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@Cajun TurboZ they shut down the boat ramps here on the east coast I was out yesterday and it was a mob scene as everyone is already getting cabin fever. Weather was perfect too!
Nice work! To test everything out I'm sure you are just plugging in the controls. Are you ending up with any faults or issues since other things are still disconnected? Did you also change the lighting on the control **** or was that already blue and red? I can't remember since mine is all apart right now. BTW, it is my understanding the LED's only go one direction. It is hard to see other than some markings on each side. Do the new ones correspond with the same marks so they are oriented the right way? My new ones aren't here yet is why I ask.
Nice work! To test everything out I'm sure you are just plugging in the controls. Are you ending up with any faults or issues since other things are still disconnected? Did you also change the lighting on the control **** or was that already blue and red? I can't remember since mine is all apart right now. BTW, it is my understanding the LED's only go one direction. It is hard to see other than some markings on each side. Do the new ones correspond with the same marks so they are oriented the right way? My new ones aren't here yet is why I ask.
I only swapped the heated/vented seat LEDs and the A/C LED, that's it. I haven't noticed any issues with starting the car while some interior pieces are missing. I do have the steering wheel airbag connected, even though the steering wheel is missing the silver trim and I had to remove the airbag to access it. If you power up the car with the airbag disconnected, you'll get an SRS fault and I'm pretty sure that requires a trip to the dealer to reset, a simple battery disconnect won't clear it.
LEDs are directional, that's correct. It's a diode, after all, and diodes only let current flow one direction. I couldn't find any indicators for cathode and anode on the stock LEDs, so I did some testing with my multimeter and a power supply to determine which side was which. I can't remember what the orientation was, so I can't help you there, but I do remember that every LED had the same orientation, so once you figure one of them out, you got them all. Good luck.
Finished my MGW today, didn't want to start separate thread will all the others but it is a great mod. Easy to add, great feeling, smooth precise.
Great piece Now on to the rest of the list
I replaced the factory taillights on my Z51 with a set of Z06 taillights. I'm not trying to pretend I have a Z06, I just think the clear taillights look better with the Arctic White paint than the red ones do.
New Texas Speed 416 stroker going in with new VR Stage 3 cam, LME Billet VVT delete, Johnson slow leakdown link bar lifters, TS Dual .660 springs with concave/convex titanium retainers and patent pending valve stem seals, new oil pump, all going to be fed with my F1A-94 @ 22 psi (ATI Dampener + DSX lower + GripTec Adjustable Upper) + Crawford Port Injection through a Mantic triple disk clutch. Using ARP fasteners (heads, rockers, flywheel, timing cover, rod botls, main caps, and header studs). Should be a beast I am doing final engine assembly this week I have videos explaining everything, lapping valves, installing springs, checking pushrod length, lash cap adjustment for HPFP, clutch install, engine install, procharger install, did my best to give back to our community will post them here when I'm all done, hopefully by end of week.
Johnson slow leakdown link bar lifters Old LT4 engine out engine bay cleaned and ready for the new 416ci stroker + F1A-94 + Crawford Holley Port Injection LME billet VVT delete Cover Texas Speed fully built 416 stroker (billet internals) Stage 3 VR cam installed on new 416. Triple Disk
That's one heck of a build! The mantic triple is a great clutch but double check that you have the right measurements. There were some issues in the paperwork provided from them contradicting each other. I installed one that went really well but it took a while to get the right information.
I swapped out the stock brake pads for Powerstop Z26 pads. Goodbye brake dust
Cleaned off the rotors with scotchbright pads and did the bedding process as per instructions which came with the pads.
Initial bite is a little less than the stock pads, but actual stopping power is about the same (based on test stops done before and after the swap).
Dust is non-existent but only have about a 100 miles on them, so we'll see (the stock pads seemed to dust the wheels by the end of the street).
Took a couple of hours since I had never done a C7 (let alone a ZO6) before, but I could do it now in under an hour I'm sure and this is with a jack and jack stands.
Very satisfied especially when you compare the price vs. Stock, KNS, Carbotech, etc.
I was out yesterday and it was a mob scene as everyone is already getting cabin fever. Weather was perfect too!
