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Hi guys, first time posting and I would like to know if anyone here can provide input on an issue I'm having with my 2014 Stingray. It currently has 7k miles and I have been having the battery drain every couple of days. I have taken it to my local dealerships service dept. for the fourth time yesterday and they still are not sure what the problem is. The last time I brought it in the service dept. emailed GM directly and were told to replace a module that they had issues and said that would resolve the issue, I took the car home and it lasted 3 days before it died again. I jump started it and drove it for a couple hours and after I shut it off the battery died within 3 hours. I purchased the car from the second owner and not directly from a Chevrolet dealer but started to have this problem 4 months after purchasing. I would appreciate any advice or help as it is getting very frustrating not being able to drive my vette
To locate the circuit of the drain, pull fuses and put a volt meter across the terminals. Anything more than a .2 amps should be investigated.
Before I would do that, pull the ground battery cable and put a volt meter between the post and the cable. Anything more than a couple of amp says there is a problem. Not sure if it's one or two amps is OK. Sounds like you have a major drain, so it should show 5 or more amps. Less than 1 amp should be OK. Maybe others can give you more specific normal amps.
To locate the circuit of the drain, pull fuses and put a volt meter across the terminals. Anything more than a .2 amps should be investigated.
Before I would do that, pull the ground battery cable and put a volt meter between the post and the cable. Anything more than a couple of amp says there is a problem. Not sure if it's one or two amps is OK. Sounds like you have a major drain, so it should show 5 or more amps. Less than 1 amp should be OK. Maybe others can give you more specific normal amps.
Elec problems is a pain in the azz but if he does what you have said with the ground cable, Will tell you if you have a bad drain, Then like you have said you will just have to pull fuse at a time until getting a low amp reading. Then you have to run down every thing on that on fuse panel.
ARE YOU CAN JUST PULL THAT ONE FUSE EVERY TIME YOU GET OUT OF THE CAR. Just kidding man these elec drains are really a big pain...
Since you purchased the vehicle used, you don't know the history of the battery. It's possible the previous owner allowed the battery to go dead which would shorten it's lifespan.
Thanks guys, I'll try this tomorrow and give an update on what the volt meter says.
Must use Amp meter in series with ground cable to measure drain and pin it down to a culprit. Charge the battery up and leave it disconnected, if it still runs down, get a new one
I worked at a battery company, so the bottom line is batteries are not reliable. But check to see if anything is drawing above an acceptable amount of current.
Jim Barker is correct. Use a DVM OR multi meter set to amps and bridge it between the negative battery post and the cable. Over 2 amps, means something is drawing too much current (I think). A good battery normally will also show 12.8+ volts charged.
I would bet the battery is bad after the numerous total discharges.
You can Google lead acid battery for more in depth info how batteries work (or don't).
I don't think we've had to worry about DBS since 2006. They fixed it.
Good advice on the mods. Check to see if the previous owner added something. Radio, curb alert, anything electrical added can be the problem. If you have a way to contact the previous owner, ask if there are any hidden mods that were added.
Then you can check on battery drain. I'd be suspect of that car battery as being toast from going dead so often. One session of "dead" is enough to permanently kill a battery even if it recharges. The recharge is fleeting and won't maintain the voltage to start the car.
I don't think we've had to worry about DBS since 2006. They fixed it.
Good advice on the mods. Check to see if the previous owner added something. Radio, curb alert, anything electrical added can be the problem. If you have a way to contact the previous owner, ask if there are any hidden mods that were added.
Then you can check on battery drain. I'd be suspect of that car battery as being toast from going dead so often. One session of "dead" is enough to permanently kill a battery even if it recharges. The recharge is fleeting and won't maintain the voltage to start the car.
Elmer
My 2005 had DBS, finally fixed with a software upgrade after 2-3 years. There has been so little new technology with lead/acid batteries about as far back as I can remember. I wonder when the whole world wil have lithium batteries under the hood?
My 2005 had DBS, finally fixed with a software upgrade after 2-3 years. There has been so little new technology with lead/acid batteries about as far back as I can remember. I wonder when the whole world wil have lithium batteries under the hood?
