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✅ SOLUTION ‼️ AC blower motor not working

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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 08:53 PM
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Default ✅ SOLUTION ‼️ AC blower motor not working

Turned on the AC today for the first time in months and no air is coming out of the vents. The blower speed switch shows it is on and goes up and down when you twist it. You can hear the AC compressor engage when you push the AC button on and off. I checked all the fuses with a fuse checker front and back, granted I didn't see one specifically for the blower motor. All fuses all good. Still no air from the vents. Car is a early 2014 and just went out of warranty. Anybody else have this issue or can shed some light.
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Old Apr 29, 2017 | 11:45 PM
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Does the fan work in heat mode? Remember that you won't get heat or blower for several minutes until the engine warms up a bit if controls are in AUTO. Also set the temp to a number - not HI or LO.

Last edited by RonC7; Apr 30, 2017 at 09:44 AM. Reason: .
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RonC7
Does the fan work in heat mode? Remember that you won't get heat or blower for several minutes until the engine warms up a bit. Also set the temp to a number - not HI or LO.
Thats not accurate. You wont get hot air right after a startup but you will get cold and the blower will work immediately.

OP I wiuld first statt by checking the fuses. Theres a fuse specifically for the blower motor. Can't remember if its under the hood or in the rear compartment since we have two fuse boxes but I'd think its in the feont one. Start there..
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Old Apr 30, 2017 | 10:37 AM
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If it is the same as 2016 it is fuse 6 in the front electrical center.

I went on vacation one time in my pickup and when I got back and went to drive my 1989 Olds Toronado to the office when I turned on the heat I heard a clunk from the blower and no air. I parked it and took the truck that day. When I got home I investigated and while I had been on vacation some enterprising mouse had moved nearly an entire bag of dog treats into the blower compartment jamming the fan.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by NSC5
If it is the same as 2016 it is fuse 6 in the front electrical center.

I went on vacation one time in my pickup and when I got back and went to drive my 1989 Olds Toronado to the office when I turned on the heat I heard a clunk from the blower and no air. I parked it and took the truck that day. When I got home I investigated and while I had been on vacation some enterprising mouse had moved nearly an entire bag of dog treats into the blower compartment jamming the fan.
I will check that fuse again, and I hope it is not the other.
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Old Jun 11, 2017 | 02:38 PM
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Update:
Blower motor is located under the passenger side dash. Remove plastic cover and blower motor assembly is held in with three bolts. Simple to find and remove. The motor assembly has a built in resistor and I found the connector on the resistor was all burned up. Replaced the whole assembly with an AC Delco unit about 160.00 and installed a new cabin filter at the same time. Problem solved. I have air conditioning again and I avoided the dealer and I'm sure I saved a bunch of money.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 05:47 PM
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Hi Folks,

have the same problem here with my uncle's C7 Z06 Conv. - climate control display shows AUTO and fan speed but no air comes out of the vents.
He took it to the GM shop thinking he has still warranty but unfortunately he is out of warranty and they want to have 1250 $$ for the repair of the blower motor
Fuses are checked and good.
Have the shop manual for my 2013 C6 GS but nothing on hand for the 2016 C7 Z06 Conv.
Can somebody help me out here with the pages of the 2016 Z06 shop manual describing the change/repair of the blower motor?

Thanks in Advance

Lars
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Old Dec 29, 2018 | 01:44 PM
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I have 14 Z51 3LT and the blower motor cut out on the way to my company Christmas party about a month ago. You should have seen the looks I got checking my fuses wearing a full suit and tie! I'm no longer under warranty so I decided to take a look at it myself. It was a fairly easy removal there just isn't much space to move your arms in the foot well. If your fuses aren't blown I would recommend unplugging an plugging the motor back in. For whatever reason this worked for me. I actually pulled the entire assemble out removed the cover on the blower motor and tested the capacitors on the board they all had some voltage in them and nothing looked burnt. I then checked for voltage at the wire and sure enough it was there. plugged it back in and it started working. No idea why this would work but it did so before wrestling with those 5.5mm bolts I would try removing plug and plugging back in.

