They say the intake is compatible wit the c7 stingray just waitin to see the results

 

Poor marketing on my part, but I did not save any of the video's. They were posted by the customers on here though. If I get time I'll do some searching for them.

I guess they are making some with the std bolt pattern, cool! It's a nice looking intake, although we make as much power as the engine can handle without it just using our base kit so it's more for looks at that point. Plus the aluminum will heat soak more on a street car. I'm not sure I would recommend it unless you were going for an "all out 2200R in our case, or F1x type build in Prochargers. Same goes for any aluminum intake just so that's clear.

 

It wont be out for another 6 - 8 weeks.

I'm going with the LME intake.

 

I've never seen enough gain in these aftermarket intakes to justify the cost. The OEM intakes flow extremely well.

 

I'm z51 as well, lowered all the way on stock bolts and only rub those pieces for the ram air when going up or down elevated areas like my drive way. They do sit very low but I don't mind them hitting pavement since they are rubber.

Doug does the lip that can be welded on top provide similar performance as the lower pieces?

 

It should be a ton better for road racing and high speed driving as it will push air right threw the intercooler, In my own opinion I do not believe the flaps are doing anything for your IATs

 

lots of great info about the SC options, but my question still stands. Id love to hear from people that actually drive their cars hard for prolonged periods of time and track them. I watched Matt Farrah on drive tv test driving a SC c7 (i don't remember the kit), and after 10-15 min of spirited driving through the canyon it started to heat up, so he had to let go. On the autobahn loads are much higher, i frequently drive hard for 30-40 minutes (when i'm driving up towards nurburgring the autobahn is unlimited the whole way there, with lots of elevation changes). So to put on a SC u'd need to upgrade the oil cooler and radiator? Does that eliminate the problem?

The way i perceive it, heat is the enemy and makes the engine go boom.

thanks for the cam advice, but here in germany it is hard to get someone to do that work, and the places that do do it, charge an arm and a leg, so u are back in the SC territory money wise.

Perhaps a better option for me is an oil catch can, basic bolt ons, and oil cooler upgrade...

With all the track experience that GM has, I am surprised that they made their flagship car suffer from heat issues. My c6Z06 never had those.

 

Was your c6Z06 naturally aspirated? That would explain a lot. I've seen the video of the Magnuson c7 you're talking about getting warm. If you're gonna be driving hard for 30 or 45 minutes, you may as well go ahead and upgrade all your cooling. I love boost but I spend my time at the dragstrip . If I were road racing, I would get full exhaust, a moderate drivable cam, and run e85. You'll get lots of horsepower while saving weight and you'll have less heat than boosted applications.

 

U think it will be 600whp on 7lbs

 

I'm looking to go with the 2200SL installing a blower cam in couple months how does it perform vs the normal 1500 kit

 

I'm sure this will go over well...but when I was looking at A&A vs ECS the big thing I noticed was A&A's dyno sheets from other owners seemed very peaky.


Huge jumps in torque and HP over shorter RPM ranges.

 

Here are just a couple suggestions:

1) The best route for you to take if you just want to add a good amount of hp and keep things reliable for road racing, then a mild cam kit (including VVT, springs, retainers, push rods, timing chain, etc), some headers, a CAI, and a tune would be your best bet. Although like you said, this could get very expensive over in your country compared to a SC install. Here, a package like that usually runs about the same as a SC/headers/tune package runs but nets just a tad lower hp.

2) Or go the SC route. I would either recommend ECS (with welded scoop) or the A&A kit. Both will make great reliable power but both will have higher IAT's than a naturally aspirated setup like above. So you may also benefit from a methenol injection system to help keep those IAT's down. I would recommend installing one but keep the tuning conservative so that you aren't leaning on the meth but only using it for safety. Granted, this will just add something else for you to have to monitor and keep on hand to refill when needed. You will burn through quite a bit of meth when on the track. However, if you just tune the car for 93 octane (or 91, whatever you have there) and don't lean on the meth, then it wont really matter too much if you run out as it was only there as an added safety to begin with. Just a thought.

Either route you choose, I would HIGHLY recommend going ahead and upgrading your cooling either way. GM makes a few factory parts now to help with that such as a higher amp radiator fan and a secondary radiator setup (that comes on z06's, which further benefits from a Z06 grill installed). You could also look at after market options here (which is what I'm going to do). LG and DeWitts both make great aftermarket radiators which, from what I've gathered, help to decrease the average engine temps by approximately 25-40 degrees. LG also makes a few other great components to help with cooling like a better transmission cooler and larger transmission pan for a higher capacity of trans fluid. I would also recommend getting some type of catch can with any route you go. If you go forced induction, FPS makes a great application for this.

I personally do not get the chance to road race near as much as you, but I still plan on adding a few of these options just to keep my car safe. I'll most likely go with the ECS kit with welded scoop (I've already removed my lower air dam, for looks purpose only so I'll need the scoop), ARH long tube headers and x-pipe with high flow cats, Vengeance plugs and plug wires, FPS catch can/breather, and a DeWitts or LG radiator with upgraded GM radiator fan. I'm skipping on the meth for now because I don't want to have something else to keep up with.

 

We tested it both ways and Procharger had a nice write up on here doing the same and the results were basically the same. That's why we decided to keep it as we did so none of the airflow to the radiator was impeded. Also for the high speed guys, removing the lower air damn creates lift.


The 2200SL flows in between the 1500 and 2200R, it's a nice blower that will easily produce 900 rwhp.

 

Yes heads and cam will be a good choice but in Germany you will pay a hefty price!! Geiger tuner in Germany is about your only choice when it comes to credibility and reliability. They had the best head cam set up and tune for corvettes when I was stationed their. They have supercharged several corvettes for the autobahn so you should stop by and talk to them.

http://95octane.com/2014/09/22/2015-...e-c7-stingray/

http://en.geigercars.de/corvette.html

 

Doug and Chris @ ECS always support anything they sell or install. Their a very reputable shop.

 

This is yesterdays drive, just as example

 

rough life....I need to move

 

I came from a Supercharged M3 like you to the Corvette. I had a ton of problems with the Supercharged M3 at the track. It had a modified Dinan Kit with w/a intercooler, w/a injection, forged internals etc. The car would break all the time.

When I bought the Corvette I decided to keep in NA, and went the Cam route with headers, upgraded DeWitts radiator, and long tube headers. This car can run with just about anything on the track including previous generation Z06's. A blower was not a consideration for me, you just simply have too much heat being created, on a car that struggles to shed heat as it is.

I have done all of the cooling upgrades I can to mine and it remains reliable, fast and fun. I don't have to worry about watching my temps rise as the session goes on.

I made over 500whp on a Mustang Dyno with just a cam upgrade over headers and intake. It was over 100whp and the car now spins to 7000 rpm, perfect for road racing.

 

I came from an m3, move to a gt500 and now a c7 z51 with the aa supercharger. What can I tell you is the car goes up to 217 degree ECT. But the IAT goes all the way up to 143 degrees. For road racing my car would need methanol injection to control iat.
However, in my opinion the first and second shift gears are to s
hort for the 573 whp the car is producing, thus traction is compromised with the oem tires.. IMO a n/a would be a better option for road racing.

For the autobahn the SC c7 should be great.

 

NA for what the OP is doing for sure. That's the only option really.

SCers are great for getting on it here and there. Just doesn't work for extended durations of heavy throttle usage.