My 2005 had DBS, finally fixed with a software upgrade after 2-3 years. There has been so little new technology with lead/acid batteries about as far back as I can remember. I wonder when the whole world wil have lithium batteries under the hood?
The answer is Li-Ion cost a lot more. Would you pay $1051 for a Li-Battery?
See Jegs:
Lithium Pros L3420R - Lithium Pros 12-Volt Lithium Batteries Details
12V Batteries
12.8 volts
Full battery management system
Fully compatible with alternator (14.6V max)
BCI Group 34 size to replace 34, 48, and 49 sizes
Available in positive left and right hand
Equivalent to a 60Ah lead acid battery
Length: 10.24''
Height: 7.2''
Width: 6.93''
Charge Volts (max/alternator): 14.6
Charge Amps (normal/max): 80
The answer is Li-Ion cost a lot more. Would you pay $1051 for a Li-Battery?
See Jegs:
Lithium Pros L3420R - Lithium Pros 12-Volt Lithium Batteries Details
12V Batteries
12.8 volts
Full battery management system
Fully compatible with alternator (14.6V max)
BCI Group 34 size to replace 34, 48, and 49 sizes
Available in positive left and right hand
Equivalent to a 60Ah lead acid battery
Length: 10.24''
Height: 7.2''
Width: 6.93''
Charge Volts (max/alternator): 14.6
Charge Amps (normal/max): 80
Not for that size and application. But I might for a house sized one like Tesla is selling.
No doubt the price of 12V Li ion automobile batteries will get cheaper moving forward.
Not for that size and application. But I might for a house sized one like Tesla is selling.
No doubt the price of 12V Li ion automobile batteries will get cheaper moving forward.
So, what does an equivalent Li-Ion battery cost today? All battery companies say they will be cheaper in the future. So what?
Sorry for the late response guys, I have been leaving the c7 plugged in to the battery maintainer if it's parked more than 2 days and haven't had an issue with the battery again. Although I saw the backlight on the Nav screen lit up for no reason a few times when I've walked past it in the garage. I need to purchase a volt meter to test for drains (no aftermarket parts installed).
Well. I have a new issue with it that it has done 3 times so far. Yesterday I parked it in my driveway when I got home from work, a few hours later I went to start it and when I press the start button I get nothing. It is not a dead battery, seems like it is not recognizing the key. I even inserted the key in the holder and get zero. Funny thing is I can start the car with the remote but it won't recognize the key when I hit the start button to disengage the automatic start. I ended up taking another car, and when I got back home a couple hours later I tried to start it and it started like a charm, Sheesh. It has done this 3 times in the last couple of weeks. Where should I start?
Sorry for the late response guys, I have been leaving the c7 plugged in to the battery maintainer if it's parked more than 2 days and haven't had an issue with the battery again. Although I saw the backlight on the Nav screen lit up for no reason a few times when I've walked past it in the garage. I need to purchase a volt meter to test for drains (no aftermarket parts installed).
Well. I have a new issue with it that it has done 3 times so far. Yesterday I parked it in my driveway when I got home from work, a few hours later I went to start it and when I press the start button I get nothing. It is not a dead battery, seems like it is not recognizing the key. I even inserted the key in the holder and get zero. Funny thing is I can start the car with the remote but it won't recognize the key when I hit the start button to disengage the automatic start. I ended up taking another car, and when I got back home a couple hours later I tried to start it and it started like a charm, Sheesh. It has done this 3 times in the last couple of weeks. Where should I start?
No RKE detected?
Did you put the RKE into the steering column slot and try to start the car?
You can figure out what the starting issue is. Take your time and go through each step. Make sure you don't have something causing interference on you or in the car.
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Nov 6, 2015 at 04:29 PM.
You can figure out what the starting issue is. Take your time and go through each step. Make sure you don't have something causing interference on you or in the car.
Elmer
Yes I did put the RKE in the steering column slot and it did nothing. I also tried using the second RKE and did nothing. Funny that after a couple of hours it will turn on fine. Could the RCDLR be bad if it just does it intermittently?