Last edited by RobBeacon; Dec 29, 2018 at 01:44 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RobBeacon
I have 14 Z51 3LT and the blower motor cut out on the way to my company Christmas party about a month ago. You should have seen the looks I got checking my fuses wearing a full suit and tie! I'm no longer under warranty so I decided to take a look at it myself. It was a fairly easy removal there just isn't much space to move your arms in the foot well. If your fuses aren't blown I would recommend unplugging an plugging the motor back in. For whatever reason this worked for me. I actually pulled the entire assemble out removed the cover on the blower motor and tested the capacitors on the board they all had some voltage in them and nothing looked burnt. I then checked for voltage at the wire and sure enough it was there. plugged it back in and it started working. No idea why this would work but it did so before wrestling with those 5.5mm bolts I would try removing plug and plugging back in.
Thanks RobBeacon for the suggestion to try disconnecting and reconnecting the connector - I'm back in business without any major hassle. A couple additional notes: Prior post is correct: Fuse is #6, a clear-top 40A "J-type(?)" fuse in the engine compartment fusebox, closest to the passenger-side firewall. (Visual map is on the underside of the fusebox cover.) To pull down the plastic air diverter (cover) in the passenger footwell, there are 2 large (e.g. 2") round plastic body push pins you can carefully remove with a gentle but forceful tug on both sides of each, one at a time. I didn't remove the entire diverter cover, as it was still attached somewhere else, but removing just those 2 pushpins allowed a glimpse and hands to enter the work area. The fan motor connector has a little catch on the bottom you need to push up while pulling on the connector. The catch is intended to stop the connector from vibrating loose. Pushing the connector solidly and firmly back onto the motor was all it took to get mine functional again. My suspicion is that it wasn't solidly connected at the factory (or perhaps at a prior service visit?).
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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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Default Blower motor/fan

Originally Posted by RobBeacon
I have 14 Z51 3LT and the blower motor cut out on the way to my company Christmas party about a month ago. You should have seen the looks I got checking my fuses wearing a full suit and tie! I'm no longer under warranty so I decided to take a look at it myself. It was a fairly easy removal there just isn't much space to move your arms in the foot well. If your fuses aren't blown I would recommend unplugging an plugging the motor back in. For whatever reason this worked for me. I actually pulled the entire assemble out removed the cover on the blower motor and tested the capacitors on the board they all had some voltage in them and nothing looked burnt. I then checked for voltage at the wire and sure enough it was there. plugged it back in and it started working. No idea why this would work but it did so before wrestling with those 5.5mm bolts I would try removing plug and plugging back in.
I checked all fuses, everything was good. Still wasn't working. Then I unplugged the plug directly to blower fan and plugged it back in and it started working again! Thanks for the info, saved a lot of time.
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 12:12 PM
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Hi guys,

quick update from my side - mice had build their nest in the rotor and blocked the motor so it burned - what the heck are this Corvette engineers nail together here?
Fuses are to avoid damage to the devices connected but in the Corvette engineers world the printed circuit is the weekest part in the chain and gets damaged w/o the fuse blown?
It was easy to remove the old burned blower motor. Removed the plastic air diverter like @DAVetRan has posted in thread #9 and had to remove 3 screws which hold the blower in place. It right falls down and out and can be unplugged.
Ordered first at Rockauto the FOUR SEASONS 75892 blower motor but had to return that since it doesn't fit. The blower builds up higher than the original and the metal plate to screw the bloser in place will not fit - that said their catalog information isn't correct.
I ended up with ordering the ACDELCO blower (15-81819) which fits like a charm.
As stated in another mice caused blower failure thread I vacuumed the vent channels and hoses before I assembled the new blower in again.
Plugged in, tested, screwed it in and had A/C again!
Problem solved for <200 bucks!

Cheers

Lars


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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 01:02 PM
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Where does this car live that it had mice nesting in the car?
Would be perfectly normal if we were talking about a barn find, but in a 2016 Z06?

It should never sit long enough for mice to take up residence
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 01:17 PM
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My uncle isnt driving over winter. Vette sits in his garage and he had the mice in the basement. S$it happens
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Old Jul 6, 2019 | 06:39 PM
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I'm posting this in a few threads because there were no photos.....want to make this easy for anyone looking to solve the problem.

