Trunk 350amp fuse dead...
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Ok, on that one, you'll set the dial to the symbol that's between the 200 and the 'OUT' (the one that looks like a weird wifi signal). That's the continuity setting, it'll beep if there is low resistance (and if the fuse is not blown). Again, touch the leads together to make sure you get a beep before testing the fuse.
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THe weird wifi signal is "sound". It'll beep a tone if there is continuity, silence if the fuse or circuit is blown or open.
Elmer
Elmer
Burning Brakes
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From: Az
Ok, on that one, you'll set the dial to the symbol that's between the 200 and the 'OUT' (the one that looks like a weird wifi signal). That's the continuity setting, it'll beep if there is low resistance (and if the fuse is not blown). Again, touch the leads together to make sure you get a beep before testing the fuse.
I installed battery last night. Tested battery first it was good. Installed it. Let it do it thing w cars computers and started car up fine. After letting it idle for a while. Turned it off. Let all the computers shut off. Then tested battery again 12.4. All good
this Am , 12 hrs later I tested car battery was 12.4.
I did try and test those 100amp fuses and 60 amp on battery fuse box. Tried without battery connected. Got nothing on all amps. Even the 350amp. I even tested those when the battery was hooked up. Still read 0. I don’t think those fuses can be tested 🤷♂️. Seeing even the 350amp read 0. And car started perfectly. Tells me u can’t check those w meter. I tried ohms and Amps.
I’m going to check the battery again tonight when I get home and that will be 24hrs in car. I’m also going to pull negative cable on battery and see if there is any draw.
I’m praying I got a bad battery before 🤷♂️
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When you test the fuse. You put your leads on each end of the fuse. If you used the dial settings we discussed, the meter will sound a tone if the fuse is good. If no tone, it means the fuse is blown. You're not looking for amperage or voltage. You're looking for continuity. If the fuse is good the tone sounds, if no tone, the fuse is burned and it has no path through the fuse for the amps to pass. TO check the way you set up the meter, just touch the two probe ends together and you should hear a tone because you have a path between the touching probe ends.
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Az
When you test the fuse. You put your leads on each end of the fuse. If you used the dial settings we discussed, the meter will sound a tone if the fuse is good. If no tone, it means the fuse is blown. You're not looking for amperage or voltage. You're looking for continuity. If the fuse is good the tone sounds, if no tone, the fuse is burned and it has no path through the fuse for the amps to pass. TO check the way you set up the meter, just touch the two probe ends together and you should hear a tone because you have a path between the touching probe ends.
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
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It shouldn't matter but if you touch the wrong stuff you could zap your meter. I'd remove the negative lead on the battery to make sure you don't clutz up your meter.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Az
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 82
From: Az
When you test the fuse. You put your leads on each end of the fuse. If you used the dial settings we discussed, the meter will sound a tone if the fuse is good. If no tone, it means the fuse is blown. You're not looking for amperage or voltage. You're looking for continuity. If the fuse is good the tone sounds, if no tone, the fuse is burned and it has no path through the fuse for the amps to pass. TO check the way you set up the meter, just touch the two probe ends together and you should hear a tone because you have a path between the touching probe ends.
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
Did you do that when you tested the fuses?
Elmer
so when I installed battery Thursday ,volts were 12.4, I tested the battery again fri mourning volts were 12.4 no drain over about 12 hrs. Came home Friday night tested it again, volts 12.4. Today, Sat. Tested it again 12.4.
I would think it would drain some
if it was pulling amps over 2 half days 🤷♂️
im going to pull negative terminal and check some fuses w meter now.
im hoping I just got a bad battery before 🙏🏻
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Az
Update.
Just pulled negative cable off battery, tested for parasitic draw. Looks like I have a big draw from somewhere. It’s jumping around from 3.39-7.43. It’ll go down too .79 then jump back to 6.39 and keep fluctuating from 3-7.33
Just pulled negative cable off battery, tested for parasitic draw. Looks like I have a big draw from somewhere. It’s jumping around from 3.39-7.43. It’ll go down too .79 then jump back to 6.39 and keep fluctuating from 3-7.33
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Az
Is that acceptable draw. Considering all computer stuff is always ruining when car is shut down?
