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Lowering coolant temps - currently 220

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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 06:52 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Silverboost
The oem fan is different on the 14s also. You can buy the 15 up oem fan for about $200 on rock auto. It's basically just a higher amperage motor Gm started using when the Z06 came out.
What does the higher wattage fan do? will you get more CFM? or run at a higher RPM?

Last edited by phantom1; Jan 22, 2019 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2019 | 09:33 PM
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FWIW, my '14 Z51 never went over 215, and that was in 112 degree ambient heat (Needles, CA in early September!). Even with A/C on, around town in 90 degree temps, it always hung around 195 - 200 tops. Most of the time, it hung around 189.

I notice my '19 GS seems to "wander" around 192 - 202, even at idle....weird

Last edited by KenHorse; Jan 22, 2019 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 01:53 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by FYREANT
Jim, not sure if you have to worry about freezing temps where you are but my formula is 20% dexcool, 80% distilled water, 1 bottle of water wetter. My car (before I took it apart) was running about 165* at cruising and would peak at about 190-200 max sitting in traffic and would immediately cool down again upon starting to move. I also have an LMR 160 stat and housing in mine.
Were seeing temps of about -5c here in the U.K. right now so I’m guessing that I still need a fairly high % of dexcool - but I don’t know white how much as I can’t seem to find a chart anywhere.

Also I’m no scientist, but with ambient temps at -5, isn’t it possible that an aluminium block could be even colder than that?

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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms


Were seeing temps of about -5c here in the U.K. right now so I’m guessing that I still need a fairly high % of dexcool - but I don’t know white how much as I can’t seem to find a chart anywhere.

Also I’m no scientist, but with ambient temps at -5, isn’t it possible that an aluminium block could be even colder than that?

Yea thats why I said I wasn’t sure if you had to deal with freezing temps or not. In that case, you need some heat for sure..
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by FYREANT

Yea thats why I said I wasn’t sure if you had to deal with freezing temps or not. In that case, you need some heat for sure..
I'm tempted to try 65/35 and a bottle of water wetter. I can't see that freezing solid to the point of expansion until well into the negatives? Even if it goes slushy, I wont be driving the car until the weather gets much better..
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 08:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by phantom1
What does the higher wattage fan do? will you get more CFM? or run at a higher RPM?
Actually both it pulls more cfm because it runs at a higher cfm. I noticed a difference with temps In low speed stop and go traffic situations.
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms


Were seeing temps of about -5c here in the U.K. right now so I’m guessing that I still need a fairly high % of dexcool - but I don’t know white how much as I can’t seem to find a chart anywhere.

Also I’m no scientist, but with ambient temps at -5, isn’t it possible that an aluminium block could be even colder than that?


http://www.magers.org/handy/antifreeze.html
I pulled this up with a google search. -5°C is 23°F. I'd mix it for temperatures a little lower than what you're expecting just in case it gets a bit colder.

The block won't get any colder than the ambient temp, but it will cool down to ambient temp a bit faster than an iron block would.

Last edited by Sellout; Jan 23, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jimxms
I'm tempted to try 65/35 and a bottle of water wetter. I can't see that freezing solid to the point of expansion until well into the negatives? Even if it goes slushy, I wont be driving the car until the weather gets much better..
You won't see a difference. I went from the 60/40 stock to close to 80/20 and I can't tell a difference on track
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Old Jan 23, 2019 | 10:22 AM
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What mods do you have done? We want to make sure that 220 is normal for what you got.
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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverboost
Actually both it pulls more cfm because it runs at a higher cfm. I noticed a difference with temps In low speed stop and go traffic situations.
I asked because I plan on turning up the stock Fan. Will changing to a 600 watt Fan alone pull more CFM, or does it need adjusted in the tune?

Last edited by phantom1; Jan 26, 2019 at 12:31 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 04:47 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by phantom1
I asked because I plan on turning up the stock Fan. Will changing to a 600 watt Fan alone pull more CFM, or does it need adjusted in the tune?
The new fan will definitely pull more CFM. I was tuned with the stock fan and would have times when it was really hot outside and when I cut the car off the fan would keep running because of the temp. My tune could not adjust it to make it quit. When I switched to the new fan everything works fine.
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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Silverboost
The new fan will definitely pull more CFM. I was tuned with the stock fan and would have times when it was really hot outside and when I cut the car off the fan would keep running because of the temp. My tune could not adjust it to make it quit. When I switched to the new fan everything works fine.
I'll give it a shot.