Only took 2 minutes and saved a trip at the dealership and the $100 deductible for my extended warranty.


Use a tool like this to remove the 2 plastic retainers for the plastic panel under the glove box

this silver box houses the blower motor

press down on the clip while pulling out the plug

here's what the plug looks like- check for any damage before re-connecting
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Old Aug 5, 2019 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DAVetRan
Thanks RobBeacon for the suggestion to try disconnecting and reconnecting the connector - I'm back in business without any major hassle. A couple additional notes: Prior post is correct: Fuse is #6, a clear-top 40A "J-type(?)" fuse in the engine compartment fusebox, closest to the passenger-side firewall. (Visual map is on the underside of the fusebox cover.) To pull down the plastic air diverter (cover) in the passenger footwell, there are 2 large (e.g. 2") round plastic body push pins you can carefully remove with a gentle but forceful tug on both sides of each, one at a time. I didn't remove the entire diverter cover, as it was still attached somewhere else, but removing just those 2 pushpins allowed a glimpse and hands to enter the work area. The fan motor connector has a little catch on the bottom you need to push up while pulling on the connector. The catch is intended to stop the connector from vibrating loose. Pushing the connector solidly and firmly back onto the motor was all it took to get mine functional again. My suspicion is that it wasn't solidly connected at the factory (or perhaps at a prior service visit?).
Unhooked the plug then started car, plugged it back in and then worked fine. Thanks. Saved me a lot of headache
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Old Aug 27, 2019 | 09:55 PM
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Followed the same directions and eureka, my A/C works. However, I'm concerned as to why this is even an issue and how something so simple could fix it? I mean when I checked the plug it was in there tight (actually a little hard to remove). Has anyone had this happen again after unplugging and plugging back in?
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by GRSAMS
Followed the same directions and eureka, my A/C works. However, I'm concerned as to why this is even an issue and how something so simple could fix it? I mean when I checked the plug it was in there tight (actually a little hard to remove). Has anyone had this happen again after unplugging and plugging back in?
Yes, the "fix" described above lasted about a month for me.
It then abruptly died again on the hottest day of the whole summer. So I unplugged and re-plugged it back.
It lasted for a week. Then it failed again this past Saturday (on another really hot day). I unplugged and re-plugged it back....fixed it, but that only lasted 4 hours- failed again.
Unplugged and re-plugged it back and it's worked now for 3 days.
It's tough to schedule an appointment to bring it into the dealership because I don't know when it will fail next.

The HVAC system has been the most unreliable part of 2015. Have had no other re-occurring problems.
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To ✅ SOLUTION ‼️ AC blower motor not working

Old Aug 28, 2019 | 02:00 PM
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I had the same thing. It was a loose connector on the motor power wire inside the housing that caused my issue. Shifting the plug around would make it work again for a while.
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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 06:26 PM
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Ughhh....more problems with mine.
Started the car at 11:45am......set on this highest setting and no fan blower for the first 2 minutes.
Then all of the sudden it came on while driving.

Parked the car at 11:55am. Re-started the car at 12:25pm. NO FAN AT ALL. Drove 12 miles to the dealership- fan never kicked-in.

Had to leave my car at dealership; they will diagnose. I'm still under extended warranty- so $100 deductible.
Will let everyone know what they end up doing to it.
I told them that unplugging and replugging only is a temporary fix for mine.
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 05XLRtoC7_San Diego
Ughhh....more problems with mine.
Started the car at 11:45am......set on this highest setting and no fan blower for the first 2 minutes.
Then all of the sudden it came on while driving.

Parked the car at 11:55am. Re-started the car at 12:25pm. NO FAN AT ALL. Drove 12 miles to the dealership- fan never kicked-in.

Had to leave my car at dealership; they will diagnose. I'm still under extended warranty- so $100 deductible.
Will let everyone know what they end up doing to it.
I told them that unplugging and replugging only is a temporary fix for mine.
Hi, Guy!

What did the fix turn out to be for you? having the same issue with mine now...
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