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I have a 2017 GS and want to lower on stock bolts. I see there's been some conflicting info on whether or not an alignment is required after lowering.
So what's the right answer? Alignment Y or N after lowering?
Ed
When I lowered my '15 C7 I ran an alignment check before and after and there were no changes due to the stock bolt lowering all the way. Probably worth mentioning that the total drop was 0.5" front and 0.4" rear.
A good while after the lowering I did end up changing the alignment, mainly putting in more negative camber on all 4 wheels. (-1.3 degrees)
I just lowered on stock bolts on my '17GS. I had done it on my C-5 (even cut the pad in half) so I know how to do it.
I took measurements before and after. The rear both sids were the same in the front the right side was 1/4 inch higher. These measurements before. After the rear are the same (though lower) the fronts the right side is now an inch higher. I have taken it out and some some hard stops even engaged the anti lock a few times. Still the right is higher.
I jacked it up again pulled the wheel this time and made sure the pad was up to the bottom side of the spring like the others. The threads out the top were about the same length, about two finger widths.
I know I could raze the left side but just can't understand what could be the problem.
Yes did take it out did about 5 miles with 5 hard stops.
But this morning I jacked it up and checked the bolt on the right side again and it was up all the way.
Then went to the left and turned the bolt about 2.5 turns.
Went about 2 miles with 3 hard stops. Came back and measured. It is about about 1/8 inch higher on the right.
Then I got to thinking, I am measuring at top lip of the fender not the frame (though I don't know how I could measure at the frame), it could be that the body is not resting on the frame evenly. I do recall it was higher on the right when I started by 3/8-1/2 inches.
Yes did take it out did about 5 miles with 5 hard stops.
But this morning I jacked it up and checked the bolt on the right side again and it was up all the way.
Then went to the left and turned the bolt about 2.5 turns.
Went about 2 miles with 3 hard stops. Came back and measured. It is about about 1/8 inch higher on the right.
Then I got to thinking, I am measuring at top lip of the fender not the frame (though I don't know how I could measure at the frame), it could be that the body is not resting on the frame evenly. I do recall it was higher on the right when I started by 3/8-1/2 inches.
Think I am on to something?
Yes you are height measurements always need to be made at the frame.
The weight may be off because of twist from the sway bars too.
Quite a few things go into a proper alignment that are not commonly addressed especially when lowering the car
Yes you are height measurements always need to be made at the frame.
The weight may be off because of twist from the sway bars too.
Quite a few things go into a proper alignment that are not commonly addressed especially when lowering the car
Thanks, so I guess will have to wait till it is up on the rack to get it right.
But is there a way to check it on the ground? Not much room to get under with the car resting on the tires.
Yes you are height measurements always need to be made at the frame.
The weight may be off because of twist from the sway bars too.
Quite a few things go into a proper alignment that are not commonly addressed especially when lowering the car
^^ this. Best to measure from the bottom of the frame/body to the ground.
At my dealer now getting the alignment checked will let you cats know if it went out of range.
I measured at the center of the wheel to the center of the fender. Not perfect I know but all four corners dropped 23-25mm. Rear is at 710mm and fronts at 680mm. Drove approx 75 miles.
update:::::no alignment needed
Last edited by brettmess24; Oct 9, 2017 at 06:58 PM.
What are the negatives to lowering the C7? On C5 that the other guy mentioned lowering including cutting the bolt pad destroys the suspension travel and makes the car slower. That's why racers use drop spindles on C5/6 or lower an inch or less. Lowering too much to make the car look good takes away suspension/shock travel and changes ideal a-arm alignment to the chassis. How low can the stock C7 go?
What are the negatives to lowering the C7? On C5 that the other guy mentioned lowering including cutting the bolt pad destroys the suspension travel and makes the car slower. That's why racers use drop spindles on C5/6 or lower an inch or less. Lowering too much to make the car look good takes away suspension/shock travel and changes ideal a-arm alignment to the chassis. How low can the stock C7 go?
23-25mm is all mine moved I don't think it's enough to have issues. Lowering bolts might be a different story...removing or trimming the rubber spacer might net another 8-10mm
Last edited by brettmess24; Oct 12, 2017 at 10:33 PM.
Ok, here is the deal. Measured the frame and it was still 1/4 inch high on the right side.
Took it to the alignment shop he measured the body and frame and agreed with my measurements. Then the question. Do I want the frame level or the body level. I elected to go with the body level. So he played around with the height adjusters and did the alignment with the body level. I know the frame is 1/8-1/4 off but I was told it won't matter.
I did mention the idea of buying after market lowering bolts. He said because the stock leveler bolts are very long I may have to unbolt a control arm to get the stock bolts off the rear. Seems like more work than I want to get involved in for a while.
Ok, here is the deal. Measured the frame and it was still 1/4 inch high on the right side.
Took it to the alignment shop he measured the body and frame and agreed with my measurements. Then the question. Do I want the frame level or the body level. I elected to go with the body level. So he played around with the height adjusters and did the alignment with the body level. I know the frame is 1/8-1/4 off but I was told it won't matter.
I did mention the idea of buying after market lowering bolts. He said because the stock leveler bolts are very long I may have to unbolt a control arm to get the stock bolts off the rear. Seems like more work than I want to get involved in for a while.
So body level ,car a bit lower, all is well.
Yep, cannot change the lowering bolts easily. I tried this in 2014, and when I dug in to taking things apart I realized it would be a food amount to get in there. Possibly even removing th leaf springs entirely
Sorry for being a little off topic but, I’m looking to lower my car and should I use the stock bolts to lower it or should I buy aftermarket lowering bolts? Aftermarket cost about $200 for stainless steel bolts if I remember correctly. Is that worth the money? Or stock bolts will just be as good? Thanks in advance.
Yep, cannot change the lowering bolts easily. I tried this in 2014, and when I dug in to taking things apart I realized it would be a food amount to get in there. Possibly even removing th leaf springs entirely
Originally Posted by Phudu2004
Sorry for being a little off topic but, I’m looking to lower my car and should I use the stock bolts to lower it or should I buy aftermarket lowering bolts? Aftermarket cost about $200 for stainless steel bolts if I remember correctly. Is that worth the money? Or stock bolts will just be as good? Thanks in advance.