted to hear

Sounds like headers and meth are coming...now if they could include steering wheel angle into that it would be an awesome system.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
now if they could include steering wheel angle into that it would be an awesome system.
It's handled in the CCM, I believe. I'd need to look at that, but since it's altered by the mode selection, it's either going to be the BCM or CCM.

Anyway, something to hope for in the future, even though it's dangerous to start tinkering with steering rates.
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Old Jul 20, 2015 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
It's handled in the CCM, I believe. I'd need to look at that, but since it's altered by the mode selection, it's either going to be the BCM or CCM.

Anyway, something to hope for in the future, even though it's dangerous to start tinkering with steering rates.
I was more looking at high speed, WOT sweeping corners. I thought about that today getting on the freeway. Decent angle/curve and I did it at WOT in 3rd gear, car squirmed a bit but wasn't bad.

First thought was with another 50ft lbs I'd have to be more careful.

So looking at angle, G's, throttle, all that stuff and predict a power map based on it. I'm sure its done at some measure.

When Chrysler was first looking at variable steering we had a test car with a **** on the dash...no real limits one way or the other but you learned to be careful how far you turned it very quickly.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NoOne
It's been less than 2 weeks and I can already tell I'd like a bit more power.

The bad thing is its not expensive to do it so that makes me want to do it more.

But how much is too much from a drivability standpoint? One of my employee's really wanted to drive my car and I told him it would have to be before I put the SC on it because I was really expecting to be more like skating on ice under 40-50 mph.

I'd put anyone in the driver seat and let them drive it now. The car is so controllable and traction is great. Even in the corners you can lay into it pretty hard and it holds the road pretty well.

In Track mode PTM 2 I can go through 1st and 2nd with no wheel spin if the weather is over 70 degree's which makes the car very enjoyable to drive since you do not need to pedal it.

I swear it has more traction now than before. I'm sure I'm spinning the tires a bit but it doesn't feel like it.

Now with wanting more power how much is going to be too much where the car's power overwhelms its traction?

I had settled on getting R888's before but its perfectly fine with the ZP's and I'd take it cross country. If I add another 60-70 ft lbs of torque is it going to be like that?

If its not how far can you go? I can do headers and meth, or just headers.

I am planning for a wide body this winter, how much will those 12" wide wheels help?
I have a centrifugal supercharger (ECS) with conservative tune making 550 RWHP. The car drives like stock off boost and power delivery is smooth and predictable. The stock tires offer sufficient traction in warm weather (60F). I have had the car out in like 25F degree weather and you really just needed to be careful in 1st gear and from standing start. I have gotten the tail to wag a bit, but never felt any risk of spinning it in tour, sport, or track mode. I haven't tried launch mode and usually roll into starts, more to protect drive train than fear of spinning out. I had ECS do the install and tune. Doug and Chris are amazing and the car could probably take more abuse with this tune. I have the A6.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dironvictorious
I have a centrifugal supercharger (ECS) with conservative tune making 550 RWHP. The car drives like stock off boost and power delivery is smooth and predictable. The stock tires offer sufficient traction in warm weather (60F). I have had the car out in like 25F degree weather and you really just needed to be careful in 1st gear and from standing start. I have gotten the tail to wag a bit, but never felt any risk of spinning it in tour, sport, or track mode. I haven't tried launch mode and usually roll into starts, more to protect drive train than fear of spinning out. I had ECS do the install and tune. Doug and Chris are amazing and the car could probably take more abuse with this tune. I have the A6.
I'll join in on that - the 550whp-600whp mark really keeps the car feeling like a normal street car with more power on tap.

For a majority of people out there (without proper driving instruction and experience), 650whp is about the top of where you feel like the car is still a daily-driver, stock-mannered C7.

Past that, they become a whole lot more fun, with the caveat that you need to be a lot more aware of everything you're doing, and making sure your supporting mods are in order. Rubber being one of the largest... Nothing worse than having the rear step out on you at 65mph goosing it on the freeway with the wrong set of tires.

