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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 12:47 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by RussM05
Another tip.

When you are removing the nuts from the exhaust pipe where it attaches to the cast iron manifold, make sure the deep socket is completely seated. If you round off the nuts, it's a real pain to cut them off. I know.........
How did you cut them off? I just did exactly that.
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Old Jun 19, 2019 | 08:23 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jake Bednarz
How did you cut them off? I just did exactly that.
If you did that on the drivers side you can slip the whole thing out of the bottom, cat and manifold together. The passenger side I probably could have slipped out but I ended up getting all 4 bolts off. Did you remove the starter? Or at least remove the starter wire and heat shield?
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Old Jun 20, 2019 | 11:37 AM
  #23  
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[QUOTE=CRNA15;1599608897]If you did that on the drivers side you can slip the whole thing out of the bottom, cat and manifold together. The passenger side I probably could have slipped out but I ended up getting all 4 bolts off. Did you remove the starter? Or at least remove the starter wire and heat shield?[/QUOTE

I ended up getting it off using the “double nut” method and to take the stud out with the nut. Thank for the suggestion about the drivers side, maybe I’ll save some time and just take the whole thing out as one piece.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 06:16 AM
  #24  
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Anyone know the torque specs for the header bolts?

does the rear o2 need to be threaded in too? Box came with o2 extension harness.

Drivers factory manifold and cat can be removed together passenger car needs to be unbolted from manifold correct? I got 2” kooks, with 8 vibrant plug wire sleeves and OEM GM gaskets.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 01:02 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Silverboost
One other tip I learned after I installed mine is use a impact to remove the power wire on back of the fuse box. I couldn't get mine off and broke the plastic tab that holds it on trying to get it loose with a ratchet. I ended up leaving the power wire on and slightly moving the fuse box to get access to the manifolds. I have heard of other people using a impact and the nut comes of easily.
I just did this tonight. Did you end up replacing this portion of the fuse box?

It looks like to replace this the entire box has to be purchased?

https://www.gmgenuinedirectparts.com...bC12OC1nYXM%3D
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by slow4mula
I just did this tonight. Did you end up replacing this portion of the fuse box?

It looks like to replace this the entire box has to be purchased?

https://www.gmgenuinedirectparts.com...bC12OC1nYXM%3D
If you unfortunately broke that power tab on the fuse box you’ll need the whole assembly. Even worse news is gm no longer makes it. You may get luck and find old inventory somewhere. I recently installed headers for someone who had cross threaded that stud and forced it on. I had to replace the box and ended up having to get a used one. Www.car-part.com
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 06:50 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ss2z06
If you unfortunately broke that power tab on the fuse box you’ll need the whole assembly. Even worse news is gm no longer makes it. You may get luck and find old inventory somewhere. I recently installed headers for someone who had cross threaded that stud and forced it on. I had to replace the box and ended up having to get a used one. Www.car-part.com
Hmm thanks for the reply. I actually bought the assembly I posted in the link last night which on that site says it replaces '23189699' which is the part number on mine that I broke (the part with the side handles that fold in). I hope/think this will work even though I don't need the entire assembly just the middle part with the latches where the two leads connect. Any reason you don't think buying the assembly in the link won't work?

I saw some used assemblies with the same part number from mine but they all looked beat up so I opted for a new OEM assembly.

I'm not sure what fuses come with the entire assembly but whatever is missing I plan to just transplant into the new assembly basically have it match existing and then drop the entire new assembly in the car.

Either way I think this is a bs design echoing the comments of others in multiple threads about this fuse box connection. It really seems like GM designed this to be something that should never require to be removed or just totally missed the ball on the strength of this connection. People shouldn't have to worry about breaking this thing so easily and maybe requiring 200-300 dollar impacts to usually get this nut off without damage.

Last edited by slow4mula; Apr 25, 2021 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by slow4mula
Hmm thanks for the reply. I actually bought the assembly I posted in the link last night which on that site says it replaces '23189699' which is the part number on mine that I broke (the part with the side handles that fold in). I hope/think this will work even though I don't need the entire assembly just the middle part with the latches where the two leads connect. Any reason you don't think buying the assembly in the link won't work?

