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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Default Alignment numbers?

2014 aligned and I need to know the exact numbers so whenever they printed out after they've done the job I can make sure that it is totally and completely aligned. I only say this because the dealer screwed up and didn't really know what they were doing. Now I'm talking about the service manager so this has me worried. Because I've already ruined two front tires because I didn't realize the alignment was off from the start and now the rear tires have worn on the inside and this is after I replace the front new ones and had it aligned, so I want to be one hundred and 10% sure that this alignment will be completely accurate. And since I am no mechanic I was wondering if you guys knew of how and exactly what numbers I'm looking for
Thx John
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Prodago
2014 aligned and I need to know the exact numbers so whenever they printed out after they've done the job I can make sure that it is totally and completely aligned. I only say this because the dealer screwed up and didn't really know what they were doing. Now I'm talking about the service manager so this has me worried. Because I've already ruined two front tires because I didn't realize the alignment was off from the start and now the rear tires have worn on the inside and this is after I replace the front new ones and had it aligned, so I want to be one hundred and 10% sure that this alignment will be completely accurate. And since I am no mechanic I was wondering if you guys knew of how and exactly what numbers I'm looking for
Thx John
Because most of the places I've called that do alignments will not touch the stingray
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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2nd diagram in post #1 shows spec limits and you should get a report like this from dealer after your alignment.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ent-specs.html
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Prodago
2014 aligned and I need to know the exact numbers so whenever they printed out after they've done the job I can make sure that it is totally and completely aligned. I only say this because the dealer screwed up and didn't really know what they were doing. Now I'm talking about the service manager so this has me worried. Because I've already ruined two front tires because I didn't realize the alignment was off from the start and now the rear tires have worn on the inside and this is after I replace the front new ones and had it aligned, so I want to be one hundred and 10% sure that this alignment will be completely accurate. And since I am no mechanic I was wondering if you guys knew of how and exactly what numbers I'm looking for
Thx John
You'll need to tell them what you want. Not all dealers will do this. The OEM specs are pretty open. Depends on your usage.
I'm running .1 negative camber, 7.2 deg caster, and 0 toe on the front. -.4 camber and .02 toe in on the rear.
These settings work well for me, but here in Florida roads are flat and straight. I don't corner really aggressively, either.
These settings worked well on my C-6, also.
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jim2092
2nd diagram in post #1 shows spec limits and you should get a report like this from dealer after your alignment.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ent-specs.html
forgive my ignorance, but I'm not following when you say "2nd diagram in post #1". Is photo in the link you included what I need for my alignment. Like I said, I do not race, but do like to accelerate for short bursts, sometimes like to take a cloverleaf onramp pretty quick. also, my car will pull to right after I count one missi...it's halfway in the other lane. I know it's supposed to veer a little bit for safety reasons. I am about to buy tires and jonesing pretty hard not being able to drive, so all your info helps.
thanks
John
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Prodago
forgive my ignorance, but I'm not following when you say "2nd diagram in post #1". Is photo in the link you included what I need for my alignment. Like I said, I do not race, but do like to accelerate for short bursts, sometimes like to take a cloverleaf onramp pretty quick. also, my car will pull to right after I count one missi...it's halfway in the other lane. I know it's supposed to veer a little bit for safety reasons. I am about to buy tires and jonesing pretty hard not being able to drive, so all your info helps.
thanks
John
Yes, the second picture is a copy of alignment results that a dealer produces that show what the spec limits are for a particular vehicle and what they actually were when checked. This report would be given to the customer and finally would show which specs were out of the recommended limits (in red). The dealer would be expected to adjust them into the limits shown.
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 01:22 PM
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I just had an alignment done on my car last week to reduce front tire wear. The shop did not provide a before/after sheet so i have no idea what it is set at currently but it is now following every groove on the road and the rear gets really loose when i get on it. I am taking it back to the shop next week and providing them with DSC street specs. I don't think they are going to charge me to realign since they have no idea what they have it set at currently.

Any thoughts on the old vs new DSC specs? Looks like the rear toe increased from .5mm to 1.7mm.

Also side question, is there a difference in these toe specs being in millimeters versus a degree of angle? The toe seems to be spec'd in a degree of angle in the handbook specs







.

Last edited by 555ctsv; Oct 18, 2019 at 01:25 PM.
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 555ctsv
I just had an alignment done on my car last week to reduce from tire wear. The shop did not provide a before/after sheet so i have no idea what it is set at currently but it is now following every groove on the road and the rear gets really loose when i get on it. I am taking it back to the shop next week and providing them with DSC street specs. I don't think they are going to charge me to realign since they have no idea what they have it set at currently.

Any thoughts on the old vs new DSC specs? Looks like the rear toe increased from .5mm to 1.7mm.

Also side question, is there a difference in these toe specs being in millimeters versus a degree of angle?







.
First, you need to change the units used to describe the amount of toe. The alignment machines used by most shops are going to show degrees. I know that machines used in BMW shops show mm but most of the ones I have seen show degrees which is a standardized way to measure toe as the angle doesn't change with the diameter of the wheel lie inch/mm measurements do. I once asked Mike L what his machine used for wheel diameter and he said 20 inches. So the mm measurement is based on the difference of the measurements taken at the front and rear of a 20 inch wheel in reference to the center line of the vehicle.

Second, you need to make sure the person doing the alignment understands that toe in on this chart is shown as a positive number. There is no standard when it comes to the sign used for toe in and toe out. Some machines and some mechanics use negative to represent toe in. On the DSC sheet and in GM OEM table positive means toe in and negative means toe out. The best way to convey what you want is to include the sign but specifically use the term Toe In or Toe Out after the numbers.

A lot of negative camber will cause wander, I am not sure what near 0 or positive camber will cause as I don't run it. However, toe out in either front or rear will definitely cause wander on road irregularities especially with run flat tires.

I do have some questions about the latest graph from the DSC web site since they still do mention people using after market toe links set their toe to +1.5 mm Vs the -0.5 mm they used to recommend for track settings. Maybe there are some errors in the latest chart due to late night updating.

Factory GM toe recommendations are included in this chart from the service manual:

For best tire wear I would suggest the factory camber recommendations without any tolerances. I would use the factory caster recommendations as well. The factory recommends 0.3 degrees more of negative camber on the right. I suspect that is to offset the tendency of a car to pull to the right when riding on the right side of a crowned road. With the camber differential the car will pull slightly toward the side with the most positive camber which should counteract the crown of the road when on the right side of the crown. When on the left side of the crown the car will pull to the left.

Notice the Total Toe column. The base measurement recommends 0.1 degrees of front toe in and 0.0 degrees of rear toe on both the narrow and wide body cars. However, there is a 0.2 degree tolerance permitted which can establish a range of toe for the front of +0.3 degrees to -0.1 degrees and in the rear the range would be +0.2 to -0.2 degrees. I would recommend achieving a +0.1 to +0.2 in the front with 0.0 to +0.1 in the rear.

Bill
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 02:40 PM
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I really appreciate the reply Bill. I may just take it to my local dealer since they'll have the caster tool and ask them to put it back to the stock settings with the tighter toe tolerances you mention above. I really wish DSC would list angles versus mm

**Edit: Looks like this has been asked before DSC Toe Setting in Degrees

Based on the calculator in the toe setting thread linked above using the 20" wheel diameter Mike L said in the past, the latest DSC specs translate to .056* toe IN front and .192* toe IN rear


Last edited by 555ctsv; Oct 18, 2019 at 04:19 PM.
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