When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to be installing a Procharger on my Stingray in the next few weeks. The only thing that worries me is breaking the crank bolt free, and then being able to re-torque it to spec.
I've purchased a cordless torque wrench with 1625Nm of breakaway torque and a large breaker bar, but do not have a heat gun.
Am I going to be able to get this nut off? Any tips?
I had my 2005 done when the scare first came around .Just as a dealer precaution at the time as it was the first one in the area delivered . Did it ever go to a full fledged recall ?
Never knew of a real malfunction .
Youre not going to need a heat gun. Removing mine wasnt much trouble.
Cool, and what did you use to re-torque afterwards? I have a torque wrench that is about 2ft long, but I imagine the bolt needs some pretty massive torquing?
Cool, and what did you use to re-torque afterwards? I have a torque wrench that is about 2ft long, but I imagine the bolt needs some pretty massive torquing?
yes, i used a torque wrench to install the new crank pulley. Youre going to need to get the correct harmonic balancer reinstall tool with the deep bolt to catch the crank. I ordered mine from Summit Racing, the LS motor type install tool.
Last edited by BlueDevilZ51; May 1, 2017 at 08:36 AM.
yes, i used a torque wrench to install the new crank pulley. Youre going to need to get the correct harmonic balancer reinstall tool with the deep bolt to catch the crank. I ordered mine from Summit Racing, the LS motor type install tool.
Correct you will need an installer bolt.
OP, you will not be able to use a breaker bar as the engine will turn over before breaking the bolt loose or tightening it to spec. Not unless you have a flywheel holder tool and pull the starter to install it. I doubt your cordless impact will provide the power needed to release the bolt personally. I had to use my pneumatic impact rated for 750ft lbs to get it off.
If you have a manual transmission, try putting it in 6th or 7th gear (even 4th if you want to stay with the 1:1 ratio), engaging parking/emergency break, & then removing. I used this method on my Porsche 928 (used 5th gear) a couple of times.
Good luck.
OP, you will not be able to use a breaker bar as the engine will turn over before breaking the bolt loose or tightening it to spec. Not unless you have a flywheel holder tool and pull the starter to install it. I doubt your cordless impact will provide the power needed to release the bolt personally. I had to use my pneumatic impact rated for 750ft lbs to get it off.
My cordless is rated at 700ft lbs of constant torque with a much higher breakaway torque, so I'm hoping it might just do it?
What is the installer bolt? The procharger kit doesn't need the pulley removed - just the bolt, and then I assume they provide a new bolt as it has to go through both the supercharger pulley and the accessory pulley.
as far as holding back the engine when trying to remove or reinstall the crank bolt. I removed the rubber cover that is under the car. It gives you access to the converter. I feed a chain through the hole in the converter. Then the other end i put a screw driver through the opposite ends links of the chain and the screw drive spanning the access window. That kept the engine from spinning, i was in a pinch but it worked great.
Last edited by BlueDevilZ51; May 1, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
My cordless is rated at 700ft lbs of constant torque with a much higher breakaway torque, so I'm hoping it might just do it?
What is the installer bolt? The procharger kit doesn't need the pulley removed - just the bolt, and then I assume they provide a new bolt as it has to go through both the supercharger pulley and the accessory pulley.
If you aren't removing the pulley itself, then you do not need an installer bolt.
I've heard of a "torque multiplier" where you can use your existing torque wrench and then double the setting, for example. But looking on Amazon I don't see anything similar to what I'd expect. Does anyone know what I'm referring to, and can you post a link if so?
I've heard of a "torque multiplier" where you can use your existing torque wrench and then double the setting, for example. But looking on Amazon I don't see anything similar to what I'd expect. Does anyone know what I'm referring to, and can you post a link if so?
Do you mean a cheater pipe? Just goes on the end of your torque wrench to give you more leverage and thus the ability to achieve a higher torque.
Do you mean a cheater pipe? Just goes on the end of your torque wrench to give you more leverage and thus the ability to achieve a higher torque.
No, it's a little gear reduction box that multiplies your input torque from your torque wrench by 2X, for example. So if you need 220lbtf, you set your wrench to 110lbft, use the box, and you get 220lbft.
You could do it with a cheater bar and some measuring and some math, I suppose, but I'm talking about an accurate way to do high torque without a 500lbft torque wrench.
No, it's a little gear reduction box that multiplies your input torque from your torque wrench by 2X, for example. So if you need 220lbtf, you set your wrench to 110lbft, use the box, and you get 220lbft.
You could do it with a cheater bar and some measuring and some math, I suppose, but I'm talking about an accurate way to do high torque without a 500lbft torque wrench.
If it's a manual, you can leave the starter on. Remove the dust cover on the drivers side behind the oil filter and you can slip in a 6mm or so Allen wrench into a hole in the flywheel to lock the crank. If an a8, I use the Kent Moore tool and remove th starter.