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School me on camming

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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 03:17 PM
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 03:24 PM
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You'll get many varying opinions on this one especially in terms of preferred brands and tuning.

Originally Posted by McCarthy
I bought my 2016 Z51 A8 earlier this year, 5000 miles so far without any issue. I love the handling but I’d also love some additional 150 horses without having to deal with forced injection. I won't be tracking it but drive pretty hard when nobody is around.


1.) Can I do the camming (and headers) in my garage? Without a lift, only tall jacks?
You could, but it would be a bitch.

2.) Would it be easier to pull the engine?
Vengeance Racing pulled mine when they installed the cam.

3.) How good will the A8 be able to deal with 500 – 550 RWHP? Should I upgrade right away?
The stock A8 will be fine. With an aggressive cam to achieve these numbers you'll definitely need a converter though.

4.) What the best cams and header combo out there?
I have VR Stage II cam and TSP headers. Again, personal preference will need to be applied here.

5.) What tuner will fit the bill?
Definitely seek references here and don't be afraid to do a bit of travel to get things right the first time instead of someone using your car as a learning tool to stay local.

6.) Any good dynos around Tampa Bay?
Can't help here.

Thanks guys.
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 03:43 PM
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With all the work that it will take to get to that number. More so with a big cam in the car say good bye to the MPG big time. Robert
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 04:08 PM
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 09:11 PM
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Max HP with camming an LT1 engine depends on a couple things
IF you retain AFM you are very limited to cam choices---Even Comp Cams largest grind that is AFM friendly will limit you to about a 35-40 HP gain---These cams also require a VVT limiter kit
NOW If you chose to delete AFM--the cam choices become unlimited !!!They also require a VVT limiter kit----Texas Speed and Weapon X have cam kits that will add an easy 80 RWHP----Adding LT headers will push it to apprx 100 RWHP
And finally adding a basic set of C n C'd heads will push it to about 125 RWHP
They even have a set of better heads foe not much more $$ that will put you into the additional 150 RWHP that you seek----Plus even this max effort kit is still 1000's of dollars LESS than an installed SC kit
PS You can Google search "installing a cam on a C7 Corvette" and there are several sites thst go thru the procedure in detail----It is rather difficult as you have to remove the electric steering and many components in the front---Do-able on jack stands ?? Yes just more difficult---Deleting the AFM is somewhat complex as is installing the VVT limiter
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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What about forced induction are you worried about "dealing with" vs pulling your motor, taking half of it apart, changing cam to something that is going to be louder, idle like ****, be more stinky, make less power than a blower, etc etc. A cam is a huge compromise. A cam is 20 hrs of labor. A blower is about 6.

What makes you want a cam and what makes you not want a blower?

Last edited by Higgs Boson; Oct 25, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Oct 25, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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So you're thinking about installing a cam?

Heres my advice: GO BIG or GO HOME!
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Speedforhire
So you're thinking about installing a cam?

Heres my advice: GO BIG or GO HOME!
Well, if he goes big, he'll definitely go home, since sooner or later it will break down : )
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
A cam is a huge compromise. A cam is 20 hrs of labor. A blower is about 6


I cammed my C6. but in the C7, they usually pull the motor to do it.
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 08:56 AM
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Cam swap in c7z = 19hrs of knowing what you are doing, with a 2-post lift AND a means to support the short block in the car while it's in the air and the front cradle is out.

Do not skimp on valve springs and retainers, buy proven and tested

John
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 09:41 AM
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a lot of work and parts go into a cam swap. After having a cam in the past, i would go with a less aggressive cam. The car will drive better, and have less wear on the valve train.

I also would never dream of doing my own work.
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeLsx
a lot of work and parts go into a cam swap. After having a cam in the past, i would go with a less aggressive cam. The car will drive better, and have less wear on the valve train.

I also would never dream of doing my own work.
Good insight here. My previous experience with aftermarket cams in an engine was fairly similar, which is why if I cam this car, it will be a very MILD one. In a previous car I installed aftermarket cams on, the idle quality was terrible, cold starting was rough, and it loved to die with the A/C on.

I had no idea installing a cam in these cars was so labor-intensive. I was thinking I'd be doing myself a favor going for a cam or a cam/heads setup vs. just adding a Procharger kit and living happily ever after

Last edited by Kracka; Oct 26, 2016 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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If you had driveability issues like it dying then you need a better tuner....
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 12:39 PM
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Get a tent and sleeping bag. Could not resist!
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
If you had driveability issues like it dying then you need a better tuner....
Completely different platform and very large cams.

Last edited by Kracka; Oct 26, 2016 at 01:45 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 01:55 PM
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It can still be tuned, unless your running 40deg overlap on a tiny motor....proper tuning goes a long way. We can even do the opposite and make a small cam sound big. If you installed a cam and just got a dyno tune for WOT you would in fact be only about 10-20% tuned. There is so much more than timing and fueling at WOT to make it drive happy on the street. Find a GREAT tuner and pay him well, you won't regret it.

John
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Old Oct 26, 2016 | 02:48 PM
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Luckily, I knew my way around that ECU very well, and eventually supplied my tables (which I continued to work on after the professional dyno tune) to a lot of shops and tuners once I was able to get it dialed in as much as possible

Regardless, not the point of this thread... The ECU on the C7 I have not a clue about! Not something I would attempt on my own with how complex everything has become.

Last edited by Kracka; Oct 26, 2016 at 03:02 PM.
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To School me on camming

Old Oct 27, 2016 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Kracka
Completely different platform and very large cams.
Doesn't matter. Can make snap, crackle, pop into snap, crackle, stock.

Last edited by Higgs Boson; Oct 27, 2016 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 12:43 AM
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Old Oct 27, 2016 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JHEBERT
It can still be tuned, unless your running 40deg overlap on a tiny motor....proper tuning goes a long way. We can even do the opposite and make a small cam sound big. If you installed a cam and just got a dyno tune for WOT you would in fact be only about 10-20% tuned. There is so much more than timing and fueling at WOT to make it drive happy on the street. Find a GREAT tuner and pay him well, you won't regret it.

John
.....with you and Higgs. The cam is exactly why I miss my C6 GS. Even though this new Z car is boosted, it just doesn't have the character the GS had. After driving both cars now I think the GS was faster.
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