Brake fluid





I would recommend Castrol SRF if you are doing any serious track days, although there are less expensive options.
Besides, according to GM track prep guide: "Brake Fluid(DOT4 Recommended for Track/Competitive Driving. Replace existing brake fluid with a qualified high-performance brake fluid from a sealed container (brake fluid with a dry boiling point >534°F [279°C] is qualified)
Ant
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Not many things more exciting than coming to the end of a straight and discovering you have no brakes.
Granted having a sticky tire like the sport cup 2's puts a lot more pressure on the brakes, but the car can easily run novice track days the from the factory.
DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3 and 4, so if you're going to swap back and forth you need to make sure you thoroughly bleed the brakes at each swap. Not worth it.
There are high temp DOT 3 and 4 compatible fluids that are a better choice for a street car.
DOT 5 is not compatible with DOT 3 and 4, so if you're going to swap back and forth you need to make sure you thoroughly bleed the brakes at each swap. Not worth it.
There are high temp DOT 3 and 4 compatible fluids that are a better choice for a street car.
Silicone-based DOT 5 fluids are obsolete. I do not see or see any need to use them, anymore, since we have 5.1. Maybe someone can tell us why this assumption is not true.
The important parameters in the brake fluid specs are:
1. Wet boiling point. Remember that the fluid is not dry, the moment you open it. Moisture in the air, residual moisture in the brake lines, etc. will immediately contaminate the fluid. It is a (race) car not an operating room.
A little moisture has a great effect....2. Compressibility of the fluid and its ability to absorb air. All (brake) fluids are not perfect, they will compress under pressure, they will compress even more, if they absorb/dissolve air. DOT5 Silicone fluids are especially prone to this. They do not absorb water, but they aerate and absorb air! Brake pedal becomes spongy.
3. Viscosity when (very) cold. SRF feels viscous at -20C. A few brake applications 'warm' it up sufficiently where it work just fine. The racing brake pads (I run on the street), require some warming-up, also i.e. dragginf my foot on the brake for 100 yards.
4. Neutral pH. Acidic or basic fluids will destroy rubber seals found in brake master cylinders and ABS. Fluids will change Ph, as they stay in the brake system and get heated, come in contact with metals, etc.
SRF exceeds all of the above, except for being a little viscous...
Why not use SRF? Because, it is more expensive than a good bottle of wine.
I have boiled brake fluid before. It is not very pleasant. ATE and Motul, nothing worked, till SRF (in that car). SRF never boiled!!! Is $40 price difference a good insurance policy? You should change SRF once a year. Other fluids may require more frequent changes.
Getting fresh cold air to the brakes is the second most important factor to prevent the fluid from boiling and disks from warping.
I see new 5.1 fluids show up, but so far, there is nothing better than SRF.
Anton
Silicone-based DOT 5 fluids are obsolete. I do not see or see any need to use them, anymore, since we have 5.1. Maybe someone can tell us why this assumption is not true.
The important parameters in the brake fluid specs are:
1. Wet boiling point. Remember that the fluid is not dry, the moment you open it. Moisture in the air, residual moisture in the brake lines, etc. will immediately contaminate the fluid. It is a (race) car not an operating room.
A little moisture has a great effect....2. Compressibility of the fluid and its ability to absorb air. All (brake) fluids are not perfect, they will compress under pressure, they will compress even more, if they absorb/dissolve air. DOT5 Silicone fluids are especially prone to this. They do not absorb water, but they aerate and absorb air! Brake pedal becomes spongy.
3. Viscosity when (very) cold. SRF feels viscous at -20C. A few brake applications 'warm' it up sufficiently where it work just fine. The racing brake pads (I run on the street), require some warming-up, also i.e. dragginf my foot on the brake for 100 yards.
4. Neutral pH. Acidic or basic fluids will destroy rubber seals found in brake master cylinders and ABS. Fluids will change Ph, as they stay in the brake system and get heated, come in contact with metals, etc.
SRF exceeds all of the above, except for being a little viscous...
Why not use SRF? Because, it is more expensive than a good bottle of wine.
I have boiled brake fluid before. It is not very pleasant. ATE and Motul, nothing worked, till SRF (in that car). SRF never boiled!!! Is $40 price difference a good insurance policy? You should change SRF once a year. Other fluids may require more frequent changes.
Getting fresh cold air to the brakes is the second most important factor to prevent the fluid from boiling and disks from warping.
I see new 5.1 fluids show up, but so far, there is nothing better than SRF.
Anton

Ant
Last edited by FYREANT; Feb 15, 2016 at 08:26 AM.

Ant
Going to do a full brake fluid flush in preparing for my trip and I'm trying to figure out which brake fluid would be best for my use.









