Need some advice, tips quickly as I will be bleeding my buddy's Z51 C7 brakes for track prep..

I won't do the ABS with the computer, just plain old bleeding.

Would like to know if there are two bleeder nuts on each rotor front and back.

Also, looks like you do RR/LR/RF/LF?? Is this with the tech II and just manually? That is, on the c6z06 it's RF and LR as one system, and the other two as the other, so you bleed as a pair. Not sure what order is best when doing it manually or if it really matters.

Will be using a pressure bleeder. The DIY thread says 25psi! That's high, is that really needed or can I go 15 as the bleeder recommends?


I've looked through stuff and can't get good answers to these possibly over-**** questions, but it would help me to know, so Thanks!.

 

Bleed the brakes starting with the right rear first. Bleed the inside screw first then the outside on each caliper. I use 10 pounds on the pressure bleeder. Although the book says to bleed Right Rear then Left Front then Left Rear and Right Front I have always followed the old way of bleeding from the longest to the shortest Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front and have not had a problem. But the book says to do it RR, LF, LR, RF.

bill

 

Thank you sir. Answers all my questions. I think the order in the book is because the two circuits are diaginol for safety in case one fails, so the car will still stop somewhat straight. And bleeding either way, as long as air doesn't get in from low res level, would accomplish the exact same thing, except you're bleeding the rear of each circuit first, then the front.

Cheers.

 

And don't forget to torque the 11mm bleed screw to 106 INCH pounds...not ft lbs. If you are going to change the pads, release the pressure on the air tank before you try to get the pads out. Yes I have been there.

 

Make sure you use torque specs on brake bleeders!! Some forum members have had issues with the bleeders not sealing, especially with painted calipers. I used post 9 below but without the second person pushing on brakes (never tried the two person method using a pressure bleeder??). Tracked VIR full coarse yesterday great results!! Replacing the stock DOT 3 with DOT 4 racing fluid like MOTUL RBF 600 or better is a no brainer. If you need pads/ fluid I suggest KNSBrakes a great forum member.



This is helpful info from Theta.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ure-specs.html

 

pump it up and gravity bleed, if cant get flow then get someone to hold pedal down a couple times. Still the best, easiest, no fluff way to bleed brakes. The diagonal thing is the way it should be done not that the old way wont work but it just makes since. The RR and LF are on the same fluid path. And the lr-rf are to. Bleed one path flow at a time and then the other. You can go to all the trouble of air pressure bleeding but its messy and can screw up as well. I can gravity bleed a system perfect with zero air in ten minutes. No mes not cleanup just right. paul

 

Thanks.

I can't believe that when you open a bleeder screw to gravity it doesn't leak around the threads. But I suppose with no pressure but gravity it goes out the hole.. My Z06 leaks a ton when pressure bleeding or 2-man pumping (no laughing people). We used the pressure bleeding and it went just fine, and I think there is an advantage to each system. Pressure bleeding is fast and one person, but has a lot of possible contamination potential (like from the grease on the pump that comes with the system). The pressure sure did push a lot of little particles out rapidly. Not sure these would come by gravity, but never tried it.

tips I learned: I use a 6point socket to loosen all bleeder bolts as the open end ones can strip if they are on tight. I did do RR/LF/LR/RF. His clutch fluid was as bad as mine was at 13K miles... Some vette stuff doesn't change...

Oh, and the car ran great at the track. It isn't a c6z06, but the new C7 stingray (I first drove it on the track, the way it should be!) is a beauty. The brakes were adequate. The 7 sp manual was hard to get used to and no, no car needs 7 forward gears. I challenge anyone to find a track where 6 is needed, much less 7.. So 2 "overdrive" gears for the hwy?? Really? But really, a super nice happy fun ride compared to my bruiser Z... And almost as quick.


Oh, and we put those cooling rings on... and between that and the unicorn tears we spritzed on them, not sure which cools the brakes more..


Thanks for the helpful posts above.