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Breaking the crank bolt

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Old May 1, 2017 | 06:28 AM
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Default Breaking the crank bolt

I'm going to be installing a Procharger on my Stingray in the next few weeks. The only thing that worries me is breaking the crank bolt free, and then being able to re-torque it to spec.

I've purchased a cordless torque wrench with 1625Nm of breakaway torque and a large breaker bar, but do not have a heat gun.

Am I going to be able to get this nut off? Any tips?
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Old May 1, 2017 | 06:48 AM
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Youre not going to need a heat gun. Removing mine wasnt much trouble.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 07:08 AM
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I had my 2005 done when the scare first came around .Just as a dealer precaution at the time as it was the first one in the area delivered . Did it ever go to a full fledged recall ?
Never knew of a real malfunction .
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Old May 1, 2017 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueDevilZ51
Youre not going to need a heat gun. Removing mine wasnt much trouble.
Cool, and what did you use to re-torque afterwards? I have a torque wrench that is about 2ft long, but I imagine the bolt needs some pretty massive torquing?
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Old May 1, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Cool, and what did you use to re-torque afterwards? I have a torque wrench that is about 2ft long, but I imagine the bolt needs some pretty massive torquing?
yes, i used a torque wrench to install the new crank pulley. Youre going to need to get the correct harmonic balancer reinstall tool with the deep bolt to catch the crank. I ordered mine from Summit Racing, the LS motor type install tool.

Last edited by BlueDevilZ51; May 1, 2017 at 08:36 AM.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueDevilZ51
yes, i used a torque wrench to install the new crank pulley. Youre going to need to get the correct harmonic balancer reinstall tool with the deep bolt to catch the crank. I ordered mine from Summit Racing, the LS motor type install tool.
Correct you will need an installer bolt.


OP, you will not be able to use a breaker bar as the engine will turn over before breaking the bolt loose or tightening it to spec. Not unless you have a flywheel holder tool and pull the starter to install it. I doubt your cordless impact will provide the power needed to release the bolt personally. I had to use my pneumatic impact rated for 750ft lbs to get it off.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:30 AM
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If you have a manual transmission, try putting it in 6th or 7th gear (even 4th if you want to stay with the 1:1 ratio), engaging parking/emergency break, & then removing. I used this method on my Porsche 928 (used 5th gear) a couple of times.
Good luck.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Correct you will need an installer bolt.


OP, you will not be able to use a breaker bar as the engine will turn over before breaking the bolt loose or tightening it to spec. Not unless you have a flywheel holder tool and pull the starter to install it. I doubt your cordless impact will provide the power needed to release the bolt personally. I had to use my pneumatic impact rated for 750ft lbs to get it off.
My cordless is rated at 700ft lbs of constant torque with a much higher breakaway torque, so I'm hoping it might just do it?

What is the installer bolt? The procharger kit doesn't need the pulley removed - just the bolt, and then I assume they provide a new bolt as it has to go through both the supercharger pulley and the accessory pulley.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:11 AM
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This is the installer tool i used, worked great.
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum...FdhMDQod8bADpA

as far as holding back the engine when trying to remove or reinstall the crank bolt. I removed the rubber cover that is under the car. It gives you access to the converter. I feed a chain through the hole in the converter. Then the other end i put a screw driver through the opposite ends links of the chain and the screw drive spanning the access window. That kept the engine from spinning, i was in a pinch but it worked great.

Last edited by BlueDevilZ51; May 1, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
My cordless is rated at 700ft lbs of constant torque with a much higher breakaway torque, so I'm hoping it might just do it?

What is the installer bolt? The procharger kit doesn't need the pulley removed - just the bolt, and then I assume they provide a new bolt as it has to go through both the supercharger pulley and the accessory pulley.
If you aren't removing the pulley itself, then you do not need an installer bolt.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:49 AM
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I've heard of a "torque multiplier" where you can use your existing torque wrench and then double the setting, for example. But looking on Amazon I don't see anything similar to what I'd expect. Does anyone know what I'm referring to, and can you post a link if so?
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
I've heard of a "torque multiplier" where you can use your existing torque wrench and then double the setting, for example. But looking on Amazon I don't see anything similar to what I'd expect. Does anyone know what I'm referring to, and can you post a link if so?
Do you mean a cheater pipe? Just goes on the end of your torque wrench to give you more leverage and thus the ability to achieve a higher torque.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
If you aren't removing the pulley itself, then you do not need an installer bolt.
Thanks for clearing that up!

is the crank bolt a standard lefty-loosey?

Does anyone know what the torque-to specs are for the crank bolt?

im still unsure how I will torque the bolt back up again. My cordless impact wrench would be a bit brutal for that I think.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Do you mean a cheater pipe? Just goes on the end of your torque wrench to give you more leverage and thus the ability to achieve a higher torque.
No, it's a little gear reduction box that multiplies your input torque from your torque wrench by 2X, for example. So if you need 220lbtf, you set your wrench to 110lbft, use the box, and you get 220lbft.

You could do it with a cheater bar and some measuring and some math, I suppose, but I'm talking about an accurate way to do high torque without a 500lbft torque wrench.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DAVE396LT1
No, it's a little gear reduction box that multiplies your input torque from your torque wrench by 2X, for example. So if you need 220lbtf, you set your wrench to 110lbft, use the box, and you get 220lbft.

You could do it with a cheater bar and some measuring and some math, I suppose, but I'm talking about an accurate way to do high torque without a 500lbft torque wrench.
That sounds like a pretty sweet device.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Thanks for clearing that up!

is the crank bolt a standard lefty-loosey?

Does anyone know what the torque-to specs are for the crank bolt?

im still unsure how I will torque the bolt back up again. My cordless impact wrench would be a bit brutal for that I think.
Left loosey righty tighty. I can look up the specs for tq on it later tonight when I get home if nobody else chimes in before then.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Left loosey righty tighty. I can look up the specs for tq on it later tonight when I get home if nobody else chimes in before then.
Thanks man
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Old May 1, 2017 | 07:38 PM
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If it's a manual, you can leave the starter on. Remove the dust cover on the drivers side behind the oil filter and you can slip in a 6mm or so Allen wrench into a hole in the flywheel to lock the crank. If an a8, I use the Kent Moore tool and remove th starter.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:26 PM
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2015 Stingray Crankshaft balancer bolt torque specs;

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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:59 PM
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If you have a powerful enough impact gun it will break the bolt loose without the engine turning over.
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