checked the switch with meter and its good plus the switch lights up yellow and if you hold it in for 5 sec it turns green and all gauges light up and does a test mode

 

2016 out of warranty?? Miles? GM Buyback? Flood or salvage?

 

1000 miles on it and it got hit on the front impack bumper and blew steering wheel air bag so rebuilt title

 

I would take the starter out if you can and test it.

Were you ever able to start the car after the front end collision?

 

yes it started and then disconnect battery for 2 months and now it doesnt even click

 

If you had any frame repair or removed the front cradle I would start to measure ground resistance. This article even though not about vettes holds true to them. Its quick and simple and eliminates so many things right out of the gate with all the electronics on these cars.

http://cloreinfo.com/got-good-ground/

 

i rang out with meter on all gounds and they rang out and my battery is 12.03 volts on meter

 

Your battery voltage should read at least 12.6 volts. You may need to charge your battery.

 

I don't have the patience.It would have been to the dealer sooner than later

 

Are you sure rebuilt title voids the warranty? It probably does, but on my motorcycles rebuilt title does not void recalls.

 

Do you have a continuity setting on your meter?
Open circuit no sound, and get a tone if circuit closes?

When resistance changed above, the ohms should be close to zero, right?

 

IIRC he gets the Press Clutch to Start message without pressing the clutch and does not get the message with the clutch depressed. If so, the clutch position is being read correctly. Assume brake interlock functions correctly too. Too bad, since this would have been an easy fix.

Do you have 12 V at the starter?

Ron

 

Ron,

Good job of parsing his description! From what he wrote originally I thought he was getting the push clutch message with the pedal down.

Given that this could easily be a simple dead battery or bad connection situation. Check the voltage at the battery posts and at the connections when trying to crank; do these first because they are the most accessible. If the voltage holds up there (expect it to drop to not less than 10.5 and preferably around 11 volts under starter load, anything else indicates a problem with the battery or connections) then move towards the starter but check the battery first since access is easy.

Don't bother trying to measure cable or connection resistance with your Fluke meter because the resistance of good connections and cable in this service (main power feed to starter motor) will be a fraction of an ohm and will require a 4 wire test setup to measure. You CAN simulate a 4 wire test setup by measuring voltage drop across the suspected bad connection or cable using your meter set to measure voltage drop across the connection when it is under load. For example to check a battery terminal connection set your meter to a range that will read at least 15 volts (meters with auto range will sometimes get confused by the rapid change in voltage from no load to full load in tests like this so you may have to choose manual range if your meter is an auto range select model). Put one probe directly on the battery terminal and the other probe on the connector and have a friend try to start. Any appreciable voltage appearing on your meter indicates a bad connection. Use this same procedure for other suspect connections or cables in this high current circuit. CAUTION: Take off any jewelry while doing this work. The 12 volts from the battery isn't a shock hazard but if you get a ring, watch, or other jewelry between positive and ground it will arc weld itself in place and then cauterize off any body part as the jewelry melts itself or the battery goes Chernobyl.

Again trying to measure resistance with a standard service type DMM is meaningless for the starter primary circuit feed because at a typical starter draw .04 ohm (yes, four hundredths of an ohm) would drop the entire 12 volts across the undesired resistance leaving nothing for the starter itself.

 

Back in the day, there was a ground strap from the engine to the frame. It was needed because the motor mounts were made of rubber and there was no electrical circuit to operate the starter and such. The chance of a relatively new starter going bad is slim. But with a front end collision the strap could be broke. I'd check that first!

 

If it's anything like the classic old setups, anything marginal in the solenoid firing circuit will cause it to silently not crank. You turn the key and get nothing.

The easiest way to check it would be to "hotwire" the car - running a heavy gauge 12V jumper to momentarily touch the solenoid terminal and see if that cranks it. If you can get at it, it can be done with a screwdriver from the main terminal to the solenoid terminal, but I haven't looked at the LT4 down there to know if you can get at it.

Regardless, if it cranks it, then you've either got something actively refusing (like the clutch switch, etc) to even try to start or you've got too much resistance in the solenoid line for some reason (which can also be on the ground side of the circuit).

I consider it unlikely on a new car, but we're 55 posts in so I figure it can't hurt to mention it.