Here's how the dealer fixed my HVAC.....the actual HVAC blower motor connector was faulty and had to be replaced.
The part # is 19368864.
The list price for the part is $48. You can get it online for about $24 (GMPartsDirect, etc).

The labor was $276 (!!!).
Total cost from the dealership would have been: $324

Luckily this was covered by my extended warranty, so I just had to pay $100 deductible.
The repair was completed on Sept 3. Have zero problems since picking it up.

Hope this helps.

 

sure does help, thanks!

 

I have to thank everyone who already had this figured out. bought a 10 dollar tool to remove the plastic cover -- unplugged and plugged back in -- blower works fine.

Took all of 20 minutes.

Thanks to everyone.

joe

 

Unplugged and plugged the hvac blower motor and it worked. So I’m sure it’s a faulty connector.
Part 19368864

 

I feel like this needs a sticky somewhere as unplugging and plugging in the blower is saving a lot of people a lot of money.

 

I have the same issue. What was the part number of the unit you purchased to fix your ac problem?

 

Worked like a charm brother thank you! I’m in 110 degree heat in Vegas. Life saver, I was ready to put this thing away for summer


QUOTE=05XLRtoC7_San Diego;1599707684]I'm posting this in a few threads because there were no photos.....want to make this easy for anyone looking to solve the problem.

Only took 2 minutes and saved a trip at the dealership and the $100 deductible for my extended warranty.


Use a tool like this to remove the 2 plastic retainers for the plastic panel under the glove box

this silver box houses the blower motor

press down on the clip while pulling out the plug

here's what the plug looks like- check for any damage before re-connecting[/QUOTE]

 

Thank you sooooooooooooo much!!! In 5 minutes I fixed it. The fan is working.

 

No it stays in.

 

have the same problem on my 2014 c7 went to unplug the blower motor and found the wiring red hot. plug looks good has anyone noticed their wiring getting excessively hot (unable to touch) when i wiggled the plug the blower came on dont know if i need a motor or just the connector examined the plug could find nothing obviously wrong.

 

SOLVED! Hi everyone. Like most of you I have been suffering with this issue as well. It was 102 degrees F here in blistering Bakersfield Ca. yesterday. And as I often do, I drove up the Kern Canyon, topless, AC and music blasting, to Lake Isabella and have lunch and a beer at Kern River Brewing Co. And of course AC stops blowing again. If you ever get there be sure to try the "Just Outstanding" IPA beer and the Blue Burger. OK enough of an intro! So I had already tried the- Unplug, clean and dielectric grease solution- with short lived results. So while the fan was not working, I pulled the plug and tested for 12 volts, test ok, Next I read that the fan speed is regulated by a PWM (pulse width modulation) signal by the middle green wire. A Small controller within the fan receives the signal and applies the called for voltage to produce the called for speed. I also read that some people have fixed the issue by replacing the blower motor unit themselves or pay extreme (about $1200) amounts to a dealer for replacement. Well, since I'm an IT Tech and Electronics Tech I decided to tackle this issue. I removed the plug, removed the 3- 7/16 inch screws, front 2 first, If you do this, be absolutely sure to pack a rag into the open area above the carpet edge, I lost a socket there and could never find it. Then remove the back screw. Lower the fan unit. Next remove the 4 Philips head screws and remove the plastic cover. Notice the connector pins. The negative pin, the one the black wire connects to, will be discolored brown. What's happening is there is a bad connection at this point which produces heat and burning. Excessive heat over a long time can also damage the plastic part of the plug itself. Anytime you have a bad connection it will produce heat at that point. A bad connection presents a higher resistance (R) than normal at that point. As current flows thru that point, heat is produced. By combining Kirchhoff's Wattage Law and Ohm's Law formulas we get P=I*I*R. As you can see, as R-Resistance (in this case a bad connection) increases, the Power increases and creates more heat than normal at that point. (Feeling around for hot wires, fuses and connectors is a good way of troubleshooting bad or intermittent connections.) As our connection gets hotter and hotter, the metals expand and all of a sudden the connection opens and our fan stops.
Ok, OK down to the fix. All you have to do is slightly bend that brown pin up for access to both sides. Then use a fine sandpaper and sand both sides until the brown is gone and you see either silver or copper. Then bend the pin back into place and blow off the area well to remove all sanding particles. Now apply some dielectric grease to all 3 pins. Replace cover and 4 screws. Remount the fan with 3 screws (front 2 screws first. It is easiest to position the fan on metal cover and hold one screw in the front hole. Now you can almost place the fan in location and using a flashlight you can align and start the front screw into the raised plastic hole and finger tighten. Then use socket and tighten just another full turn. Repeat procedure for second and then back screws. Now tighten up all 3 screws. Plug in the connector and replace the plastic kick cover. Don't forget to position the floor lamp. Remove your rag. Startup and you now have saved $1200 at the dealer! Good Luck. Please reply with your success comments to encourage others.

