Here is another tip, take all your measurements before you jack up the car and write down the numbers for camber and caster on each wheel. Then figure out what you want to end up with plus a target for the amount you need to change each angle to get there. Don't forget to measure you garage floor and calculate the error for the floor.

Here is an example (not showing floor error):

Left Rear Camber start is -0.6, desired angle is -1.5, therefore change required is -0.9 degrees
Left Rear Caster start is +1.0, desired is +0.7, therefore change required is -0.3 degrees
Right Rear Camber start is -0.8, desired angle is -1.5, therefore change required is -0.7 degrees
Left Rear Caster start is +0.1, desired is +0.7, therefore change required is +0.6 degrees

Then jack up the car and put it on jack stands. The angles will all change with the car jacked up, but since you already determined the amount each angle needs to change, you can adjust them relative to the hanging angles.

To do that, remeasure all the angles while the car is up on jacks and the suspension is hanging down. Write down these values and add on the change you calculated in the first step to get your target values. Then do all your adjusting based on those calculated target values. When you get done, lower the car and drive it around to settle the suspension, and then you can remeasure and see if you got close enough. This will not be exact because the suspension does not work in a perfectly linear fashion, but it will be pretty close. If it is not close enough, repeat the process and you should be getting real close to perfect.

 

Got my new digital level today. Digi-Pas DWL280PRO for $53 at Amazon. It is awesome! I am running it through some accuracy testing and it exceeds my expectations! Can't wait to try it out aligning my car again.

 

I've just stuck a block of wood across with a digital angle reader

 

Completed mine today.

Used this gauge These pins
The caster surprisingly was not very far off considering I had cranked in a lot of camber per the DSC track specs. Neither the front or rear caster had ever been adjusted before. Tweaked it a little and got all the readings within 0.1 degrees. If you breathe on anything it changes that much so basically we're spot on. That was end of day so haven't had a change to drive yet. Looking forward to it. You're right it can be a little frustrating as one adjustment changes another, but you can get there.

The pins above are 1/4" diameter. It was a bit of a struggle to insert them. I think the correct pin would be 6mm, not 1/4" that I bought. If you are going to pursue this method I would buy these:

 

I used 1/4 diameter steel shaft to make my pins. I measured the shaft and it was right on 0.250" And they were just a bit too tight in the upright holes like you said.

So I chucked them in the drill press and hit them with some 240 wet or dry. Just went up about 3/4" so they would fit in the holes better. They measured 0.248" after sanding. They fit great in the holes now. 6mm pins would only be 0.236" so they would be too small.

I am assuming you realigned rear toe / thrust angle after setting camber / caster. What do you use to measure toe / thrust angle? I made some really cool alignment tools for that purpose. I used 1.25" x 1/8" wall 6061 square tubing 3 ft long and built mounts to add laser rifle sights to the tubes. These work fantastic and you can set toe / thrust angle extremely precisely.

 

Yes all settings were checked including thrust angle. I am at a repair shop we have a 4 post drive on rack with full measuring system so I can easily do a full alignment. Of course that requires equipment that costs about as much as a nice used C7, plus a dedicated bay to house it. Even with that I could not read C7 rear caster until you showed me how!

 

Good deal. Please let us know how it drives with the new alignment. I will be running an autocross sunday to see how mine does. I hope I did not make it worse by adding more rear negative camber!!!!

I have -2.4 deg front camber, +7.5 front caster and zero toe. I had -0.6 rear camber before but i changed it to -1.3 and set the caster to +0.7 with zero toe. Car drove great before, but I wanted to keep rear tire wear a bit more even is the reason I put in more neg rear camber. I will have a bunch of eyes on me since I got 1st place / FTD at the last event......