I saw some used assemblies with the same part number from mine but they all looked beat up so I opted for a new OEM assembly.

I'm not sure what fuses come with the entire assembly but whatever is missing I plan to just transplant into the new assembly basically have it match existing and then drop the entire new assembly in the car.

that is what you need. Hopefully they actually have one. A lot of those sites work by advertising the part but don’t actually have it. They then get it from a gm warehouse and sell to you. Unless something has changed in the last 6-8 weeks it’s not actually available.

Last edited by ss2z06; Apr 25, 2021 at 06:58 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2021 | 07:04 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ss2z06
that is what you need. Hopefully they actually have one. A lot of those sites work by advertising the part but don’t actually have it. They then get it from a gm warehouse and sell to you. Unless something has changed in the last 6-8 weeks it’s not actually available.
gotcha thanks for the clarification...hopefully they can locate one I will reply in this thread if they indeed ship one out and what happens. I personally don't think this nut was coming off without breaking off this tab in my case no matter what magical impact or lubrication was used. I only got the damn nut off after I proceeded to break it clean off, by using a 14mm open end on the diamond shaped bottom side with the top section pipe of my 3 ton jack over it, and an impact on the top nut. A few seconds of that finally broke it loose. Crap design no matter how you shake it unless they plan for that nut to never be removed.

If some people can take it off with just a ratchet without destroying it then I was I was one of those people lol.

Last edited by slow4mula; Apr 25, 2021 at 07:07 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2021 | 09:38 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by slow4mula
I just did this tonight. Did you end up replacing this portion of the fuse box?

It looks like to replace this the entire box has to be purchased?

https://www.gmgenuinedirectparts.com...bC12OC1nYXM%3D
The power connector was slightly torn when I originally did the headers. Later on I changed plugs in the car and tried to loosen the nut again and it broke completely off. I purchased a complete new fuse box on ebay for $125 or so. I was surprised it wasn't more than that. It came with all the fuses and relays installed. Just the fuses and relays would cost that if bought separately.
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Old Apr 27, 2021 | 11:05 AM
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That's a great deal!
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Old Apr 27, 2021 | 01:28 PM
  #32  
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I think I found the section of the fuse box I need to replace with the fuses/tab/handle for $110 bucks. So far the new one I linked is probably a no go like you said there's been no movement since purchasing it. Kinda scary if they quit producing these because they are in 2014-2019 models. Maybe it's just another thing affected by COVID (probably).
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Old May 4, 2021 | 01:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ss2z06
that is what you need. Hopefully they actually have one. A lot of those sites work by advertising the part but don’t actually have it. They then get it from a gm warehouse and sell to you. Unless something has changed in the last 6-8 weeks it’s not actually available.
The link I posted in this thread actually worked for buying a new fuse box. It came last thursday which I didn't realize until friday since all the emails they were sending me for tracking etc. were going to my spam folder. Anyway I installed it and all is good the car has been back on the road since friday. I did notice there were a a couple additional small fuses in the new fuse box but I just left them installed and all has been well. Maybe they were just out of stock back when you tried to purchase.

I actually bought three fuse boxes...the brand new one, one used off ebay, and another used one from that car-part.com site. I'll keep a spare and sell the other one. Someone PM me if you stumble upon this thread and need a fuse box I will just sell it for what I paid.

Last edited by slow4mula; May 4, 2021 at 02:00 PM.
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Old May 4, 2021 | 02:08 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by slow4mula
The link I posted in this thread actually worked for buying a new fuse box. It came last thursday which I didn't realize until friday since all the emails they were sending me for tracking etc. were going to my spam folder. Anyway I installed it and all is good the car has been back on the road since friday. I did notice there were a a couple additional small fuses in the new fuse box but I just left them installed and all has been well. Maybe they were just out of stock back when you tried to purchase.

I actually bought three fuse boxes...the brand new one, one used off ebay, and another used one from that car-part.com site. I'll keep a spare and sell the other one. Someone PM me if you stumble upon this thread and need a fuse box I will just sell it for what I paid.
LOL, well better to have an extra I guess. Glad you got it. The extra fuses are probably for options you don't have. i.e. elsd, conv, etc.
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