I was lucky enough to be able to feel the difference between stock, tuned, tuned + bolt-ons, tuned + blot-ons + ECS @ 8psi, and finally the monster it became. It's interesting transformation for sure!
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dironvictorious
I have a centrifugal supercharger (ECS) with conservative tune making 550 RWHP. The car drives like stock off boost and power delivery is smooth and predictable. The stock tires offer sufficient traction in warm weather (60F). I have had the car out in like 25F degree weather and you really just needed to be careful in 1st gear and from standing start. I have gotten the tail to wag a bit, but never felt any risk of spinning it in tour, sport, or track mode. I haven't tried launch mode and usually roll into starts, more to protect drive train than fear of spinning out. I had ECS do the install and tune. Doug and Chris are amazing and the car could probably take more abuse with this tune. I have the A6.
Have you ever raced a c6 z06, c7 z06 or c6 zr1 with your car either on a track or in "mexico" ?
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta

Past that, they become a whole lot more fun, with the caveat that you need to be a lot more aware of everything you're doing, and making sure your supporting mods are in order. Rubber being one of the largest... Nothing worse than having the rear step out on you at 65mph goosing it on the freeway with the wrong set of tires.

I was lucky enough to be able to feel the difference between stock, tuned, tuned + bolt-ons, tuned + blot-ons + ECS @ 8psi, and finally the monster it became. It's interesting transformation for sure!
Well I'm going to see what happens at 650rwhp.

I've had a lot of track experience in a lot of different cars so the power does not bug me too much to drive. But I don't want the power to take away from the car which is why I won't change the cam.

On my 500rwhp C5 I had a VERY slow leak on one of the bungs for the ABS block. So it would drip maybe 3-4 drops over the course of a day and puddle up.

At 80mph where it pooled it would spray on the back tire, it was fun for the week before I fixed it and scared the living crap out of anyone in the car.

It was just enough to cause the tire to slip hard for maybe 15-20 ft, wheeee

I am more interested though in seeing what can be done with the ECU. I'd say the car will take a bit more torque in 1st and 2nd, not much. Pavement needs to be pretty good, that crushed smooth stone it slips pretty hard in 1st, other than that its OK.

I'd like a little more power from where I am, then even more in 3rd/4th. Is it gear based or speed based?

Can the tune be adjusted in a way where its not full tilt unless in Track or a particular PTM mode?

How much tie in is there between PTM modes and ECU tuning?
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 08:52 PM
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You can adjust throttle opening rates and maximum opening amounts based on mode. You can do it by MPH and/or RPM.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Theta
I'll join in on that - the 550whp-600whp mark really keeps the car feeling like a normal street car with more power on tap.

For a majority of people out there (without proper driving instruction and experience), 650whp is about the top of where you feel like the car is still a daily-driver, stock-mannered C7.

Past that, they become a whole lot more fun, with the caveat that you need to be a lot more aware of everything you're doing, and making sure your supporting mods are in order. Rubber being one of the largest... Nothing worse than having the rear step out on you at 65mph goosing it on the freeway with the wrong set of tires.

I was lucky enough to be able to feel the difference between stock, tuned, tuned + bolt-ons, tuned + blot-ons + ECS @ 8psi, and finally the monster it became. It's interesting transformation for sure!
I am running the restrictor plate (7PSI) on stock manifolds. If the car stops exciting me there is always headers and moving up to 8PSI. I don't want to do to meth injection, so 8-9PSI is probably the max on 93 octane.
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Old Jul 21, 2015 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by thegame
Have you ever raced a c6 z06, c7 z06 or c6 zr1 with your car either on a track or in "mexico" ?
I played a little bit with a new C7 Zo6 convertible. This wasn't a race by any means and was at low speeds, but my car seemed at least as fast. This makes sense given less weight and probably making similar crank horsepower 640-650HP.

Last edited by dironvictorious; Jul 22, 2015 at 09:46 AM.
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