I noticed the spike at 3-7.39. Was when stuff in cars computer would kick on. Like the middle dash would come on then shut off and meter would spike to 7.39 and fluctuate. Till it completely shut off. I opened car door. And sure enough spike up to 7.xx. Then drops down
I noticed the spike at 3-7.39. Was when stuff in cars computer would kick on. Like the middle dash would come on then shut off and meter would spike to 7.39 and fluctuate. Till it completely shut off. I opened car door. And sure enough spike up to 7.xx. Then drops down
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Az
Another update.
soo, seems like it just took over 10 min for all the cars computer stuff to turn off. I’m now getting good readings at 0.12- 0.15
had to have gotten a bad battery before.
to be even safer I’m going to goto autozone. Have them do a load test for amps on battery. Just to confirm. That has not depleted
soo, seems like it just took over 10 min for all the cars computer stuff to turn off. I’m now getting good readings at 0.12- 0.15
had to have gotten a bad battery before.
to be even safer I’m going to goto autozone. Have them do a load test for amps on battery. Just to confirm. That has not depleted
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From: Canton GA
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That jumping current reading could have been your keyless entry trying to chat with your fob and unlock the doors. Make sure your key is away from the car before testing.
It's quite possible you had a bad battery from the store, it happens. But, the next test would be with the battery tender. It might have gone bad and is actually draining the battery instead of charging it. I've seen weirder things.
It's quite possible you had a bad battery from the store, it happens. But, the next test would be with the battery tender. It might have gone bad and is actually draining the battery instead of charging it. I've seen weirder things.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2019
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From: Colo Spgs, CO
This fuse was dead when I attempted to "wake" my '19 Z06 from hibernation last week. Symptoms presented more like a dead battery, despite having had the car on a smartcharger all winter. After replacing the battery failed to solve the problem, I traced it to this fuse. The best price I found for a replacement block was $74 (plus tax) shipped, from Autonation in Chandler, AZ.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Chandler AZ
Since it happened to me, I have been following as many posts as I could find about the 350A fuse blowing. That fuse provides power to the fuse box in the engine compartment, and to the starter. I don't have a service manual wiring diagram, so I don't know if it provides power to any other circuits.
You're right, there aren't many reported cases of this fuse blowing.
I do know that hooking up a charger wrong, or one of those portable jump starters wrong, will cause it to blow.
Other trends I noticed - people who install headers have not properly shielded the wire to the starter from the heat thrown off by the headers, and that has caused a few of the reported issues.
I have seen at least two cases reported where people installing pulleys for a certain brand of superchargers tightened them down to a point where some screw interfered with the rotation and basically locked up the engine. When they went to start it the starter motor of course couldn't turn, began overheating, and the fuse blew.
Then there is the case in this thread, similar to one or two others I ran across. Anything that causes the starter not to be able to crank the engine will blow that fuse.
None of this explains my case and a couple others I ran across. In my case I picked up my car that morning brand new, and drove about 200 miles to my sister's house. Right after I left the dealer lot, the service rear axle message came on in the DIC. I figured brand new car, WTF, hit OK and the message went away and I've never seen it since. All was great until the last 2 miles. I stopped at a traffic light. When the light turned green, I could not get it to go into any gear (manual 7 speed trans). I shut it off and on about 3 or 4 times and it finally went into gear. Then I noticed the clutch pedal was sticking about halfway, and to get it all the way up I had to hook my left foot behind it and pull. The car started running really rough and shaking but I managed to get it to my sisters driveway and pulled in. I put it in neutral and the engine was still running. I decided to pull up a tad, and put the clutch pedal down, put it in 1st, started to let off the clutch, which was still sticking, and the engine just died and I had to use the emergency door releases to get out. The clutch pedal was again stuck half way up. I tried to restart, nothing, no dash lights, no starter clicks, no nothing. DOA. In retrospect, I wonder if pressing and holding the starter with my foot off the clutch and brake would have brought me into maintenance mode but I didn't think of it at the time. I have the AAA super duper Platinum plan which gives you one free tow up to 200 miles, so I had it flatbedded back to the dealer who diagnosed that the fuse was blown, but could not figure out what made it blow. They pulled the fuse block off another car on the lot and put it into my Z06 and all has been fine since, 2600 miles and 9 months.
