When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have read several threads on here concerning oil. my question is anyone using royal purple? that's all I used in my ZL1 and never had an issue. I picked up 10 quarts of Mobil 1 at wal mart, but at 100 bucks for 10 quarts royal purple seems like a better value. thoughts?
Royal Purple is all I run in my vehicles. I've switched over to RP after the breakin change on both my C7's. Still driving my '04 Honda Pilot I bought new and have never touched the internals of the engine at 274k miles and counting.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; Apr 23, 2017 at 01:10 AM.
^^^ I paid over 100 bucks at wal mart for the full synthetic. the synthetic blend is cheaper. royal purple is also a full synthetic and dexos approved.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; Apr 23, 2017 at 01:10 AM.
With the $12 Mobil 1 rebate through the end of May for the 5 quart jugs...it makes the net cost at Wally World about $13-$14 for 5 quarts. That makes a C7 dry sump DIY oil change under $40 with a Mobil 1 M1-113 filter. Hard to beat. This coming from a Penzoil Ultra fan...
You get $15 rebate with a M1 filter along with a 5 qt jug.
Dayem? I thought all the Mobil 1 oil was a synthetic blend?
Elmer
Really? Mobile1 is the original 100% synthetic oil; was the only 100% synthetic oil on the market for a very long time; always has been and still is 100% synthetic.
Mobile 1 Full Synthetic is a group III. Mobile 1 Full Synthetic hasn't been A true Full Synthetic since the lawsuit was lost allowing any Group III + oil to be considered Synthetic here in the states.
A Full Synthetic Oil needs to be Group IV or Group V.
Royal Purple uses a blend of Group III, Group IV, and Group V.
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PurePlus) is a GTL (Gas To Liquid). First of its kind. It would probably be considered a Group III+ if that rating existed.
Group III oils use Crude Oil as its base stock (except for PUP, it uses natural gas).
Last edited by Steve Garrett; Apr 23, 2017 at 01:11 AM.
Really? Mobile1 is the original 100% synthetic oil; was the only 100% synthetic oil on the market for a very long time; always has been and still is 100% synthetic.
Actually if you look on the $25 wal mart 5 quart jug of mobil 1 it says its a synthetic blend, therefore not 100% full synthetic. now the more expensive $49 5 quart jug says full synthetic on the bottle
Just make sure the RP you use is Dexos1 rated. So far as I can tell, "Royal Purple High Performance Motor Oil" is now Dexos1-rated in 5W-30.
Honestly the lubricity of any of these oils, even the synthetic blends, is going to be equal for wear protection. The only difference you're going to see is in additive packages (detergents, etc) and in thermal breakdown protection. The latter can be important at the track, but on the street, I don't see much value in chasing the elusive "slightly better oil".
Actually if you look on the $25 wal mart 5 quart jug of mobil 1 it says its a synthetic blend, therefore not 100% full synthetic. now the more expensive $49 5 quart jug says full synthetic on the bottle
I'm not sure what you've been looking at, as the $25 jugs I've been buying at WM all say "full synthetic." I'm not aware of any synthetic blend carrying the Mobil 1 label. Here's the list on the Mobil 1 site.
Each of these 5-qt. jugs cost me $13 after the M1 rebates that I've been taking advantage of for the past three years, and there's one currently active. I have a good stockpile and will probably skip this rebate event.
Ironically, the only oil that has ever failed me is Royal Purple. I had hot-running turbo with my Subaru STi long time ago, and among various oils I've used, RP was the only one that has completely broken down and likely damaged the engine as well. I always stay away.
I use Mobil1 for engine (with excellent results; I did get oil analyzed), and Amsoil for the driveline.
When oil was API rated "SN" the amount of zinc was reduced in those oils, whether the oils was synthetic or mineral based conventional oil. The reason given was that zinc in the oil caused the cat converters to fail before the EPA mandatory 100,000 miles. Many of you, with older pre-roller lifter engines experienced flattening or damage to camshafts and lifters. The solution, since all oils were SN rated was to put in a bottle of camshaft anti wear additive which was the much needed zinc supplement. This was almost mandatory for all pre- cat converter Corvettes. This was your '67 Big Blocks and Small Blocks would not have cam wear issues. The current API rating is "SP", and additional zinc additives are still needed. However, in Royal Purple's consumer information booklet, the RP Break in Oil has all the zinc one's motor will need. It was also stated that their 5W30 Dexos approved full synthetic also has zinc additives to benefit all engines. They went on to say that no additional zinc additives need to be used when using Royal Purple.
Royal Purple
