Engine removal
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 495
Likes: 51
From: Woodlands Texas
Engine removal
Getting ready to do cam, dod delete, springs and billet bottom end. Will be doing this in my garage. I think I remember seeing a write-up on how to remove the engine from the top. I did not see it in the how to section though.
And also I will be using a floor jack and jackstands to get it high enough for under access. Where will i be putting the floor jack, front/rear and where will be the best point for the jackstands?
Thanks!!
And also I will be using a floor jack and jackstands to get it high enough for under access. Where will i be putting the floor jack, front/rear and where will be the best point for the jackstands?
Thanks!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 8,729
Likes: 1,505
From: Redmond WA
Read the Helm shop manual. Read the whole engine removal section BEFORE you turn a single nut, at least skim it.
If you're attempting this without a manual and hoping you'll get detailed enough information on a forum to R&R a modern engine, I can only say "Buy the manual". That'd be some wild false economy, they're only about $300 I think.
If you're attempting this without a manual and hoping you'll get detailed enough information on a forum to R&R a modern engine, I can only say "Buy the manual". That'd be some wild false economy, they're only about $300 I think.
I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Read the Helm shop manual. Read the whole engine removal section BEFORE you turn a single nut, at least skim it.
If you're attempting this without a manual and hoping you'll get detailed enough information on a forum to R&R a modern engine, I can only say "Buy the manual". That'd be some wild false economy, they're only about $300 I think.
If you're attempting this without a manual and hoping you'll get detailed enough information on a forum to R&R a modern engine, I can only say "Buy the manual". That'd be some wild false economy, they're only about $300 I think.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 495
Likes: 51
From: Woodlands Texas
Thanks!
Im no novice to engine work and could work my way through it. But admittedly, it will save a lot of time instead of having to learn what has to be reomved or taken out of the way as i go. And i thank you in advance.
If i was not doing the bottom end, it looks like just a regular DOD cam swap could be done in car pretty easily. I just read about a fabbed up cross brace so you can lower the cradle just enough to remove the pan for the chain removal. On my LS motors i just loosened the lower mount strut and put spacers in.....can this be done with the C7 as well?
Im no novice to engine work and could work my way through it. But admittedly, it will save a lot of time instead of having to learn what has to be reomved or taken out of the way as i go. And i thank you in advance.
If i was not doing the bottom end, it looks like just a regular DOD cam swap could be done in car pretty easily. I just read about a fabbed up cross brace so you can lower the cradle just enough to remove the pan for the chain removal. On my LS motors i just loosened the lower mount strut and put spacers in.....can this be done with the C7 as well?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 495
Likes: 51
From: Woodlands Texas
I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 495
Likes: 51
From: Woodlands Texas
Found it!
Thanks!
Doesn't seem too bad. Little more than my G8. Cold have that out in about 2 hours after the second time.
Did GM make the harness connections sectional for a cradle drop? Or would you still have to take them completely off the block?
Thanks!
Doesn't seem too bad. Little more than my G8. Cold have that out in about 2 hours after the second time.
Did GM make the harness connections sectional for a cradle drop? Or would you still have to take them completely off the block?
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I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 8,729
Likes: 1,505
From: Redmond WA
I'm saying removing the engine from an $80,000 car while saving $300 on the detailed instructions on how to actually do it is false economy.
I'd still refer to the How To guides here as well for the perspective of people who've actually done it, of course.
I stand by that assertion.
Last edited by davepl; Nov 5, 2017 at 12:34 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: East Tennessee
I'm not saying anything is impossible. Anything is possible, more or less.
I'm saying removing the engine from an $80,000 car while saving $300 on the detailed instructions on how to actually do it is false economy.
I'd still refer to the How To guides here as well for the perspective of people who've actually done it, of course.
I stand by that assertion.
I'm saying removing the engine from an $80,000 car while saving $300 on the detailed instructions on how to actually do it is false economy.
I'd still refer to the How To guides here as well for the perspective of people who've actually done it, of course.
I stand by that assertion.
I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Im sorta in the same mind set. I want to cam the car, but with only 1600 miles on the car im very uneasy. I have always done my own work, built many fast cars and Harleys...but this is different. I think im more concerned with messing up the paint on the car. No matter how much you think you are protecting the car, you manage to scratch or hit something. With $75 grand at stake.....hmmm
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 495
Likes: 51
From: Woodlands Texas
Same here.
There is plenty of room to pull it out of the top. It's not that bad. A few transmission bolts are the hardest part. Just purchase an engine leveler and it will be fine. I only had my car 3 weeks before the engine came out. On #3 now. One thing to save hardship i did the second time was to cut my exhaust manifolds right below the flange with a reciprocating saw since headers were going to be used.
There is plenty of room to pull it out of the top. It's not that bad. A few transmission bolts are the hardest part. Just purchase an engine leveler and it will be fine. I only had my car 3 weeks before the engine came out. On #3 now. One thing to save hardship i did the second time was to cut my exhaust manifolds right below the flange with a reciprocating saw since headers were going to be used.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,294
Likes: 952
From: in the country North Carolina
I have to agree with FYREANT he's done a lot of how to's and he's helped out with questions others have had, me for one, on things that he hasn't written how to's on. His instructions are better than the factory manuals and I have them.
I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,294
Likes: 952
From: in the country North Carolina
I don't give compliment out easily and certainly not if they're not deserved. I appreciate your work brother.
I'm Batman..
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 6,142
Likes: 920
From: Lehigh Acres FL
Tech Contributor
Ant