So maybe hitting the starter 3 or 4 times with pausing in between to try to wrestle the car into gear may have overheated the starter, but the car still ran, got me about 2 miles to my sisters house, and I had dash lights so the fuse wasn't blown, just a mushy clutch pedal and the engine running really rough like it was misfiring on one or two cylinders (never verified by stored codes). The 350A fuse didn't actually blow until I put it in gear and tried to move forward in my sister's driveway.
I suspect either a defective fuse, or the fuse block wasn't tightened down properly at the factory and during my drive it loosened up. I don't know what else to chalk it up to. I have a lift at home and looking at everything underneath the car, there is no sign anywhere of sparking and arcing/burn marks that you might expect from blowing a 350A fuse.
All I know is that I now have a spare fuse block on hand, and several of those Del City 350A Mega fuses in case the problem ever rears its ugly head again. Bizarre. Not a common issue, but has happened to several people for no apparent reason.
If this happens to you, please post your story about it, and any causes or solutions. Thanks and sorry for the long read. Hope this helps someone in the future.
You're right, there aren't many reported cases of this fuse blowing.
I do know that hooking up a charger wrong, or one of those portable jump starters wrong, will cause it to blow.
Other trends I noticed - people who install headers have not properly shielded the wire to the starter from the heat thrown off by the headers, and that has caused a few of the reported issues.
I have seen at least two cases reported where people installing pulleys for a certain brand of superchargers tightened them down to a point where some screw interfered with the rotation and basically locked up the engine. When they went to start it the starter motor of course couldn't turn, began overheating, and the fuse blew.
Then there is the case in this thread, similar to one or two others I ran across. Anything that causes the starter not to be able to crank the engine will blow that fuse.
None of this explains my case and a couple others I ran across. In my case I picked up my car that morning brand new, and drove about 200 miles to my sister's house. Right after I left the dealer lot, the service rear axle message came on in the DIC. I figured brand new car, WTF, hit OK and the message went away and I've never seen it since. All was great until the last 2 miles. I stopped at a traffic light. When the light turned green, I could not get it to go into any gear (manual 7 speed trans). I shut it off and on about 3 or 4 times and it finally went into gear. Then I noticed the clutch pedal was sticking about halfway, and to get it all the way up I had to hook my left foot behind it and pull. The car started running really rough and shaking but I managed to get it to my sisters driveway and pulled in. I put it in neutral and the engine was still running. I decided to pull up a tad, and put the clutch pedal down, put it in 1st, started to let off the clutch, which was still sticking, and the engine just died and I had to use the emergency door releases to get out. The clutch pedal was again stuck half way up. I tried to restart, nothing, no dash lights, no starter clicks, no nothing. DOA. In retrospect, I wonder if pressing and holding the starter with my foot off the clutch and brake would have brought me into maintenance mode but I didn't think of it at the time. I have the AAA super duper Platinum plan which gives you one free tow up to 200 miles, so I had it flatbedded back to the dealer who diagnosed that the fuse was blown, but could not figure out what made it blow. They pulled the fuse block off another car on the lot and put it into my Z06 and all has been fine since, 2600 miles and 9 months.
So maybe hitting the starter 3 or 4 times with pausing in between to try to wrestle the car into gear may have overheated the starter, but the car still ran, got me about 2 miles to my sisters house, and I had dash lights so the fuse wasn't blown, just a mushy clutch pedal and the engine running really rough like it was misfiring on one or two cylinders (never verified by stored codes). The 350A fuse didn't actually blow until I put it in gear and tried to move forward in my sister's driveway.
