itch808

I'm looking for a set of rear tie rods. Can any owners of either of these comment on quality or any issues?

BELVIN20

I have the Granatelli on 2016 Z for about a year & I am very satisfied with the alignment adjustments I get with the links.

TumblingPanda

+1 for the Granatelli links with the AMT locking hardware. I haven't tried others but these get you the typical track alignment specs. They seem very well built, including the locking hardware.

Dane@LGmotorsports

Any of the three are better than factory. I hadn't seen the weapon x design until now, curious as to if there is any deflection with the ball joint style mount. Granatelli design is similar to ours. We have offset blocks that can be changed to move the mount location in a bit if you lower the car on bolts, with drop spindles or with coilovers. I have a lot of customers running ours with no issue. Jordan Priestly (JDP Motorsports) uses our on his car. We have them in stock, feel free to give me a call to talk further.

Thanks!

Ben@WeaponX

I can't speak to the others; however, the addition of ours reduced my 60' by over a TENTH on my C7 ZR1! I've cut a best of 1.44, so needless to say, they work like a charm This is the same design we've used on our CTSV3, ATSV1, and Cam6 ZL1 setups and our record setting CTSV3 is cutting mid 1.3s using them

badhabit_wb

I've got the Granatelli's with the AMT blocks and they work great. Highly recommend them over the factory ones. If you want to maximize your camber for the track the stock ones don't allow enough adjustment.

GSpeed

The Toe links allow you to gain the toe you need. There is no way that a tie rod would help decrease the 60', unless the alignment was incorrect to start. The stock part doesnt flex, doesnt bind, and actually does it job well when with in the limits of the stock alignment.

To clarify, the purpose of these toe rods is to help you achieve the proper toe, WHEN YOU ADD CAMBER. The stock eccentric maxes out, and you are left juggling the alignment shims to get where you need to go. You can do it with out it, but the eccentric is maxed out, and you have nothing left.

badhabit_wb

Exactly. With the stock ones if you get the negative camber where you want it you'll never get the toe right.

Ben@WeaponX

Thanks for the attempted lesson; however, to clarify lol you are incorrect. The additional alignment is a great benefit and the point for some, however; it is certainly not the only benefit. The rubber OEM bushings allow for more deflection on the launch.



During the launch, the rear wheels tip inward on the forward side as well as inward on top. The removal of the rubber bushings with the rod end greatly reduces the forward side tip in as well.

123sugey

Z06Brucey

I don't any of these but I have the Carlyle Racing rear toe arms, they seem good quality and aligned easy.

https://www.carlyleracing.com/produc...able-toe-arms/

k24556

Those look just like the Granatelli's. I have a set and from an alignment standpoint, getting camber where you want it, and caster too is easy. You flat run out of range with the OEM's.

The only complaint with the Grannies I might have is that the jam nut on the wheel side is impossible to tighten without a crow's foot, and even with a Crow's foot, you run the risk of scratching the barrel of the wheel. Lucky for me, my good friend BELVIN gave me a Crow's foot the right size. Thanks!

It would be a better design to move that adjustment to the center of the shaft so both sides could be tightened easily. Yea, then GM has to have the parking brake cable right there too.

Oh4GTO

What is the camber limit with stock toe links?
I ran -2.0 out back last summer and don't need more yet.

k24556

The OM says the rear camber for track is-2.0. I went to the Granny's because I couldn't get -2.0 AND the optimum caster setting at the same time. Besides it takes a bunch of fiddlin' time to get even close with OEM links. With the Granny's (except for tightening) you just adjust your camber then fiddle with the two eccentrics to keep the camber at the desired setting and get caster. With the Granny's you can get 0 caster pretty easy.

Most dealers DO NOT have a tech that knows the what and how for rear caster. So they will tell you you have it and it might be an itty-bitty fib. Of course the dealers would NEVER tolerate that

Removing the shim washers is good for about +/- 0.4 camber. I run -1.0 camber for the street and -2.0 for the track. For the street, i make sure I have 0 toe (not quite as fussy about rear caster for the street). AT -1 rear I get perfect centered wear on the rear tires The front camber, I run -2.2 track, -1.1 street and a pinch or toe out front and a pinch of toe in rear. Toe for street front is set to 0. Again for me and my driving style these settings, along with proper tire pressure give me pretty good wear. When I go to a new track and see corner wear particularly on the outside, The first thing I look for is me turning in too early on some turns. Watching the PDR video definitely call out your driving!!!!!

itch808

Thanks all for the responses. Was going to try LG's based on the responses about adjustability of Granatelli, but shipping kills it ($120+ to Hawaii). With AMT's sale, seems like a no brainier.

Dane@LGmotorsports

We have free shipping for Black Friday!

robert miller

I agree good little diff in my old c5 using them. But I had the LG set up in it. Robert

HorsePower Junkie

Adjustable rear links only needed for racing specs? ...and not necessary for street specs?


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GSpeed

Which island? Happy to deliver for LG after christmas at no charge if you have not bought yet. We have family on Oahu in Nuuanu and Manoa.