When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I purchased some ARH 2" headers and am trying to get a consensus on what needs to be done to install them on my Z51 M7. Most of the threads and videos I have seen give their own way of installing them. Here is what I have seen so far:
-Disconnect the battery
-Take the coil covers off of each valve cover
-Remove spark plug wires
-Remove spark plugs
-Remove heat shields from manifolds
-Remove manifolds
-Remove fuse box
-Remove oil lines for dry sump cars
-Remove starter instead of oil lines?
-Remove xpipe with cats
-If starter is left on remove starter heat sheild
-Use some kind of penetrant such as wd40 ahead of time to help loosen bolts and 02 sensors.
-Some put both headers in from underneath. Some put passengers in from the top.
-Install 02 sensors in new headers and plug them up before bolting them in.
Any additions, subtractions or suggestions for the above list?
Last edited by Silverboost; Jul 20, 2015 at 02:16 PM.
I think you pretty much have it.
Some have done it without removing the fuse box but I think it's better to have it out.
Here is a great video:
Originally Posted by Silverboost
I purchased some ARH 2" headers and am trying to get a consensus on what needs to be done to install them on my Z51 M7. Most of the threads and videos I have seen give their own way of installing them. Here is what I have seen so far:
-Disconnect the battery
-Take the coil covers off of each valve cover
-Remove spark plug wires
-Remove spark plugs
-Remove heat shields from manifolds
-Remove manifolds
-Remove fuse box
-Remove oil lines for dry sump cars
-Remove starter instead of oil lines?
-Remove xpipe with cats
-If starter is left on remove starter heat sheild
-Use some kind of penetrant such as wd40 ahead of time to help loosen bolts and 02 sensors.
-Some put both headers in from underneath. Some put passengers in from the top.
-Install 02 sensors in new headers and plug them up before bolting them in.
Any additions, subtractions or suggestions for the above list?
What about the header gaskets? The one thing ARH does recommend is using the supplied gaskets. In most every ls header install I have done the stock gaskets were the best option.
What about the header gaskets? The one thing ARH does recommend is using the supplied gaskets. In most every ls header install I have done the stock gaskets were the best option.
I used the supplied gaskets from AR. However I have read that some had leaks and reused stock gaskets to resolve. I'd inspect the stock ones and reuse them if they look good.
Removing the dry sump lines is very very easy. Just take them off. Wrap a rubber glove around the exposed lines and tie it with zip tie otherwise oil will drip out of the lines the whole time.
Use OE gaskets and Loctite blue on all the header bolts or they will back out. I used the ARH gaskets and no loctite and the bolts loosened and gaskets leaked. So I replaces the gaskets with OE and bought ARP header bolts then reinstalled using Locitit blue.
If you install the passenger side from the top, you have to remove the valve cover and loosen the alternator to get it out-of-the-way . We had to remove the starter also. Not difficult.
One other tip I learned after I installed mine is use a impact to remove the power wire on back of the fuse box. I couldn't get mine off and broke the plastic tab that holds it on trying to get it loose with a ratchet. I ended up leaving the power wire on and slightly moving the fuse box to get access to the manifolds. I have heard of other people using a impact and the nut comes of easily.
One other tip I learned after I installed mine is use a impact to remove the power wire on back of the fuse box. I couldn't get mine off and broke the plastic tab that holds it on trying to get it loose with a ratchet. I ended up leaving the power wire on and slightly moving the fuse box to get access to the manifolds. I have heard of other people using a impact and the nut comes of easily.
One trick I used to remove that nut was to soak it from the top of the stud with penetrating oil and let it sit for a while, then put your wrench on it and apply pressure, but not an excessive amount. Hold that pressure steady for a minute or so and as the oil does its work the nut will eventually break free.
When you are removing the nuts from the exhaust pipe where it attaches to the cast iron manifold, make sure the deep socket is completely seated. If you round off the nuts, it's a real pain to cut them off. I know.........
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15- '16-'17-‘18-‘19-'20-'21
NCM Lifetime Member
All of the above are the exact reason I am letting 21st Century do the install. I will bring my laptop, along with food and drink. Sit back and enjoy the festivities.
When you are removing the nuts from the exhaust pipe where it attaches to the cast iron manifold, make sure the deep socket is completely seated. If you round off the nuts, it's a real pain to cut them off. I know.........
Originally Posted by MikeyTX
All of the above are the exact reason I am letting 21st Century do the install. I will bring my laptop, along with food and drink. Sit back and enjoy the festivities.
Yep, I couldn't even fit the deep socket and ratchet onto one of those studs due to lack of clearance with the suspension member. I had to use an open end with a cheater extension and my feet up on the top for leverage. Not fun, but doable. After all is said and done, I too would opt for the lounge at the speed shop while they do the install...
Yep, I couldn't even fit the deep socket and ratchet onto one of those studs due to lack of clearance with the suspension member. I had to use an open end with a cheater extension and my feet up on the top for leverage. Not fun, but doable. After all is said and done, I too would opt for the lounge at the speed shop while they do the install...
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15- '16-'17-‘18-‘19-'20-'21
NCM Lifetime Member
Originally Posted by Jet Vet
Yep, I couldn't even fit the deep socket and ratchet onto one of those studs due to lack of clearance with the suspension member. I had to use an open end with a cheater extension and my feet up on the top for leverage. Not fun, but doable. After all is said and done, I too would opt for the lounge at the speed shop while they do the install...
I would just like to add some additional info that could possibly help the next member...
1. Before you thread any bolts through the header into the head, you should fit all of the slip fittings together on the entire exhaust and support it with a jack/ jack stands if you have more than what you are using to hold up the car.
2. Buy some spark plug wire sleeves(check the temp rating), in my case with the LG headers the plug wire boot is touching the header on both sides.
3. You don't need to remove the oil lines to remove the header, but you will need them removed to install the new header from the bottom.
4. The starter heat shield needed to be removed to install. While it was off, I added an additional heat barrier. The extra material can be used to cover the O2 extension wires.
interesting...Im doing mine today
U say re use the OE gaskets with ARH headers?
Also I have a set of LS headers studs from my c5...they seem to be correct thread and length not sure why ARP dont sell them for genV?