I suspect either a defective fuse, or the fuse block wasn't tightened down properly at the factory and during my drive it loosened up. I don't know what else to chalk it up to. I have a lift at home and looking at everything underneath the car, there is no sign anywhere of sparking and arcing/burn marks that you might expect from blowing a 350A fuse.
All I know is that I now have a spare fuse block on hand, and several of those Del City 350A Mega fuses in case the problem ever rears its ugly head again. Bizarre. Not a common issue, but has happened to several people for no apparent reason.
If this happens to you, please post your story about it, and any causes or solutions. Thanks and sorry for the long read. Hope this helps someone in the future.
I know low voltage will cause all of the car systems to freak out so I figured a new battery would solve the problem (hoping at least). The car still had the original battery which was 7 years old - pretty robust for Arizona heat. I dropped the new battery in, power came on to the vehicle so I hopped in. Dash lights were on as if everything was normal, hit the start button and everything went dark as if there was a hard short to ground. Now I'm fearing that the engine is locked up. The car is original, no mods.
I checked the 350A fuse and it is blown. I bypassed it to see if I could at least get the engine to turn over - same result, dash goes dark. I ordered a few replacement 350A fuses but I'm not very confident that will solve my problem.
I'm going to lift the car and look for any tell tale signs of a major power to ground short, but I don't have high hopes.
I'll do some other electrical tests and also see if I can get the engine to turn over manually.
Did my car really go into self-destruct mode?? It has ~38,000 miles. I'm starting to think I should have kept my C5... really disappointed.
If anybody has any suggestions, please post them.
Thanks in advance!
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OMG - I had a very similar incident happen to me last weekend. I was on a nice relaxing drive heading to a morning tee time, cruising about 65 mph. All of a sudden my 2016 Z06 (7 spd) starts firing off error codes, primarily "Service Rear Axle". My car started riding really rough, went in to low power mode and started shutting down systems (active handling, ABS, I'm not sure what else - it all happened so quickly). Not long after that the car died and I drifted off to the side of the road. When I hit the button to try to restart it everything went blank, no display nothing. I had to have it towed back home.
I know low voltage will cause all of the car systems to freak out so I figured a new battery would solve the problem (hoping at least). The car still had the original battery which was 7 years old - pretty robust for Arizona heat. I dropped the new battery in, power came on to the vehicle so I hopped in. Dash lights were on as if everything was normal, hit the start button and everything went dark as if there was a hard short to ground. Now I'm fearing that the engine is locked up. The car is original, no mods.
I checked the 350A fuse and it is blown. I bypassed it to see if I could at least get the engine to turn over - same result, dash goes dark. I ordered a few replacement 350A fuses but I'm not very confident that will solve my problem.
I'm going to lift the car and look for any tell tale signs of a major power to ground short, but I don't have high hopes.
I'll do some other electrical tests and also see if I can get the engine to turn over manually.
Did my car really go into self-destruct mode?? It has ~38,000 miles. I'm starting to think I should have kept my C5... really disappointed.
If anybody has any suggestions, please post them.
Thanks in advance!
I know low voltage will cause all of the car systems to freak out so I figured a new battery would solve the problem (hoping at least). The car still had the original battery which was 7 years old - pretty robust for Arizona heat. I dropped the new battery in, power came on to the vehicle so I hopped in. Dash lights were on as if everything was normal, hit the start button and everything went dark as if there was a hard short to ground. Now I'm fearing that the engine is locked up. The car is original, no mods.
I checked the 350A fuse and it is blown. I bypassed it to see if I could at least get the engine to turn over - same result, dash goes dark. I ordered a few replacement 350A fuses but I'm not very confident that will solve my problem.
I'm going to lift the car and look for any tell tale signs of a major power to ground short, but I don't have high hopes.
I'll do some other electrical tests and also see if I can get the engine to turn over manually.
Did my car really go into self-destruct mode?? It has ~38,000 miles. I'm starting to think I should have kept my C5... really disappointed.