 

I just went though this. I was returning from visiting family in Ohio when the a/c quit one hour into a 10-hour drive in 90° heat.

When I got home I tried the plug idea first. No go, so I ordered a new blower motor assembly. I got the genuine Delco part rather than something made of Chinesium off eBay.



A quick A-B comparison of the old motor to the new one didn't reveal anything visually, but when I tried to spin the fan on the old one it would make only about a quarter of a turn before coming to a full stop. The new one would spin several times before stopping.

It was very fiddly to install. There is a stamped metal "pan" that holds the blower motor/fan assembly in place. When you drop the pan the assembly just falls out of its hole. There are slots on the motor assembly that correspond to the screw tabs underneath the dash. The problem is that there is nothing to hold it up into alignment as you're trying to push the pan into position underneath it. Some pins or fittings that indexed the pan to the motor would've been nice. Compounding the problem is that you're working upside down in a very cramped space in which to work. What a PITA.


Anyway, I have a/c now with a total cost of $205. I don't even want to know what a GM dealership would've charged.

 

Sorry your motor was seizing up. 205 is probably 5Xs less than what the dealer would have charged!

 

Thanks to those above who posted the quick fix; My '17 Z06 blower went inop all of a sudden the other day, I waited until late tonight to adress it (due to the 98° Temps the past few days), and low and behold, after pulling the 2 plastic trim "push fasteners" and then disconnecting the 3 pin clip and reconnecting, the blower kicked on with no issues.

Thanks again to the above posters for helping me get my AC back!!

 

Glad it worked!!!

 

Explanation of why it happens it is caused by what is know as fretting corrosion this can be fixed by cleaning the connectors if found quickly. However if the corrosion is not fixed right away (and you can’t be sure) the connection will get hot and after time the spring tension of the connectors will go away, Problem comes back!
So you may have to replace the plug connector on the wir that is overheating for a long term fix

 

I love this forum. Yesterday, Sitting in line for my first afternoon autocross run and the ac motor stops blowing. Just north of Jacksonville fl and it is damn hot and humid. As I’m checking under the hood it starts to pour, I quit and had a miserable 2 hr ride home with no ac. Search this morning turns up this tread and the fix, loose connector as indicated. Thanks all for sharing and saving us trips to dealers.

 

If you think a quick plug and unplug will fix it, it'll probably just buy you some time. In the fan motor due to heat and replacing the connector will not help, you will have to bend the pin. As previously mentioned. A lot of people have discussed aligning the metal pan with the fan motor. It is difficult, but if you hot glue the two together, it makes it a cinch.

 

Mine is acting up again, had to whack the bottom a few times over the past week or so. Guess I'm in to remove and trouble shoot that pin that needs bending for the fix. I assume the fan motor and pan come apart when you disassemble the unit and this makes it difficult to reassemble? If I understand correctly, you hot glue the motor to the pan and the screw holes line up for the reassembly?

 

I had the same issue on my 2016 also. I had extended warranty and it was covered. Temp fix before permanent fix is to tap/hit on the bottom of the glove compartment works for a while and shuts off again intermittently.