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Twice now the rear hatch on our 2015 Z06 wouldn't release. Tonight at the grocery store in the rain, go figure. Had to load the grocery's through the rear seat. Had to drive home with it un-latched (hatch open indicator on and rear lights on) but unable to open. I tried several times to open using the hidden button and I could hear it activating the latch but it wouldn't pop up enough to get a finger under it. I grabbed a plastic pry bar and tried prying in the center near the latch while hitting the button but no release. I moved to the left side and pried against the quarter panel. I had to pry really hard and it finally released along with a sticking sound of the seal. The latch was release the whole time but the seal had stuck itself to the hatch! Same thing happened the first time it stuck. Both times the hatch hadn't been opened to a couple of weeks. I lubricated the seal with armor-all to see if it cures the problem. I also lubricated the latch with spray lithium but I really don't think the latch is the problem. Any one else have this problem?
We have not had a similar problem, but note that GM had a bulletin about squeaking creaking targa tops on the C6, and specifically recommended against using Armor-All on the weatherstripping, I can't recall what problems it was supposed to cause. For a while they recommended the paste (not spray!) version of Super Lube, but that would turn into a sticky gooey mess after a year. Current recommendation for the C7 is dielectric silicone grease which is cheap and works well but could stain your clothes if you rub it, or their special weatherstrip lube that also works well but costs a fortune.
I have the same problem with my rear hatch. When the temps are low, I can hear it release, but it only goes up a quarter inch and then it auto latches closed.
Annoying. Im planning to take the interior panels off to see if it can be adjusted.
We have not had a similar problem, but note that GM had a bulletin about squeaking creaking targa tops on the C6, and specifically recommended against using Armor-All on the weatherstripping, I can't recall what problems it was supposed to cause. For a while they recommended the paste (not spray!) version of Super Lube, but that would turn into a sticky gooey mess after a year. Current recommendation for the C7 is dielectric silicone grease which is cheap and works well but could stain your clothes if you rub it, or their special weatherstrip lube that also works well but costs a fortune.
Thanks Jim. The jury is still out whether or not the armor all will help the sticking part of the problem. The removable top was making a creaking problem too but the noise wasn't coming from the seal. I lightly lubricated the locating pins and latches with some Belray waterproof grease which is synthetic (great for dirt-bike bearings) about 2 months ago and it's still quiet.
I have the same problem with my rear hatch. When the temps are low, I can hear it release, but it only goes up a quarter inch and then it auto latches closed.
Annoying. Im planning to take the interior panels off to see if it can be adjusted.
That's what mine is doing but it's not the latch. You might make sure the seal isn't sticking by using a plastic pry bar like I did.
On another note, I did notice that the latch has a rubber coating where it makes contact with the hook on the hatch and mine is partially wore through. I think that is there to eliminate any metal on metal squeaking that could occur.
i have this issue on my ‘14. i took it to the dealer and they said the rear hatch lift bracket needs to be replaced. they want over $600 to replace a lift bracket that can be bought for $59 from gmpartsdirect. naturally, my gm extended warranty doesn’t cover brackets. trying to find someone who has changed the bracket to find out what is involved with making the repair. so far no luck. btw, tried the silicone lube thing and it worked for awhile but no longer.
i have this issue on my ‘14. i took it to the dealer and they said the rear hatch lift bracket needs to be replaced. they want over $600 to replace a lift bracket that can be bought for $59 from gmpartsdirect. naturally, my gm extended warranty doesn’t cover brackets. trying to find someone who has changed the bracket to find out what is involved with making the repair. so far no luck. btw, tried the silicone lube thing and it worked for awhile but no longer.
I found a trick to get it open, by accident, after unlatching with button close the door with the windows up and the air pressure will pop it up.
I found a trick to get it open, by accident, after unlatching with button close the door with the windows up and the air pressure will pop it up.
thx, i’ll give that a try. may not work though because my hatch is misaligned. i think that is why the lift bracket failed in the first place. just a theory.
ride close door with windows up thing and it didn’t work. because my hatch is misaligned, the one edge is providing enough friction to keep the hatch from popping up enough to open it. need to realign the hatch but have no clue how to do it.
Usually but not always, a bit of looking and thinking about the problem will help you understand how to do the adjustment If not, a body shop that has worked on C7's should be able to do the adjustment quickly and (relatively) cheaply, if it's merely a misalignment and not something bigger.
Do you think the bracket which the dealer wants to charge so much for, is actually ok and aligning the hatch will fix everything?
Usually but not always, a bit of looking and thinking about the problem will help you understand how to do the adjustment If not, a body shop that has worked on C7's should be able to do the adjustment quickly and (relatively) cheaply, if it's merely a misalignment and not something bigger.
Do you think the bracket which the dealer wants to charge so much for, is actually ok and aligning the hatch will fix everything?
Or has the car ever been hit?
i bought the car from a close friend. i’ve known the car since he bought it new. it has not been hit. i think the lift window bracket is damaged as it no longer functions. but i think the misalignment caused it to fail over time. that’s why i need to adjust the hatch first. right now when opening, it the rear passenger side hatch edge rubs slightly on the rear deck keeping it from popping up at all. here’s pics at of the hatch edge and the gap between drivers and passenger side. note the drivers side (second pic) is wider.
....GM.....specifically recommended against using Armor-All on the weatherstripping, I can't recall what problems it was supposed to cause. For a while they recommended the paste (not spray!) version of Super Lube, but that would turn into a sticky gooey mess after a year. Current recommendation for the C7 is dielectric silicone.
Originally Posted by Jon Evans
Thanks Jim. The jury is still out whether or not the armor all will help the sticking part of the problem.
The jury is back from deliberation, after a very short time! Gave up on Armor-All for my tires years ago, sticky stuff on some products.
I bought a dielectric grease designed for the purpose of lubing seals from Amazon. Use sparingly!
why dielectric grease? why would it need to conduct electricity?
GM says use a dialectic, which is silicon but it doesn't conduct electricity! I bought a product recommended on the forum called Gummi Pflege Stift, it is petroleum free. It is from German and all I can read is it's hazardous statement that says can cause eye injury! Feels slippery!
Funny after this Thread I used it. Bought some time ago and said I would after a year-it's now a year! Interesting applicator. Just squeeze the bottle and it soaks the sponge on top. I put it on heavy and wiped excess it with a paper towel. I let it dry as recommended but only for 15 minutes. Appears fine.
This is want it says about it on Amazon:
Size: 3.4 fl oz
Conditions all weather seals around doors, hood and trunk
Temperature resistant for long-lasting protection
Prevents rubber from drying and cracking
With built-in foam applicator for easy application
Made in Germany