If anybody has any suggestions, please post them.
Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you have a wiring issue that was caused by the battery change. Nothing changed on the car. Starter shorted? Wire to starter? Wire to Alternator. The fuse zapped AFTER you changed the battery. Self inflicted wounds or something like that.
The car is innocent.Elmer
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21
Likes: 2
From: Chandler AZ
I changed the battery AFTER the car self-destructed, in hopes that it would resolve the issue. No dice. Same behavior with the new battery. Then I checked the 350A fuse which is blown. I can't say for sure when it blew. I'm guessing when I was cruising down the highway right before all of the warnings started flashing across the DIC. After it died and I was sitting on the side of the road I tried to restart the car and everything went dark. Same behavior with the new battery.
The underbody of the car is pristine. No signs of any short. Connection to the starter is good. I even pulled the starter and tested it. It works fine. Connections to the under hood fuse box are good as well.
The underbody of the car is pristine. No signs of any short. Connection to the starter is good. I even pulled the starter and tested it. It works fine. Connections to the under hood fuse box are good as well.
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I changed the battery AFTER the car self-destructed, in hopes that it would resolve the issue. No dice. Same behavior with the new battery. Then I checked the 350A fuse which is blown. I can't say for sure when it blew. I'm guessing when I was cruising down the highway right before all of the warnings started flashing across the DIC. After it died and I was sitting on the side of the road I tried to restart the car and everything went dark. Same behavior with the new battery.
The underbody of the car is pristine. No signs of any short. Connection to the starter is good. I even pulled the starter and tested it. It works fine. Connections to the under hood fuse box are good as well.
The underbody of the car is pristine. No signs of any short. Connection to the starter is good. I even pulled the starter and tested it. It works fine. Connections to the under hood fuse box are good as well.
Well, fudge. Starting to sound like a tow truck to the dealer.
Elmer
1st Gear
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From: Mesa AZ
Melting Slicks
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From: North Texas
NEVER jumper a fuse.
Your just asking for major trouble, ie: burnt up wiring, car fire etc.
Correct way to test these fuses on the battery:
Voltage Test:
Meter set to voltage, scale > than 20 volts.
With the battery connected, neg probe on gnd, pos probe first on the input side of fuse, you should read battery voltage. Then move the pos probe to the output side of the fuse, you should still read battery voltage if the fuse is good. No voltage on the output side of the fuse indicates that the fuse is open or bad.
Continuity Test:
Meter set to resistance or ohms scale. ( low scale ).
Disconnect the neg battery cable. With the meter set to Ohms, one probe on input side of the fuse the other probe on the output side of the fuse. ( polarity does not matter ). You should read ~ 0 ohms ( not counting the resistance of the meter leads). If 0 ohms is indicated the fuse is good. If infinite or high resistance is indicated the fuse is bad.
You could also use a good Power Probe but different probes operate differently. Your going to have to read up on the probe your using to determine its capability.
Practically speaking all DVMs work the same but not all probes do.
Your just asking for major trouble, ie: burnt up wiring, car fire etc.
Correct way to test these fuses on the battery:
Voltage Test:
Meter set to voltage, scale > than 20 volts.
With the battery connected, neg probe on gnd, pos probe first on the input side of fuse, you should read battery voltage. Then move the pos probe to the output side of the fuse, you should still read battery voltage if the fuse is good. No voltage on the output side of the fuse indicates that the fuse is open or bad.
Continuity Test:
Meter set to resistance or ohms scale. ( low scale ).
Disconnect the neg battery cable. With the meter set to Ohms, one probe on input side of the fuse the other probe on the output side of the fuse. ( polarity does not matter ). You should read ~ 0 ohms ( not counting the resistance of the meter leads). If 0 ohms is indicated the fuse is good. If infinite or high resistance is indicated the fuse is bad.
You could also use a good Power Probe but different probes operate differently. Your going to have to read up on the probe your using to determine its capability.
Practically speaking all DVMs work the same but not all probes do.
