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Mighty Mouse Wild catch can install help

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Old May 7, 2017 | 05:26 AM
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Default Mighty Mouse Wild catch can install help

I started installing my MM Wild catch can yesterday on my Dry Sump Z51, but am not 100% sure where to connect the 3/8" hose to.

Here are the instructions:




Am I right that I should cap off the valley port, and connect the hose to the PCV Return? I just need reassurance really as the 3/8" hose is a lot longer than it needs to be to connect to this port.

Also I'm always dubious about capping off anything PCV related on the engine.

Last edited by jimxms; May 7, 2017 at 05:26 AM.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 11:26 AM
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To the intake valley port.

Last edited by robert miller; May 7, 2017 at 11:27 AM.
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Old May 7, 2017 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by robert miller
To the intake valley port.
So into the 'valley port' and cap off the 'pcv return' right?

The wording of the instructions is pretty hard to follow IMO. It mentions valley plate port and then connecting it to the airbox or cap it off.

As I'm not boosted yet and still have the stock airbox, I assume i should probably block off the nipple on the airbox too as that's just going to let in unfiltered air?

Last edited by jimxms; May 7, 2017 at 11:42 AM.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
So into the 'valley port' and cap off the 'pcv return' right?

The wording of the instructions is pretty hard to follow IMO. It mentions valley plate port and then connecting it to the airbox or cap it off.

As I'm not boosted yet and still have the stock airbox, I assume i should probably block off the nipple on the airbox too as that's just going to let in unfiltered air?
My 3/8 hose is connected to the "PCV return". That's your vacuum source. I'm blown but that doesn't matter as far as your question is concerned. My "valley port" is routed to my air cleaner tube. But I suppose it can be capped off. That is your PCV valve, but the catch can has a check valve already.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:08 AM
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Old May 8, 2017 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Max Bet
Man what is all of this stuff you have tubed into your hoses. I am blown motor just got mine from him and done have nothing like this routed into it. Please tell me more I also told him & got mild to wild set up. Let me know...Robert
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Old May 8, 2017 | 08:58 AM
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Ok so this is how I have it plumbed in right now:





Thumbs up?
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Old May 8, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
Ok so this is how I have it plumbed in right now:





Thumbs up?
So you have the one line from can to the drivers side V/cover. Then the other line going over to the dry sump can & will also say you did a cap off on the dry sump can that went to the pcv small line on your dry sump. But also you at the moment don't have a blower on your car correct... Robert

Last edited by robert miller; May 8, 2017 at 10:57 AM.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by robert miller
So you have the one line from can to the drivers side V/cover. Then the other line going over to the dry sump can & will also say you did a cap off on the dry sump can that went to the pcv small line on your dry sump. But also you at the moment don't have a blower on your car correct... Robert
Right now I have no blower, but in 2 weeks I will be procharged.

As far as I can tell, I have mine plumbed in the same as Max Bet - aside from all the extra plumbing for boost reference etc?
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:07 PM
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on the early dry sump cars the driver cover goes to the airbox like the non dry sump cars.

on the *revised* pcv dry sump cars it goes over to the join in with the dry sump hoses.

depending on if you have this hose or not i believe is where the confusion stems.

if you have the revised pcv the most logical route is to send to the dry sump since that is where the hose we are stealing the spot of went.
if you have the older setup then as seen in the latest pic, you send the valley again to where the hose we are stealing went to (cold air tube).

older dry sump cars also have the option to tie this into the oil tank, which would simulate how the revised plumbing would be as you see above.

it also could just be capped off, if all the above seems to complicated, and also cap off the cold air box or the other end of the system as it heads to the dry sump.

all of the above is for my *wild* kits only since they take over the driver valve cover. the mild kits (for either dry sump new/old or non) the draft can connects only between the valley and the intake manifold.

Last edited by David@MMS; May 8, 2017 at 01:08 PM.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by robert miller
Man what is all of this stuff you have tubed into your hoses. I am blown motor just got mine from him and done have nothing like this routed into it. Please tell me more I also told him & got mild to wild set up. Let me know...Robert

yep, lots of stuff...
Well, that's a vacuum manifold, so I'm using it instead of using a bunch of plastic tees. The hoses are routed to the catch can, the blow-off valve, a mechanical vacuum gauge and the meth system.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Bet
yep, lots of stuff...
Well, that's a vacuum manifold, so I'm using it instead of using a bunch of plastic tees. The hoses are routed to the catch can, the blow-off valve, a mechanical vacuum gauge and the meth system.

the best idea is to move those away from the pcv return port for the most accurate and stable signal (since the pcv system is a very carefully regulated vacuum leak)
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by David@MMS
on the early dry sump cars the driver cover goes to the airbox like the non dry sump cars.

on the *revised* pcv dry sump cars it goes over to the join in with the dry sump hoses.

depending on if you have this hose or not i believe is where the confusion stems.

if you have the revised pcv the most logical route is to send to the dry sump since that is where the hose we are stealing the spot of went.
if you have the older setup then as seen in the latest pic, you send the valley again to where the hose we are stealing went to (cold air tube).

older dry sump cars also have the option to tie this into the oil tank, which would simulate how the revised plumbing would be as you see above.

it also could just be capped off, if all the above seems to complicated, and also cap off the cold air box or the other end of the system as it heads to the dry sump.

all of the above is for my *wild* kits only since they take over the driver valve cover. the mild kits (for either dry sump new/old or non) the draft can connects only between the valley and the intake manifold.
Thanks David for the post in here on this.. Robert
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