Thanks

Last edited by phantom1; Jan 27, 2019 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2019 | 02:08 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by jimxms


Were seeing temps of about -5c here in the U.K. right now so I’m guessing that I still need a fairly high % of dexcool - but I don’t know white how much as I can’t seem to find a chart anywhere.

Also I’m no scientist, but with ambient temps at -5, isn’t it possible that an aluminium block could be even colder than that?

The ratio you need is listed right on the anti-freeze jugs. Also, a quality tester should be in your tool chest.
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Old Feb 2, 2019 | 11:15 PM
  #34  
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I purchased a Mishimoto 160 deg T-stat after having several others from Linginfelder and Summit fail after a few weeks The Mishimoto T-stat looks exactly like the factory T-stat, as it has a compressed seal between two pieces of metal. After I again had temp issues with my 15' Z-51, I pulled the Mishimoto T-stat and the seal had disappeared. Found it when I reached into the T-stat housing with my finger. So..either the one I bought was defective or the seal wasn't secured the same as the stock T-stat seal, even though it looked identical. So.. I don't see a simple solution if you encounter below freezing temps. ( see below for a possible option)

I have a couple Pontiac G8's (Holden Commodores). Some people that have them reduced the engine temps by drilling some holes in the T-stat to allow leakage which reduced the effective temp of the the engine coolant in normal driving conditions. However, a t-stat won't lower your engine coolant temp if you load the engine for long periods of time, like if your tracking your car. I believe drilling a couple 1/8" holes is what most did.

Interesting - I now have 2 C7's. My 15' runs about 15 - 20 degrees hotter than the 16'.

Good luck!
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 05:06 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by phantom1
I'll give it a shot.

Thanks
I bought the Fan and ready to install it. Does anyone know if the 600 watt fan will make a difference without a tune? or will I need to adjust the fan control in the tune?
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 05:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by phantom1
I bought the Fan and ready to install it. Does anyone know if the 600 watt fan will make a difference without a tune? or will I need to adjust the fan control in the tune?
Give it a shot as is, then if it makes no difference go to the tune.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 07:10 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by C7/Z06 Man
Give it a shot as is, then if it makes no difference go to the tune.
I am, just wondering what to expect.

Thanks
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 07:57 PM
  #38  
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why not just do the upgrades that the Chevy engineers used to improve cooling in later model years.
The auxiliary fan was added in 2017 MY and is a relatively easy install assuming you have the manual tranny.
And look at the 600 watt fan which I think was added to 2015 and up Z51.
Both are now OEM parts, readily available from GM performance parts and proven to work.. Have your tuner adjust the fan speeds and that may be all you need.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 08:05 PM
  #39  
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The fan is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is reading the temperature.
It will simply ask for less of the fan than the stock fan. No tune is required for the 2015 Z06 fan when installed in the 2014.

I have the Z06 fan for another reason. Some of the 14 fans were failing to come on for certain conditions and causing overheating. It was fixed by getting the Z06 fan. It took less than an hour to do.

Thread with fan replacement instructions.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-260-a.html

Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Feb 15, 2019 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:08 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
The fan is controlled by the ECM. The ECM is reading the temperature.
It will simply ask for less of the fan than the stock fan. No tune is required for the 2015 Z06 fan when installed in the 2014.

I have the Z06 fan for another reason. Some of the 14 fans were failing to come on for certain conditions and causing overheating. It was fixed by getting the Z06 fan. It took less than an hour to do.

Thread with fan replacement instructions.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-to-260-a.html

Elmer
That's what I was trying to figure out. If the stock tune is set at 196 degrees, so either fan won't make a difference until its tuned. Darn it, I should've adjusted the fan setting before I bought the Z06 fan.

Thanks

Last edited by phantom1; Feb 16, 2019 at 09:46 PM.
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