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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:13 PM
  #21  
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I have the automatic. I resorted to buying an ingersol rand pneumatic impact with a max torque of over 900 ft/lbs. Running it with 120 psi, I still couldn't get the bolt off without heating it. As far as installing the bolt, Procharger supplies a new bolt and I just used the impact wrench at a lower setting to install it. It ain't coming off......
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:31 PM
  #22  
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You cant reuse the crank bolt, its a stretch bolt. You have to replace it with a new one and torque to correct spec... i have an extra one in the garage. Ill get you the part number if you like.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:33 AM
  #23  
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Guys stop with the bad information. He is installing a procharger kit, it seems none of you have done so. I have installed one on my M7 car exactly 1 year ago, if auto you may need to pin the engine somehow:
1) Use a breaker bar with a 3-4 foot pipe slid onto the end. Have someone hold the brakes. Super easy.
2) Go to autozone and borrow a 250 ft-lb tq wrench, slide the pipe onto that and use it to torque the bolt to the specs given by procharger (240 ft-lbs if I remember correctly). You may need two people pulling on it or just the perfect angle. Once again, not hard.

You don't need a pulley puller or a torque multiplier or another crank bolt (the kit gives you a longer one), or anything fancy. I don't think you can fit an impact there anyways. Take a look at the below picture. There is not much space. Contact procharger, they can email you the install instructions so you can read it before getting the kit.

Other than the normal garage tools, I needed:
4 ft pipe that can fit over the tq wrench and breaker bar, 250 ftlb torque wrench, 4 ft pry bar, a 2nd set of hands, bent nose needle nose pliers for spark plug wires, a couple u joints with different size extensions, plastic panel pry tool (preferred).

Read my thread on my install, it explains any problems I've had and some hints:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-all-good.html

Search the forced induction section, there's at least another couple of writeups on this exact install (not A&A, not ECS). Oh yeah! and 1 preventative maintenance thing you can do to make sure you don't run into the problem I had. Take the tensioner assembly apart carefully and add grease/never-seize to all the moving parts. Mine wasn't moving properly and took me a while to realize why I had boost loss.

Attachment 48358639

Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; May 2, 2017 at 12:47 AM.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:38 AM
  #24  
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The question for the OP is.....do you have an automatic transmission or a manual?
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:56 AM
  #25  
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If you do have an automatic, I guess you can follow Procharger's tips instead of ours......
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BrunoTheMellow
Guys stop with the bad information. He is installing a procharger kit, it seems none of you have done so. I have installed one on my M7 car exactly 1 year ago, if auto you may need to pin the engine somehow:
1) Use a breaker bar with a 3-4 foot pipe slid onto the end. Have someone hold the brakes. Super easy.
2) Go to autozone and borrow a 250 ft-lb tq wrench, slide the pipe onto that and use it to torque the bolt to the specs given by procharger (240 ft-lbs if I remember correctly). You may need two people pulling on it or just the perfect angle. Once again, not hard.

You don't need a pulley puller or a torque multiplier or another crank bolt (the kit gives you a longer one), or anything fancy. I don't think you can fit an impact there anyways. Take a look at the below picture. There is not much space. Contact procharger, they can email you the install instructions so you can read it before getting the kit.

Other than the normal garage tools, I needed:
4 ft pipe that can fit over the tq wrench and breaker bar, 250 ftlb torque wrench, 4 ft pry bar, a 2nd set of hands, bent nose needle nose pliers for spark plug wires, a couple u joints with different size extensions, plastic panel pry tool (preferred).

Read my thread on my install, it explains any problems I've had and some hints:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-all-good.html

Search the forced induction section, there's at least another couple of writeups on this exact install (not A&A, not ECS). Oh yeah! and 1 preventative maintenance thing you can do to make sure you don't run into the problem I had. Take the tensioner assembly apart carefully and add grease/never-seize to all the moving parts. Mine wasn't moving properly and took me a while to realize why I had boost loss.
Awesome write-up in your thread man. Thanks so much for this.

I've gone and purchased myself a 4ft breaker bar and 4ft pry bar in preparation. I've already got a 220 ft lbs torque wrench but its on a pretty short handle, so I'll need to get a cheater pipe to go over it. My impact gun can do 300ft lbs, but 60lbs over spec is going to be a bit risky I would say?

I'm pretty sure I have everything else already. Did the spark plugs come in the kit, or did you need to buy them separately?
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Old May 2, 2017 | 09:23 AM
  #27  
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A pipe on a breaker bar should work just fine.

By the way, a friend tried to reinstall the crank pulley on his C6 using the old crank bolt. Its too short and stripped the threads in crank. Had to have it drilled and re tapped.

Lesson learned....always use a long pulley installation bolt to pull the new pulley on the crankshaft.

Standard procedure is to pin the pulley on the crank anyways.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:10 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RussM05
Standard procedure is to pin the pulley on the crank anyways.
No need to pin the pulley on a C7 like you would on a C6.. The C7 crank is keyed
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Awesome write-up in your thread man. Thanks so much for this.

I've gone and purchased myself a 4ft breaker bar and 4ft pry bar in preparation. I've already got a 220 ft lbs torque wrench but its on a pretty short handle, so I'll need to get a cheater pipe to go over it. My impact gun can do 300ft lbs, but 60lbs over spec is going to be a bit risky I would say?

I'm pretty sure I have everything else already. Did the spark plugs come in the kit, or did you need to buy them separately?
It is what we are here for!

No, the plugs not come with the kit, I bought them on Amazon IIRC. PM me your email and i'll send you the install instruction.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:55 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Awesome write-up in your thread man. Thanks so much for this.

I've gone and purchased myself a 4ft breaker bar and 4ft pry bar in preparation. I've already got a 220 ft lbs torque wrench but its on a pretty short handle, so I'll need to get a cheater pipe to go over it. My impact gun can do 300ft lbs, but 60lbs over spec is going to be a bit risky I would say?

I'm pretty sure I have everything else already. Did the spark plugs come in the kit, or did you need to buy them separately?
For spark plugs, you're going to want to go with NGK LTR7IX-11's (NGK #6510)

Ant
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Old May 2, 2017 | 03:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
For spark plugs, you're going to want to go with NGK LTR7IX-11's (NGK #6510)

Ant
Thanks. Probably a silly question...but I need 8 right?

My old v8 AMG Mercedes had 16 plugs, which totally stumped me when I first went to change them
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Old May 2, 2017 | 03:28 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Thanks. Probably a silly question...but I need 8 right?

My old v8 AMG Mercedes had 16 plugs, which totally stumped me when I first went to change them
Yes, 8.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 06:09 PM
  #33  
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My old CL65 had 24 spark plugs!
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:03 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
My old CL65 had 24 spark plugs!
Remind me never to buy a CL65!!
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:14 PM
  #35  
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From: Thomas Texas
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
My old CL65 had 24 spark plugs!
My Mercedes ML55 AMG had 16 plugs and took me half a day to change them. Can't image changing 24 plugs in a small sedan!
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