Dying battery early C7
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Dying battery early C7
Have any early C7 owner's needed to replace their 12v. battery yet. I've always "float charged" my 1-14 date delivery Z-51 but I'm having fob / starting issues and suspect a weak / dying battery. Any suggestions out there? Thanks, Rusty
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,352
Likes: 716
From: Terrell North Carolina
I really did not need to replace my battery in 2016 Z, but the OE battery is weak, so I changed it out & put in a AGM battery. I never have liked the idea of the battery in the rear in case of a acid leak, with a AGM battery, that will never be a issue. Just my OCD makes me do those things.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 6,516
Likes: 1,303
From: Windermere FL
There are many threads, so search is your friend.
That being said, you can remove the battery but you will need a battery strap to get it out since GM did not provide any handles. Many threads with pictures and instructions.
You can take it to your favorite auto parts store and they will test it. I found that AutoZone and Advance Auto sell direct exact fit AGM batteries that are good. All these batteries are made by the same manufacturer. They just slap different labels and warrenties on them at the end of the line. Some like the Sears AGM battery if you have a Sears near you. Eddy Lambert with his mismanagement closed them all in my area. You can price shop and sometimes order it online with a discount code and go pick it up. BTW - the AGM replacement batteries seem to come with handles so it is easier to R&R, unlike the Delco battery.
Mine did not last 2 years when I got a dead cell.
Make sure you reinstall that small vent hose - the replacement will have a barb for it.
That being said, you can remove the battery but you will need a battery strap to get it out since GM did not provide any handles. Many threads with pictures and instructions.
You can take it to your favorite auto parts store and they will test it. I found that AutoZone and Advance Auto sell direct exact fit AGM batteries that are good. All these batteries are made by the same manufacturer. They just slap different labels and warrenties on them at the end of the line. Some like the Sears AGM battery if you have a Sears near you. Eddy Lambert with his mismanagement closed them all in my area. You can price shop and sometimes order it online with a discount code and go pick it up. BTW - the AGM replacement batteries seem to come with handles so it is easier to R&R, unlike the Delco battery.
Mine did not last 2 years when I got a dead cell.
Make sure you reinstall that small vent hose - the replacement will have a barb for it.
Last edited by Flame Red; Nov 22, 2017 at 03:39 PM.
Moderator emeritus
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 18,599
Likes: 3,951
From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Early 2014 here and yes I had to replace my battery. I got the dreaded "slow to crank" after I parked the car and needed to move it. I put in a new diehard. Your FOB batteries need to be replaced too.
Car battery info:
Sears: Die Hard AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat)
Description Item # 02850748000P Model # 50748
Sears Diehard is size G48; Their Model 50748
Elmer
Car battery info:
Sears: Die Hard AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat)
Description Item # 02850748000P Model # 50748
Sears Diehard is size G48; Their Model 50748
Elmer
Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Nov 22, 2017 at 04:00 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,486
Likes: 1,659
From: Las Vegas NV
Just replaced my 3 year old OEM battery in my 2014.
I was noticing that I would occasionally get a slow crank, so I proactively changed it out with a Duralast AGM from AutoZone before it had the chance to strand me. I used to use ONLY DieHard, but with Sears becoming harder to find as they close their stores 1 by 1, I made the switch to Duralast. I'm not confident they'll have a store near me in 3 years!
Here in the desert SW, 3 years is about average battery life. Not worth pushing it just to try to save a few bucks. Modern batteries have a way of jumping from 'started ok this morning' to 'dead as a doornail' at the most inconvenient times, so I change them out at the first sign of trouble.
I was noticing that I would occasionally get a slow crank, so I proactively changed it out with a Duralast AGM from AutoZone before it had the chance to strand me. I used to use ONLY DieHard, but with Sears becoming harder to find as they close their stores 1 by 1, I made the switch to Duralast. I'm not confident they'll have a store near me in 3 years!
Here in the desert SW, 3 years is about average battery life. Not worth pushing it just to try to save a few bucks. Modern batteries have a way of jumping from 'started ok this morning' to 'dead as a doornail' at the most inconvenient times, so I change them out at the first sign of trouble.
Last edited by Kent1999; Nov 22, 2017 at 07:27 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,226
Likes: 1,029
From: Thomas Texas
Replaced my first month of production 2014 battery about 3 months ago with an Interstate. Perfect Fit. I don't believe the expensive AGM batteries are worth the extra cost. The Vin is #029xx.
What was strange when the original AC Delco battery went bad, it threw a bunch of unrelated Check Engine codes and the analogue gauge needles went up and down wildly. The electronics rely on voltage somewhere between 10v and 15v, so if it drops to about 10v or lower, the ECU sees a low voltage from a long list of sensors and is programmed to report a fault and resulting CEL on the dash. So don't freak out if the code is about the rear axle or MAF.
So it was obvious one of the battery cells shorted out. Car only had 19k miles and 98% of the time it was on a Ctek charger. My experience has been 4 years is about all you can expect on the original battery, so if you are near that, schedule a convenient time to buy a new battery before it fails.
What was strange when the original AC Delco battery went bad, it threw a bunch of unrelated Check Engine codes and the analogue gauge needles went up and down wildly. The electronics rely on voltage somewhere between 10v and 15v, so if it drops to about 10v or lower, the ECU sees a low voltage from a long list of sensors and is programmed to report a fault and resulting CEL on the dash. So don't freak out if the code is about the rear axle or MAF.
So it was obvious one of the battery cells shorted out. Car only had 19k miles and 98% of the time it was on a Ctek charger. My experience has been 4 years is about all you can expect on the original battery, so if you are near that, schedule a convenient time to buy a new battery before it fails.
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2015
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 2,226
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From: Thomas Texas
I believe...this is my opinion...AGM are not worth the extra cost. Sorry, I don't think I need to present any other facts other than AGM batteries cost significantly more than a lead-acid battery. I am sure the buyers of AGM batteries are happy with paying the additional cost. I am not. Call me cheap. I am satisfied with 4 years out of regular battery then replace it with a new one.
The only thing I look for is a 30 month 100% replacement guarantee.
**********EDIT************************** **********
Found this article:
https://community.cartalk.com/t/bewa...-battery/89080
Last edited by RussM05; Nov 25, 2017 at 12:17 PM.