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Forged stock cube shortblock??

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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 06:17 PM
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Default Forged stock cube shortblock??

Plan is to go with a 2200r sc in the future want to go ahead and forge the bottom end. Just wanting to see what everyone is doing spec and price wise on these? I'm looking to get some nice forged Pistons (leaning towards wiseco) and some Callie's billet rods. Should I go "h" or "I" beams?
Been told stock crank is good? May push the car to 900-1000rwhp
Any advise/opinions are welcome thanks!!
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by kiley2418
Plan is to go with a 2200r sc in the future want to go ahead and forge the bottom end. Just wanting to see what everyone is doing spec and price wise on these? I'm looking to get some nice forged Pistons (leaning towards wiseco) and some Callie's billet rods. Should I go "h" or "I" beams?
Been told stock crank is good? May push the car to 900-1000rwhp
Any advise/opinions are welcome thanks!!
Go with the Wiseco has a new piston out big wrist pins great for a F/I set up plus always go with the I beam rods are the better stronger rod. Your stock crank will work good.

Give wiseco a call ask them about the new piston set they have for these c7 ls1. I was talking with them in sept at BG KY at the holley LS fest..

Last edited by robert miller; Oct 29, 2015 at 11:02 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 12:04 PM
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I could be wrong but I was told that the rods were also forged and just the pistons/rings are a little weak.

Last edited by jdarc1; Oct 30, 2015 at 12:05 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 12:17 PM
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Stock cubic inch is your best bet. Ive built and owned plenty of "strokers" but the stock CI engines always last longer. Less stroke, better rod/piston geometry, beefier pistons.


The Gen V block has the same issue as the LS block does when it comes to stroker cranks. At the bottom of the stroke the piston skirt actually comes out of the bore and it allows the piston to rock. This causes premature bearing, piston, and cylinder wall wear.


At the end of the day a stock ci vs a stroker will normally make the same peak power. The difference is that the stroker will make substantially more torque. This is a good or a bad thing, when it comes to getting traction on the street without a real tire, its a bad thing. No matter what you do, you will want to look into stepping down to a 18" rear wheel with a nice drag radial with some sidewall. 18 will clear the factory brakes and it will allow you a decent tire selection. I get a good chuckle when I see these guys trying to get traction on a 19/20" wheel, its a waste of money.

Last edited by SquatchMachining; Oct 30, 2015 at 12:19 PM.
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Old Oct 31, 2015 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SquatchMachining
Stock cubic inch is your best bet. Ive built and owned plenty of "strokers" but the stock CI engines always last longer. Less stroke, better rod/piston geometry, beefier pistons.


The Gen V block has the same issue as the LS block does when it comes to stroker cranks. At the bottom of the stroke the piston skirt actually comes out of the bore and it allows the piston to rock. This causes premature bearing, piston, and cylinder wall wear.


At the end of the day a stock ci vs a stroker will normally make the same peak power. The difference is that the stroker will make substantially more torque. This is a good or a bad thing, when it comes to getting traction on the street without a real tire, its a bad thing. No matter what you do, you will want to look into stepping down to a 18" rear wheel with a nice drag radial with some sidewall. 18 will clear the factory brakes and it will allow you a decent tire selection. I get a good chuckle when I see these guys trying to get traction on a 19/20" wheel, its a waste of money.
I had 15,s on the c5 & still would not hook good without paddling the crap out of it off the line. Only able to pull off the line at around 2300 then go into it from that.

Last edited by robert miller; Oct 31, 2015 at 02:40 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by SquatchMachining

The Gen V block has the same issue as the LS block does when it comes to stroker cranks. At the bottom of the stroke the piston skirt actually comes out of the bore and it allows the piston to rock. This causes premature bearing, piston, and cylinder wall wear.
Didn't realize that happened, but makes sense. Makes me feel a little better about not going to a stroker when I had everything apart.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bucknut2006
Didn't realize that happened, but makes sense. Makes me feel a little better about not going to a stroker when I had everything apart.
This is a good video from boutique builder Tom Nelson from Nelson Racing. At 8:40 minutes, he describes mistakes with stroking a stock block in detail. He does not mention LT1 platform and he is talking specifically the LS.

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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SilversledC7
This is a good video from boutique builder Tom Nelson from Nelson Racing. At 8:40 minutes, he describes mistakes with stroking a stock block in detail. He does not mention LT1 platform and he is talking specifically the LS.

Man knows what he is talking about for sure. I would love to have a single turbo set up done by him with a small cam in it.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by SquatchMachining
Stock cubic inch is your best bet. Ive built and owned plenty of "strokers" but the stock CI engines always last longer. Less stroke, better rod/piston geometry, beefier pistons.


The Gen V block has the same issue as the LS block does when it comes to stroker cranks. At the bottom of the stroke the piston skirt actually comes out of the bore and it allows the piston to rock. This causes premature bearing, piston, and cylinder wall wear.


At the end of the day a stock ci vs a stroker will normally make the same peak power. The difference is that the stroker will make substantially more torque.
Squatch, are you referring to street or track cars regarding the premature wear? Or both?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 08:51 PM
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The Wiseco big pin pistons are for stock rods. For some stupid reason the pins are always tight and the rods need honing.
Their pins are .945 and the rod is .944, if I remember correctly.
I sent them a stock rod a few months ago show them. Hopefully they have it straight.
I usually use Wiseco pistons with a set of Molnar Technologies rods. Tom Molnar really knows his stuff.
I keep those pistons on the shelf in case I'm in a hurry.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy@AandASuperchargers
The Wiseco big pin pistons are for stock rods. For some stupid reason the pins are always tight and the rods need honing.
Their pins are .945 and the rod is .944, if I remember correctly.
I sent them a stock rod a few months ago show them. Hopefully they have it straight.
I usually use Wiseco pistons with a set of Molnar Technologies rods. Tom Molnar really knows his stuff.
I keep those pistons on the shelf in case I'm in a hurry.
Andy message me a price on the pstons with +5 thou over & a set of the I beam rods. Plus a black blower set up for the car that will put me around 650 rwhp. I dont want to go crazy are go any deeper with a fuel system r nothing more.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by marcouvo
Squatch, are you referring to street or track cars regarding the premature wear? Or both?
Both.
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