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Not to open the whole discussion about if one is needed or not.... But how much trouble is it to check/empty one of these? I've not seen one IRL yet so don't know what is involved.
i have one from Apex Motorsports - when they had/made their own and didn't just sell the RX one - and it's easy, you just unscrew the bottom, dump it out, and screw it back on..
Not to open the whole discussion about if one is needed or not.... But how much trouble is it to check/empty one of these? I've not seen one IRL yet so don't know what is involved.
I have the same one as you do just unscrew it and empty & screw it back on.
My Elite Gen 2 catch can takes less than 5 minutes.
Open hood
Remove mount bolt
Unscrew can and empty oil - it is usually at least 1/2 full @1000 miles
Screw can back together
Remount with bolt
Close hood
My Elite Gen 2 catch can takes less than 5 minutes.
Open hood
Remove mount bolt
Unscrew can and empty oil - it is usually at least 1/2 full @1000 miles
Screw can back together
Remount with bolt
Close hood
Do you WOT are run your car pretty good in these 1,k miles trips. I per say have much of nothing in mine can.
Which Elite can do you have? That's one I am considering. I was wondering about being able to access the can without unmounting the thing. That is just enough of a PITA to discourage casual frequent checking. Thanks for the info.
Originally Posted by TennisFreak
My Elite Gen 2 catch can takes less than 5 minutes.
Open hood
Remove mount bolt
Unscrew can and empty oil - it is usually at least 1/2 full @1000 miles
Screw can back together
Remount with bolt
Close hood
I have the RX dual valve catch can...takes all of 30 seconds...pop the hood, put some kind of container below the catch can, turn valve to empty....wait...then close the valve! they make a hose to put into the bottom of the catch can for emptying before you turn the valve...but I don't use it. I usually just use an empty water bottle to catch the fluid. I rarely have more than an oz or so.
Last edited by StingerBG; Feb 18, 2016 at 01:17 PM.
Do you WOT are run your car pretty good in these 1,k miles trips. I per say have much of nothing in mine can.
I put my foot in it more than I should I guess.
Probably from overfill at the dealership, I dunno but it does make me uncomfortable seeing that oil in there.
I really dont like this DI and dry sump system they are using on the LT1.
I almost wish I had done more research and found more out about this before I bought because I probably would have not gotten the Vette.
As it stands now I will just drive the car, empty the can, and probably take it in for a valve cleaning at 20k miles. I am sitting at 11k miles right now.
I have the RX can installed and bought it for this very reason - it has a valve on the bottom and I attached a short length of hose that goes to under the engine cradle. I just stick a pan under the car and open the valve and it dumps out with no mess, not a drop spilled.
Last edited by Flame Red; Feb 19, 2016 at 03:19 AM.
I have the RX can installed and bought it for this very reason - it has a valve on the bottom and I attached a short length of hose that goes to under the engine cradle. I just stick a pan under the car and open the valve and it dumps out with no mess, not a drop spilled.
I have the RX catch can. I cut a small water bottle about 1.5 inches from the bottom, slide it under the valve and open it. Takes all of 10 seconds to empty it. Last time, only a tea spoon of oil came out.
Thanks guys. Even though the other brands don't seem to be too hard to drain I am liking the Rx with the valve. If I get one I will probably do as Stinger and Russ and drain into some sort of small container. I am assuming that the outlet is reachable with the can mounted as per the instructions.
Originally Posted by RussM05
I have the RX catch can. I cut a small water bottle about 1.5 inches from the bottom, slide it under the valve and open it. Takes all of 10 seconds to empty it. Last time, only a tea spoon of oil came out.
Thanks guys. Even though the other brands don't seem to be too hard to drain I am liking the Rx with the valve. If I get one I will probably do as Stinger and Russ and drain into some sort of small container. I am assuming that the outlet is reachable with the can mounted as per the instructions.
Yup...Very easy indeed! Mine didn't mount exactly as the instructions and video stated. I had to use a different threaded hole on the block than the one stated in the instructions. And as Flame stated... make sure you have the check valve going to the air duct oriented correctly and test fit the hose before installing the bung into the intake duct! I did not do this, I just drilled the hole in the intake where they show in the video. But since I had to mount my catch can bracket to a different threaded hole and the can was in a slightly different location, when I went to put the hose on, it was in such a bind that it was kinking. I actually had to use the spare bung that Flame said he had left over and drill another hole in my intake, then capped off the first bung with one of the spare rubber caps I had in my kit!
Probably from overfill at the dealership, I dunno but it does make me uncomfortable seeing that oil in there.
I really dont like this DI and dry sump system they are using on the LT1.
I almost wish I had done more research and found more out about this before I bought because I probably would have not gotten the Vette.
As it stands now I will just drive the car, empty the can, and probably take it in for a valve cleaning at 20k miles. I am sitting at 11k miles right now.
i knew going into buying a DI engine that people had problems. but never really looked into how bad it CAN be.
problem is that just about every car is DI or going DI. DI doesn't cause carbon build up, its the PCV system and other stuff that causes it. OEM just needs a better fix.
I do get frustrated when i see ford and dodge still using port fuel injection in the V8 engines.
i knew going into buying a DI engine that people had problems. but never really looked into how bad it CAN be.
problem is that just about every car is DI or going DI. DI doesn't cause carbon build up, its the PCV system and other stuff that causes it. OEM just needs a better fix.
I do get frustrated when i see ford and dodge still using port fuel injection in the V8 engines.
I think what really rubs me the wrong way is/was how Chevy said its not a problem and is nothing more than cosmetic.
The Elite E2-X, the true RX (not the cheap china knock-offs), and the ColoradoSpeed premium all have the high quality chromed brass 1/4 turn drain valve. All come with nice AN fittings, billet checkvalves, etc. Could not be easier.
And these each meet emissions requirements and are street legal. Each enhances the function of the PCV system instead of deleting/defeating part or all of the functions.