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2016 mag-ride z51, took all from front and half from rear, going with less neg camber this year in
rear looking for better launch, and much lees toe in out back because I think when I went crazy with it I lost oversteer but found a push(understeer)
Yup.
I removed all my washers on Z51 Mag ride.
-2.5 front, -2.0 rear
With my wide tires (295 front, 315 rear), I need all that
just to make all the tire tread/surface touch the ground.
My speed shop took out all the washers (16) from the rear UCA to get -1.7 camber, but oddly enough did not have to take any from the front to get -2.0.
Any concerns with removing all the washers from the rear UCA's, despite GM only saying to remove one from each mounting point? (8 washers total)
Any concerns with removing all the washers from the rear UCA's, despite GM only saying to remove one from each mounting point? (8 washers total)
The only thing I can see is they be concerned about wear on the frame at the points the dog bones touch the frame. If those dog bones move just a little they could cause wear on the frame over time. With the shims in place the dog bones are isolated from the aluminum frame and may help reduce wear.
The only thing I can see is they be concerned about wear on the frame at the points the dog bones touch the frame. If those dog bones move just a little they could cause wear on the frame over time. With the shims in place the dog bones are isolated from the aluminum frame and may help reduce wear.
Bill
hello bill, thanks for all your input in all threads you post in . I found out something yesterday I'm sure you already knew- my base14, z51 non mag 15 and my mag- ride z51 2016 all had two washers behind every A-arm bolt front and rear but yesterday when Removing all the shims from my new ( leftover) 2016 z06 their was only one washer per bolt in the rear ??i did not know that ! Anyway I just hit 500 miles on car and I need a auto cross alignment for next weekend so I started with the shims !!
As an update, I went back to my track alignment shop to re-insert 1 washer behind the rear upper control arm mounts to see what the max camber they could get. Ended up as basically -1.1 deg camber. The lead tech / owner said anything more wasn't possible and meet the GM toe specifications, due to the limitations of the OEM toe links. He thought that fully adjustable toe links would make it possible to reach -2 camber in the rear with 1 washer, or perhaps if the car was lowered (which I do not want to do).
Not sure how GM expects you to get -2 camber with one washer still inserted and meet the other track alignment specs...??
So its some aftermarket toe links on the shopping list for me before my next alignment.
Yep - you need the Granatelli adjustable rear toe-links:
Here's a thread where forum vendor AMT Motorsport has them available with their proprietary toe link plate that replaces the OE eccentric when you install the Granatelli tie-rod type links:
As an update, I went back to my track alignment shop to re-insert 1 washer behind the rear upper control arm mounts to see what the max camber they could get. Ended up as basically -1.1 deg camber. The lead tech / owner said anything more wasn't possible and meet the GM toe specifications, due to the limitations of the OEM toe links. He thought that fully adjustable toe links would make it possible to reach -2 camber in the rear with 1 washer, or perhaps if the car was lowered (which I do not want to do).
Not sure how GM expects you to get -2 camber with one washer still inserted and meet the other track alignment specs...??
So its some aftermarket toe links on the shopping list for me before my next alignment.
Hope this helps someone out there.
It's just so much easier and free to just remove the washers( shims) in the rear . I'm not even at the limit neg camber and tons of toe in but stopped right there when I got 1.2 positive caster in the rear - no oversteer for me now !!
Removed washers alignment went right in!
